SNOWRULES
New member
mrviper I have a
98 SRX 700
192 1" studs, stock 3/4 inch track
Adjustable transfer rods
Heel Clicker clutch kit, 48/40 advant edge helix
Green secondary spring set at 70 degrees
Carbontech reeds
Custom cold air kit
2 base gaskets added, 0.030" shaved off the heads
I was going to try grass dragging for the first time just wanted any advice you could give me for 550 feet. Starting line is hard packed dirt not clay. I have my primary setup with about 5g in the tip middle empty and 4.6 in the heel. It was hitting perfect rpm in the winter and pulled like a freight train should I leave it as is and just rejet for the temp or should I change anything else? As for jetting what would you suggest for sea level - 500 feet and 25 degrees celcius? your advice would be much apreciated. Thanks
98 SRX 700
192 1" studs, stock 3/4 inch track
Adjustable transfer rods
Heel Clicker clutch kit, 48/40 advant edge helix
Green secondary spring set at 70 degrees
Carbontech reeds
Custom cold air kit
2 base gaskets added, 0.030" shaved off the heads
I was going to try grass dragging for the first time just wanted any advice you could give me for 550 feet. Starting line is hard packed dirt not clay. I have my primary setup with about 5g in the tip middle empty and 4.6 in the heel. It was hitting perfect rpm in the winter and pulled like a freight train should I leave it as is and just rejet for the temp or should I change anything else? As for jetting what would you suggest for sea level - 500 feet and 25 degrees celcius? your advice would be much apreciated. Thanks
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
lower the sled down by taking off spring tension in front shocks, lower the rear by backing off the rear(big shock) till you only show 1 " of thread left, tighten the front (short)up slightly, tighten up front limiter straps about 2 inchs, on the older srx, sometimes ya need to drill a new hole in strap to get it low enuff. A easy way to do this by yourself is to get a peice of 4x6 wooden block or something about the size and then place the front of the skidframe on the block, meaning lift up back of sled and place the front arm area on top of the block, the weight of the sled will compress the front suspension for you. Now, the trick is to shim the BOTTOM of the rear transfer rods, this will get the rear skid to sit flat on the ground and help draw the rear down even more. I have many times removed the top plastic shim and used it on the bottom stacked up with the original shim, then you have no shim on top and a wider gap, which helps it transfer better weight on take off. You dont want the rear wheels when sitting on your garage floor to be 3-4 inchs off the ground, you can also play with the front shock height to get this perfect. thats your basic suspension set up.
gear the sled around 21/41, 70 link chain =1.95 ratio
main jets for summer-135 all 3, pilot jets 47.5 with fuel screws at 1.75 turns out from seated.
As far as the h/c set up,gonna want about 8100rpm out of the hole and for about 175feet, then it should climb slightly to about 83-8400rpm tops by the finish.
list how your weights are set up, also go out and run the sled as is after you get suspenion and stuff set up and watch the tach and then tell me what rpm it engaes, out of the start rpm, then finish rpm.
gear the sled around 21/41, 70 link chain =1.95 ratio
main jets for summer-135 all 3, pilot jets 47.5 with fuel screws at 1.75 turns out from seated.
As far as the h/c set up,gonna want about 8100rpm out of the hole and for about 175feet, then it should climb slightly to about 83-8400rpm tops by the finish.
list how your weights are set up, also go out and run the sled as is after you get suspenion and stuff set up and watch the tach and then tell me what rpm it engaes, out of the start rpm, then finish rpm.
SNOWRULES
New member
thanks for the info mrviper. when you say tighten the limiter straps down 2 inches do you mean starting from the full loose position? as for front shock stiffness how much thread should show? i weigh about 165 if that helps.
Turk
TY TECH ADVISER
- Joined
- May 2, 2003
- Messages
- 2,806
Make sure you really get those rpm,s down at holeshot. My 98 worked best at 8-8100 rpm climbing to 8300 rpm at finish. The clutching & suspension set up is so very critical. You can really put a hurting on some larger more powerfull sleds with proper set up if they have not done their homework. I saw an old 98 600 xtc twin wax the hell out of some newer iron. 600 was set up incredibly well(ex haydays winner) & it really surprised a lot of spectators who thought that sled was gonna get waxed!
auji700triple
New member
wow a 98 600 xtc twin? That sled must be some Fine tuned, increadable.