tomseal6
VIP Member
I was thinking about long traveling my SRX this winter and was wondering if you can long travel the front with viper shocks IF you put viper front shock mounts up front. I know viper front shocks will not bolt directly up to a SRX
I was looking at my pioneer performance catalog and they have an option for a SRX SX front long travel kit and it looks like theres more involved than just changing shocks in the front end to properly long travel the front. Its on the top of page 6 of the Pioneer Performance catalog offering the shocks, radius rods, and tie rod ends.
Any easier and cheap way to do it like i mentioned in the first paragraph?
I was looking at my pioneer performance catalog and they have an option for a SRX SX front long travel kit and it looks like theres more involved than just changing shocks in the front end to properly long travel the front. Its on the top of page 6 of the Pioneer Performance catalog offering the shocks, radius rods, and tie rod ends.
Any easier and cheap way to do it like i mentioned in the first paragraph?
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
mounts
Tom get some hauck adjustable mounts .Here's a link www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28014&page=2&pp=10
Are you going to do the rear I have some shocks out of a xtc.
Tom get some hauck adjustable mounts .Here's a link www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28014&page=2&pp=10
Are you going to do the rear I have some shocks out of a xtc.
tomseal6
VIP Member
confused on what to do to my sled looking at that link
There are 2 ways to do it. One is merely longer stroke shocks, or using different mounts to raise the front end, which doesn't actually long travel it. Thios is usually done to compensate for raising the rear ride height. The other true long travel method requires longer rad and steering rods to allow for the longer stroke of the new shock, and usually widens the front end too.
I put a BLT kit with Works shocks on mine, probably similar idea. Pretty easy to do. There is also a guy on E-bay selling mounts that drop the top mount about 1.5". I have a set from him, they are well made, stainless steel and reasonable IMO. Don't know if I will leave them on until I go to set up my geometry, and see how the sled sits with the Expert. Still waiting on a couple parts to complete.
I put a BLT kit with Works shocks on mine, probably similar idea. Pretty easy to do. There is also a guy on E-bay selling mounts that drop the top mount about 1.5". I have a set from him, they are well made, stainless steel and reasonable IMO. Don't know if I will leave them on until I go to set up my geometry, and see how the sled sits with the Expert. Still waiting on a couple parts to complete.
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
Tom you boldt the mounts to your bulkhead in place of the stock one's then they allow you to boldt the viper shocks right up with the fork end.
tomseal6
VIP Member
will a set of MTN SRX from the 98 MTN SRX be a good way to go without changing anything else?
tomseal6
VIP Member
pro116 said:Tom you boldt the mounts to your bulkhead in place of the stock one's then they allow you to boldt the viper shocks right up with the fork end.
so i could just use stock viper mounts to put viper shocks on?
I wouldnt have to do anything else to the radius rods or geometry?
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
Lol you need some srx adjustable shock mounts from hauck then boldt the viper shocks right up to them there not viper mount's.
tomseal6
VIP Member
thanks ryan,
are your XTC rear shocks ride quality similar to the revalved viper shocks or updated viper shocks?
would i need to buy the upper mount pin clevis or bolt for the viper front shocks?
how much you asking for the XTC shocks?
if i remember correctly, i think i would have to let the limiter straps out when i put the long travel shocks in the rear.
are your XTC rear shocks ride quality similar to the revalved viper shocks or updated viper shocks?
would i need to buy the upper mount pin clevis or bolt for the viper front shocks?
how much you asking for the XTC shocks?
if i remember correctly, i think i would have to let the limiter straps out when i put the long travel shocks in the rear.
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
tom, dont do this, this mounts the viper shock 2inches below where it was designed to. it makes the sled set too high in the front, makes tie rods bind when the front end is unloaded, and causes even worse bump stear than the sled has already. not to mention that the way these are mounted is just wrong. if you want to use the viper front shocks in front, there are three ways, 1 cut the ends off and have eyes welded on. this will make the shock 1in lower and will bolt in the stock location. still a little high but better in all other ways. 2 install a viper front cast section and upright mount, this will make everything bolt up correctly, even the motor. 3 build mounts to bolt to your bulk head to mount the shocks to in the stock location and height.
another option i have done is to use shocks from a polaris xtra10 front end, used viper springs, and bolted them right up, just the right heigh for the stock mount.
if your just looking for a little more height, you can flip the brackets for 1in gain.
if you want to widen your sled cheap just cut the inner sides of your rods, slide a slug in them and reweld, you cant see in there anyway. caution, 44in handles nice but doesnt fit on the trailer very well.
do a search on srxmaine he did his sled last year, lot of good info on there about fixing your skid.
another option i have done is to use shocks from a polaris xtra10 front end, used viper springs, and bolted them right up, just the right heigh for the stock mount.
if your just looking for a little more height, you can flip the brackets for 1in gain.
if you want to widen your sled cheap just cut the inner sides of your rods, slide a slug in them and reweld, you cant see in there anyway. caution, 44in handles nice but doesnt fit on the trailer very well.
do a search on srxmaine he did his sled last year, lot of good info on there about fixing your skid.
