Should I Nitrous?

R

Rambunctious

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Apr 19, 2004
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Holland, Michigan
I did new(er) track and clutch work done last year to my 2000 SRX to beat the buddies Rev.

Well, it worked, ......BUT he trumped me. pulled a brand new APEX out of the trailer on our first ride. AND he CLUTCHED IT !!!!! :o|

so, i will not be beat this year.
should I do the Boondocks nitrous, and can the sled run normally when not using the nitrous, just shoot it to beat him on the strait.
I don't want to compromise the clutching and jetting for non nitrous riding, for the ten times i will whip his butt :2strokes:

Ramb
 
You can't really have it both ways. These engines love to be clutched at 8500 RPM and if you are not at that RPM, you are not getting the power you are looking for. The Nitrous is going to fluctuate the RPM's by about 1000 RPM's depending on how much shot you are giving it. The sled can still be driven normally if you are clutched for nitrous but it will not run fast at all until you are on the nitrous, then hang on! If you have a well tuned 2000 SRX you should be able to stick with or beat his apex. These sleds should be a toss up if both are clutched.
 
thanks for th response, you guys helped me last year with advice and i think the helix I bought.
unfortunately , with his taller lug stock track and clutch work, he gets me.

boy... if a guy found a compound helix and spring setup that allowed nitrous on and off, might be a great product package. i very agressive weights and helix acceleration profile???)

so what else can i do beyound
1 tooth down gear
1" track
added weights
red spring at 70
41/53 helix

decking? head gasket? jetting? propylene oxide? two speed gear box for on the gas? ;) :dunno:

or do I buy your turbo Rx1 :4STroke:
Ramb
 
Holly Chit man, I haven't heard of propylene oxide outa anybody around here!!!!!!!!!!!
This stuff is da Chit man!!
We used that stuff with 120 octane and it rocks, but you had better have some big jets!!!


Try Powermist Nitro-X, it does not contain nitomethane, so it is safe to run in your fuel system. I would only mix a 5% when using with premium pump fuel.
You will have to bring up your jet size a minimum of two sizes. I know it works cause I had to add 2 grams of weight in the clutch to keep the rpm's inline. They say 5-7 percent increase in horsepower.

let's see 142 hp stock....142*1.05= 149 hp
or 142*1.07=152 hp Thats huge!!!!!!
 
was chatting at lunch with a fellow srx'er and he discussed all of the things they tried with their quads for ashpault (sp) drag racing.
they did a real engineering design of experiments with two idential dialed in quads to see what worked. clutching, fuel additives, timing, jetting, gearing, said the PO worked great, nitro methane melted down the motor in one pass #$%&*
said they were smoking everything on the drag stip.
again 5% PO was all that they needed, but they made the pass with the same jetting....... big difference vs. 100% duty cycle of a 200 mile sled ride....


I think i need a helix with a bump in the profile that only the nitrous boost pushes over, and into overdrive to keep the same clutching ????

ya..... ya !!!!! whataythink :ORC
 
big difference vs. 100% duty cycle of a 200 mile sled ride
Click to expand...

What....... You think the nitrous is going to do less damage than an oxygenator additive?

Any clutching you do for nitrous will make the sled run like a dog when your not on the laughing gas.

I use a Holtzman variflow to adjust my jetting when I'm using nitro-x.
Works really good. Clutch it so then when you add the nitro-x it's spot on, it may under rev slightly when you are using straight fuel.

Basically your sled will run like it's 20^f below all of the time.
 
the comment on 100% duty cycle was one run down a strip and the cool off is a lot different than 200 mile day on the sled. regardless of nitrous or PO additive methods.......

I still think that if a guy developed a clutch setup that worked "perfect" for on and off nitrous he would have a product in high demand


so.. if you have a helix/weigh combo all dialed in for no nitrous...... what can you do to that helix profile that when the added power (torque on belt) comes in, AT THAT POINT, it doesn't imediatly backshift and over rev........

what about a lockout cable that doesn't let it backshift when you don't want it to. or a bump on the helix profile way out at high ratio......... or........

is the hotlzman, a large thumb screw adjsutment on the needle? or liek tempaflow.. how does that work.. I have stock jetting in my 2000srx, never touched it yet.....

I'm starting to get obsessed with this now. :twisted: gotta beat the buddies APEX

Ramb
Ramb
 
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The helix Idea will not work because the clutches have to shift out fully when they are not on the nitrous and that is not possible if there is a big hunp that restricts it. The only thing I can think of are those like 2000 clutches that you can like program. I havent read much about them though.
 
understand.....

but...there is always a solution....... ;)!

what about a rotary servo on the helix spring.
10 degrees chage in windup ( 70vs80) adjusted my top rpm from 8800 to 8400.
or a pushpull cable that somhow adds spring compression ( something like a manual clutch mechanism.....

or a very sharp tail on drive clutch swing weight that will NOT let the engine overrev. a theoretical wall that overrides the helix spring.......

or........


you guys are the sled experts ;)! . I'm just a dumb engineer trying to figure this out on paper..... :dunno:

my master's project was vehicle performance and race strategy for a solar powered vehicle that competed in a 1655 mile race from Florida to Michigan ( 33 entries)
although it was only 1.2 hp (traveled 41mph at this power) the priciple is the same.....
we had a CVT transmission that we controlled manually to keep the electric motor in it's peak operating rpm ( exactly like we do for a snowmobile)
it was a bridgeport drill press CVT. we rigged a small motor to rotate the screw thread that controlled the drive pully sheeve gap, the driven was spring loaded to compensate. later we redid the controls to a manual setup with bycycle cables and pullies to rotate the screwthread.

what if a simple approach used this type of setup to shift between two preload settings on demand (manual cable, or servo driven by nitrous button.....)


just thinking outloud.


or I suppose the alternative is use a lot of nitrous over the weekend to stay in the clutch/powerband, or overrev on the limited gassings runs :o)

R
 
Bruce

does the 700 srx make more hp on nitrous at 8400 vs 8800? It would be great to see a dyno curve if anyone has one....

bottom line. is it that bad to run at 8700-8800 when on nitrous........

would a 30hp boost result in more than a 400 rpm rise?
thanks

Ramb
 
Our 30 HP shot would result in about a 800 RPM increase, other systems such as boss noss as you have read are only getting a 300 RPM increase. You basically have to decide which one you are gonna clutch for, or if you have some cash, clutch on entire primary for stock and clutch another entire primary for nitrous, then you are one bolt away from having perfect clutching in both situations. basically if you clutched between them, there is no doubt that you sled will go faster on the bottle then a perfectly clutched stocker. If you clutch for nitrous, HANG ON!
 
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