Vmax540
VIP Member
Please Help my boys 1985 Suzuki LT50 4 Wheeler will not start ? ! ? It will spitter and sput once every 50+ pulls then not again until I let is set over night. When it does fire it stalls on it's own and if I even touch the throttle slightly it dies instantly. Plug appears wet there is gas in the float bowl and it will not respond to primeing with gas. Things I've done ! Thanks for any help !
Cleaned Tank & Fresh gas.
Checked Fuel pump Diaphram and line.
Cleaned carb/jets 3 times.
Needle and seat works with pressure & Vaccum.
Cleaned air filter.
Checked Magneto Keyway.
Checked magneto side seal (visually)
Replaced coil wire $ spark plug (good blue spark)
Checked torque of head bolts.
Compression 118 p.s.i.
Cleaned all wire connections.
Removed and flushed exhaust and baffle.
Removed and bypassed adult pulled rear teather cord.
Cleaned Tank & Fresh gas.
Checked Fuel pump Diaphram and line.
Cleaned carb/jets 3 times.
Needle and seat works with pressure & Vaccum.
Cleaned air filter.
Checked Magneto Keyway.
Checked magneto side seal (visually)
Replaced coil wire $ spark plug (good blue spark)
Checked torque of head bolts.
Compression 118 p.s.i.
Cleaned all wire connections.
Removed and flushed exhaust and baffle.
Removed and bypassed adult pulled rear teather cord.
are ya opening the petcock to prime for 10-30 seconds first? then you put it to on, it is a vacum operated petcock, meaning only flows fuel while engine is running, when on prime it will fill the float bowel full of fuel for starting it. Also the choke operation works backward on those, to have choke on the lever is down, off choke the lever is up. Is the float level correct?
oh ya I forgot, did ya take the intake restrictor out of it? this makes them start 10 times easier, remove carb from intake pipe, and then remove the 2 bolts holding intake to head, when you remove the intake you will see a srewdriver slotted plug in the intake end, heat up the intake with torch and then remove the plug, reinstall intake, this helps alot, there is also one in the exh system. I just had a lt50 in here last week for hard start problem, and between the intake and exh restrictors being removed and the carb tuned up, will start first pull now.
Vmax540
VIP Member
Wow......Thanks ! I've tried both Prime and the on Position without success. B.T.W. when in the on Position it is pumping gas. Do you have any idea on the float height and where to measure ? I didn't even see or know there was an intake restrictor ! I'll remove it tonight !
aSRX600guy
New member
sonds a bit like my old 500 cougar. turned out the flywheel key had sheared. every so often it would be close enough to fire, and there was plenty of resistance to let it pull over the engine. I didn't find it until the engine was on the shop table, and I was ready to split the case.
if gas is coming out of the fuel line with the lever in the 'on" then the petcock needs replaced, it should only flow fuel in the prime posistion, then after the engine starts and applies vacum to the petcock does it flow fuel in the "on" spot. You most likely have a flooded crankcase, the needle and seat is not strong enough in these to sustain the weight of the fuel pushing against the needle and seat so they use a vacum petcock to control it. Easiest way I clear out a flloded crankcase is to use a propane torch in spark plug hole and turn engine over, it will ignite the fuel and either pop out the exhaust pipe or head slightly. the second option is to remove the exh pipe and blow compressed air into the engine when piston is at BDC, this will put air into the crankcase and help you to dry it out.
Vmax540
VIP Member
Thanks again ! You could be right on the C.C. being flooded. I have pulled the recoil and lit the gas at the spark plug hole numerous time! I have removed the exhaust and blew air in the exhaust But, I'll make sure the piston in on B.D.C. next time ! The petcock in the ON position it spits a little gas out the line to the carb when pulling the recoil and the diaphram has no holes ? I see no Intake restrictor and I tried removing the exhaust baffle. The Top of float height on the end away from the needle and seat and measured from the bottom of carb on the flange is ~19-20mm (Not the float bowl gasket seat). The Magneto keyway looks like new. Thanks Very much !
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The one I just did was newer model I would bet, it didnt have a steel gastank it was plastic. They must have changed the way they regulated them from then till now, sorry.
I dont know the float spec but you can usually set them when carb is upside down to be just about level with bowl mounting surface, this will get you running anyways.
petcock leaking and crankcase flooding still sounds like the culprit to me, once the case is loaded up they can be a real bear to get started again.
if the petcock only spits fuel when you pull it its working ok, its the vacum from the piston that operates it, it doesnt drip anything when your not pulling it?? it should free flow in the prime posistion, and nothing in on when not pulling the rope to start it.
I dont know the float spec but you can usually set them when carb is upside down to be just about level with bowl mounting surface, this will get you running anyways.
petcock leaking and crankcase flooding still sounds like the culprit to me, once the case is loaded up they can be a real bear to get started again.
if the petcock only spits fuel when you pull it its working ok, its the vacum from the piston that operates it, it doesnt drip anything when your not pulling it?? it should free flow in the prime posistion, and nothing in on when not pulling the rope to start it.
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Also these units are famous for the exhaust getting clogged up. remove the exhaust and see if it fires right up for you, if so the exhaust is plugged. To burn out the pipe make a good bon fire and put the pipe in there. I used to do this with these small two strokers allot. Best way is a 55 gallon barrel filled with fire wood, put the pipe on top and let it burn till its out - usually several hours.
Above post is correct about removing the restrictors in the pipe and carb, we used to do this fresh out of the crate when delivering a new unit.
Tod
Above post is correct about removing the restrictors in the pipe and carb, we used to do this fresh out of the crate when delivering a new unit.
Tod
I haven`t read all threads, but I just wanted to tell you that even if it might look like you have a nice good spark, you could still have a faulty coil. Measure the primary & secondary windings in the coil with an ohmeter (or multimeter).
What about the clutch side crank seal?. Could be sucking oil&air... .
What about the clutch side crank seal?. Could be sucking oil&air... .