S.S.Viper
New member
Hey there...
Okay...I'm gunna be doin some clutch work on my Stock Viper pretty soon and well I'm already leaning towards the 53/43 Green Spring Sec setup... buuut curious if anyone has tried any other setups via...Hammertime, Heel Clickers etc how do they compare ? And if I migrate to a Heel X roller system
do I start all over again?...
I've got sooo many questions...but I figured this could be the quickest improvment other than pipes...
cheers
Okay...I'm gunna be doin some clutch work on my Stock Viper pretty soon and well I'm already leaning towards the 53/43 Green Spring Sec setup... buuut curious if anyone has tried any other setups via...Hammertime, Heel Clickers etc how do they compare ? And if I migrate to a Heel X roller system
do I start all over again?...
I've got sooo many questions...but I figured this could be the quickest improvment other than pipes...
cheers
n2oiroc
New member
if you get the hammertimes wear shin guards and get a spare clutch right away. i have heard of way too many blowing up! they were a good idea and work well, but cant stand up to trail riding. heavy hitters seem to work well bottom to top and heel clickers work great too, but some people lose top end with them. turk seems to know how to get the top end back though, so give him a shout if you go that way.
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S.S.Viper
New member
No probs...I've been reading about those...I see soo many manufacturer claiming 5more Hp at the track etc... I just want something thats a little snappier and if I gain a mile on the speedo great...if I lose a few...thats fine...I want that torque feeling when I squeeze the throttle and show those ZR900's that I can play aswell...
acnas
New member
53/43 helix didnt work too good with the Heelclickers. Talk to Turk!! He gave me a setup that pulls like a freight train. I used the original Heelclickers with 3 grams tip and 3 grams in the heel. The Helix I would have to look at. Had a few on there and forget what is in there. I can get back to you on that if you want. I know it is what Turk suggested.
I put 53/43 helix/green spring in my sled before last season. I was neck and neck with ZR900 up to 75mpg on trip out last year. If you don't all ready have the tourque limiter.. Get one. I also added more weight to my stock tip weight. It pulls nice.
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quebec#1
New member
This is my set up 48/40 helix Heelclickers 3grams heel, 1st hole empty & 3 grams tip with the red primary spring & a green yammie secondary spring at 60 degree twist.
Or maybe 70 ?
Incl the engine torque limiter.
I did find the top end slower than stock set up and think you need at least 8700 to 8800 revs to get peak hp's and top end.
With this kit im reving at 8600 dont go less than 8500 rpm's =(no top end)
I do have a lot more torque and it does seem like the machine came alive but i now have way to much track spin with the stock yoko track with 96 pins.
Im going with a used one inch camo track off a 2005 machz with 144 studs, that should help the grip out !
Or maybe 70 ?
Incl the engine torque limiter.
I did find the top end slower than stock set up and think you need at least 8700 to 8800 revs to get peak hp's and top end.
With this kit im reving at 8600 dont go less than 8500 rpm's =(no top end)
I do have a lot more torque and it does seem like the machine came alive but i now have way to much track spin with the stock yoko track with 96 pins.
Im going with a used one inch camo track off a 2005 machz with 144 studs, that should help the grip out !
xsivhp
Active member
I run stock primary and the 53/43 and a green spring, and I like it. Gas mileage went up 1 to 1-1/2 mpg, too. (Thanks Turk!)
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I have the 53/43 with the green spring at a 70 degree. It did make the sled feel alot snapier. I also added the torque limiter and 144 studs center. The sled rocks and is great on gas too. Every thing else is stock, fun and reliable.
S.S.Viper
New member
Wow...the input you guys give are awesome...This site rules!!!...
