YPV Adjustments

EricMichael

EricMichael

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Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
543
Location
Presque Isle, ME
Going to race on the 23/24 just wondering if its important to have the dealer adjust my valves?Does that make much diffrence?Thanks
Eric
 

mine were out of sync when i adjusted mine and i think it made a little difference but i couldnt tell you for sure, but one of mine was out alot. I just took the head off and adjusted them flush with the cylinder wall. do a search and there are complete instructions on how to do it. it is very easy and make sure they are clean.
 
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I've heard from 1-2hp difference...unsure...I had YPV problems last year and tried to align them...turns out my CDI was defunct...so I hafta go back and re-synce them...Hell...I don't think it would hurt..and from what some of the dealers have been
saying...Yamaha stock settings are very liberable and hold back some extra snort...like 2-3mm valve edge on the inside...you need those suckers to be flush with the cylinder/valve wall...Bender and a few others have told me this...Hell it can't hurt anything...good like
 
It can make a lot of difference especially on top end if the valves are not opening all the way. Just take one of the cables loose, and you will see a huge difference in top-end power.
 
I took off the exhasut manifold and did the choke trick to see how far open they got, then used my finger in the exhaust ports to feel them. Mine were perfect at the start of last year, didn't do it a the end of the year though.
 
yes as kinger said you dont need to pull the head off to check the adjustment of the valves, you can take off the exhaust head pipes and reach up into the exhaust port and feel if they are flush with the top of the exhaust port when they are open.
 
alright, so i'm going to attempt this tomorrow..just finished putting 192 studs in with a ratchet :whine: so if i'm right bevels down on the valves and flush with the cylinder wall after idled down below 900 rpm...a guy told me that you need to mark the servo or something..i didn't really understand that..thanks for the help though
 
Yeah...if you have an er model...just turn the key...you can also buy a wire thingy from bender that compensates and opens the valves...I've also heard like you wrote down...turn the idle down...and you'll actually hear the change...check your servo(cover off) and mark it ...I've also heard if you hit the kill switch at this RPM it'll stay in that position..(but I think the springs inside will reset it)...From there you should have a marking and just twist it with some vice grips and lock it somehow..from there adjust away...Good luck...
 
it will make an impressive difference if one or more of them arent functioning properly. check and make sure where the cables attatch to the valve if they have started to come through you need new valves, of if the cable is fraying at that point, if the valve a too tight you can pull the cable through. it's like porting you engine allowing it to breathe better. you get the best of both worlds no porting down low but as the rpm's rise they open. huge difference if they are not working.
 
You may not be able to hear the servo motor open when you idle it down running. I usually take the plastic cover off the servo motor and watch it move when I hit the choke, that way you know for sure it worked. Pulling a plug wire will also work in idling it down.
 
I did mine last year and two were pretty dead on and one was off a tiny bit. To be honest i really didnt notice any diff. but like I said they wern't bad to begin with but all were are doing here us trying to get peak performance and every little bit helps. Oh and one last thing since your going through all the trouble of removing your manifolds you should deffinitely clean those valves up. No sence doing the same thing in another 5 hundred miles or so. OR maybe you be a little sick like me and just like taken crap apart so that u can put it back together.
 
Yeah, yesterday I just choked the motor completly out and when I felt the valves they were almost perfectly flush with the cylinder walls so I just adjusted them alittle to make them completly flush..wasn't sure about marking the servo? Wondering if what I did will be alright
 
Yeah, Sounds like you did it right...I just thought the spring in the Valve housing would draw the valve back in...good fer you..you popped yer Valving cherry,hehehe
 
I just did mine right now. It is really frustrating to get the manifold off, and find them all perfect. Why cant they make that easier to get off. Maxdlx
 
maxdlx said:
I just did mine right now. It is really frustrating to get the manifold off, and find them all perfect. Why cant they make that easier to get off. Maxdlx
Click to expand...

Yup, the actual adjustment takes what, 5 minutes. But it takes a good hour untill you get to that point, then an hour to put it all back together. Its good to see that I'm not the only one doin this stuff in September.
 
Im glad im not the only one who took for ever getting the f-ing manifolds off. I also may be screwed next cleaning/adjusting because i did a pretty good job of stripping 2 of the manifold bolts! :o|
 
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