I really appreciate this...After reading a few inputs its seems
like it wouldn't hurt to get a Torque limiter for starters...at the
moment I'm still leaning towards the 53/43 setup to keep the cost
down (baby on the way)...but I also recieved some great input regarding
the Heel-X setup that I'm still gunna do my homework on...I'm guessing
nobody's seen side by side comparisons with both setups...or Any other
input?
thanks guys
I really appreciate this...After reading a few inputs its seems
like it wouldn't hurt to get a Torque limiter for starters...at the
moment I'm still leaning towards the 53/43 setup to keep the cost
down (baby on the way)...but I also recieved some great input regarding
the Heel-X setup that I'm still gunna do my homework on...I'm guessing
nobody's seen side by side comparisons with both setups...or Any other
input?
thanks guys
S.S.Viper
New member
Actually I made a mistake on my Roller Clutch option...I said Heel-X
but I ment to say Advant-Edge or Roller Rooster is the one everyone
is raving about...Has anyone seen a comparison between Turks 53/43 Vs
one of these Secondary Roller setups?
but I ment to say Advant-Edge or Roller Rooster is the one everyone
is raving about...Has anyone seen a comparison between Turks 53/43 Vs
one of these Secondary Roller setups?
First off, your comparing apples with banana's, a roller secondary isnt ever going to be the same as just a faster shifting helix(53/43). The roller seondary is just that... a roller, uses rollers where the contacts are on the helix, so theres 10 times less friction drag there and they increase the shift speed because of this and increase the backshift speed as well, this is why you have to run smaller helix angles with a roller secondary then a stock yamaha button clutch. you also will need more seocondary spring pressure to control the shift in a roller then a button, in fact they are so sensative many guys complain about loss of topend with them as they will backshift at the slightest loss of torq. transmitted from the engine.
The secondary clutch is a torq. sensative device, meaning if your flying along at 80mph and your motor doesnt have any more power left, your secondary will begin to backshift and drop the belt back into a differnt ratio(higher in secondary and lower in primary) to best transmit the power to the track. this is what happens with the loss of topend some people find with a roller secondary, it can be tuned out and made to work well. The only problem many find with roller secondary's are when you grass drag race, they shift so fast its very hard to hang onto the belt, they simply overshift too easy, and by using a stiffer secondary spring this takes away topend speed. A snowmobile will go the fastest mph in a given distance with the least amount of rear secondary clutch spring press.You just have to find the magic tension to control the shift but not overpower it and make the rear clutch fight the front clutch by trying to backshift.
The 53/43 helix and green secondary spring is a cheap clutch kit that works very well, its just that a cheap clutch kit. Improves the holeshot by shifting the sled up faster and backshift better as well from the lower finish angle, all around better then the stock 47. You may over rev slightly on top and need to add some tip weight, which is a good thing, it helps you to hang onto the belt better at topend.
As far as heel clickers go, you would never be able to use the 53/43 helix with them, it would be like starting out in a stick shift car in 3rd gear all the time. If you want to read aboutheel clcickers and how to make them work, look in the tech articles and read, i posted a couple things in there on them.
The secondary clutch is a torq. sensative device, meaning if your flying along at 80mph and your motor doesnt have any more power left, your secondary will begin to backshift and drop the belt back into a differnt ratio(higher in secondary and lower in primary) to best transmit the power to the track. this is what happens with the loss of topend some people find with a roller secondary, it can be tuned out and made to work well. The only problem many find with roller secondary's are when you grass drag race, they shift so fast its very hard to hang onto the belt, they simply overshift too easy, and by using a stiffer secondary spring this takes away topend speed. A snowmobile will go the fastest mph in a given distance with the least amount of rear secondary clutch spring press.You just have to find the magic tension to control the shift but not overpower it and make the rear clutch fight the front clutch by trying to backshift.
The 53/43 helix and green secondary spring is a cheap clutch kit that works very well, its just that a cheap clutch kit. Improves the holeshot by shifting the sled up faster and backshift better as well from the lower finish angle, all around better then the stock 47. You may over rev slightly on top and need to add some tip weight, which is a good thing, it helps you to hang onto the belt better at topend.
As far as heel clickers go, you would never be able to use the 53/43 helix with them, it would be like starting out in a stick shift car in 3rd gear all the time. If you want to read aboutheel clcickers and how to make them work, look in the tech articles and read, i posted a couple things in there on them.
S.S.Viper
New member
I'm speechless...thanks for the input...I've been reading a few responses
that you and Turk have replied to with other post...Everything you said
makes sense...but it still boggles the mind...I think I'll just put on the
53/43 set up for now and if I see other mods etc down the road then
I might change it up...
I guess I was just thinking if I grab a second secondary clutch
and throw a roller set up in one..and the 53/43 in the other, I
could compare myself...but it sounds like the primary will need some
rejigging...I don't want the hassle...I just wanna ride...
My last question would be...if I hook up the torque limiter...what would be
the best tool to line up the clutches...and is it hard to do?...
that you and Turk have replied to with other post...Everything you said
makes sense...but it still boggles the mind...I think I'll just put on the
53/43 set up for now and if I see other mods etc down the road then
I might change it up...
I guess I was just thinking if I grab a second secondary clutch
and throw a roller set up in one..and the 53/43 in the other, I
could compare myself...but it sounds like the primary will need some
rejigging...I don't want the hassle...I just wanna ride...
My last question would be...if I hook up the torque limiter...what would be
the best tool to line up the clutches...and is it hard to do?...
Any of the aftermarket center to center tols work good, just set it up to the srx spec and all you have to do is basicly loosen the motor mounts and move it around till the tool fits on the primary and secondary jackshaft. then the offset guage behind the primary clutch surface to back of secondary surface, you can either move the engine or use washers on jackshaft to move secondary clutch, its very simple to do all of this. I would say its easiest to get a service manual as it shows you pics in it and has the dimensions you need.
srx specs are as follows: center to center is 267-270mm or 10.52-10.62"
sheave offset is: 13.5-16.5mm or 0.53-0.64"
srx specs are as follows: center to center is 267-270mm or 10.52-10.62"
sheave offset is: 13.5-16.5mm or 0.53-0.64"
I have used the advant-edge roller rooster with hc,s. In the Viper you would want about a 41/35 angle...even less. I also have a lot of 48ish/36ish billet helix,s kicking around for sale that would also work well with hc,s. If you need help tuning in the roller I have used it with just about any primary weight that will fit in a Yamaha clutch,
S.S.Viper
New member
I'm gunna pick up a center tool at my dealership and take it from there..I'm guessing an SRX service manual is good?..I've already got the Viper version but
it ask for different specs...
As for the advant-edge thanks for the input Turk...if I find a decent used one I'll be emailing you for info fer sure...but I've got $450CDN to play with and its outta my price range at the moment(wanna get a set of transfer rods aswell)...But your 53/43 setup will definetly get me comfortable setting somthing up that I've never done before...once I feel like a pro doin that...I'll try somthing more complicated...
(I also live in the city..so its hard to test things out)
I hafta admit...I'm still baffled that a Helix/Spring/xtra weights can change the characteristics that much...but it also makes sense...can you guys recommend any good books to read that explain it to the simple guy?(lotsa pictures..grin)
cheers
it ask for different specs...
As for the advant-edge thanks for the input Turk...if I find a decent used one I'll be emailing you for info fer sure...but I've got $450CDN to play with and its outta my price range at the moment(wanna get a set of transfer rods aswell)...But your 53/43 setup will definetly get me comfortable setting somthing up that I've never done before...once I feel like a pro doin that...I'll try somthing more complicated...
(I also live in the city..so its hard to test things out)
I hafta admit...I'm still baffled that a Helix/Spring/xtra weights can change the characteristics that much...but it also makes sense...can you guys recommend any good books to read that explain it to the simple guy?(lotsa pictures..grin)
cheers
I posted the srx specs for you just apply them to the viper with the engine tension(srx) link and your good to go.
Aaen performance has a good clutching book, its something you'll need to read 3 times before it will sink in, once you get a handle on how, what , each componet does, what happens when you change 1 thing and where to look for issues, clutching isnt all that hard.
Aaen performance has a good clutching book, its something you'll need to read 3 times before it will sink in, once you get a handle on how, what , each componet does, what happens when you change 1 thing and where to look for issues, clutching isnt all that hard.