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
The xtc shocks are from a 98 xtc.I never used them I bought them to put in a srx and ended up selling the sled and still have the shocks.I'm looking at getting 145.00 for them
Another way
Tom. I long traveled an SRX for my buddy last year and installed an Expert X in the rear. It was not cheap but here's how we did the front. I used trailing arms, radius rods and tie rods from a 2001 SXR 700. Actually, they were Mtn Performance trailing arms and OEM rods. We got a great deal on the rods from Rich. This gave me the silver color to match the originals and it also corrected the caster angle/bump steer issues that Scott was talking about. Then he bought the shocks from Pioneer Performance. These were Viper shocks with a new long shaft with the "eye" style mount instead of the "clevis" style mount that the Viper shocks are stock. They bolt right up to the OEM SRX mount. This front end is plush. Not cheap, but a very nice ride. Just my .02
Madmatt
Tom. I long traveled an SRX for my buddy last year and installed an Expert X in the rear. It was not cheap but here's how we did the front. I used trailing arms, radius rods and tie rods from a 2001 SXR 700. Actually, they were Mtn Performance trailing arms and OEM rods. We got a great deal on the rods from Rich. This gave me the silver color to match the originals and it also corrected the caster angle/bump steer issues that Scott was talking about. Then he bought the shocks from Pioneer Performance. These were Viper shocks with a new long shaft with the "eye" style mount instead of the "clevis" style mount that the Viper shocks are stock. They bolt right up to the OEM SRX mount. This front end is plush. Not cheap, but a very nice ride. Just my .02
Madmatt
ReaperSRX
Member
I did the install last year, i used viper shocks and pressed the cleavis mount onto a aluminum spacer and used nylon washers to help keep moving freely. I used the radius rods and steering rods off a 2001 VMax 700 and aluminum spacers for the sway bar, this widen out the from to just over 42". I still found the sled sat to high and had to take alot of spring out to get the sled down, this caused the sled to push in corners,not to mention the sled has been longtracked to 136 ..........the overall ride was ok but i am in the process right now of welding a set of eye mounts off an old pair of SX shocks which will lower 1" and i had the guy who makes the SRX mounts, to raise the sled, make me a set that will lower the sled another 1".......the SRX Ohlins i had on the sled had a eye to eye length of 13.5" and the viper's are 17" so a figure if a can get 2" lower with the wider stance i should be right where i want to be......i will be posting pics in a few weeks of the new set up..........James
tomseal6
VIP Member
It sounds like a set of shocks from a polaris Xtra 10 and viper springs will be the easiest way for me.
Anybody know where i can get these? BTV with this option would i still have to widen it?
Anybody know where i can get these? BTV with this option would i still have to widen it?
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
we tried it first with no widening kit, it looked a little narrow but still handled ok, way better than i thought it would. i think he should have gone with making it 42in wide, i really think this when i have to lift my sled on top of his in the trailer.
i would widen to 42.
check your pms
i would widen to 42.
check your pms
tomseal6
VIP Member
I have decided to save my pennies for a full set of ohlins, I dont want to go through the hassle and will ride better with ohlins and still handle the same.
Thank you all for your time and input, atleast i have learned something from this
Thank you all for your time and input, atleast i have learned something from this
Rambunctious
New member
I long traveld the skid with viper shocks, and then switched (left to right) and flipped the stock brackets to raise the front 1"
there was some grinding of the brackets and a little on the bultkead to clear and align the shock mounts. a few stacked washers were also needed to set the angle of the brackets.
the front ride is still a little harsh. hard on the hands after a day of 80+mpg jitter bumps, but the handling is spot on.
this year I do want to take the viper fronts i have and make them work. so i will be looking into the cut and weld of the shock upper shafts prolly. I got the whole viper set for $100 !! takeoffs with no revalving. I set the skid FRA to the softest setting, and the ride is much better than stock srx.
the front preload, vs limiter straps, and fra setting make a huge difference in corner exit behavior. so don't get dissappointed on your first ride. play around and use the adjustment available and you will be happy
my first ride I though the sled was going to tip over at every corner, slow or fast. thought.....what have I done !!!!, but teh change from stiff FRA to the soft FRA completely change the handling. a 30 second adjustment at our first riding break.
Ramb
there was some grinding of the brackets and a little on the bultkead to clear and align the shock mounts. a few stacked washers were also needed to set the angle of the brackets.
the front ride is still a little harsh. hard on the hands after a day of 80+mpg jitter bumps, but the handling is spot on.
this year I do want to take the viper fronts i have and make them work. so i will be looking into the cut and weld of the shock upper shafts prolly. I got the whole viper set for $100 !! takeoffs with no revalving. I set the skid FRA to the softest setting, and the ride is much better than stock srx.
the front preload, vs limiter straps, and fra setting make a huge difference in corner exit behavior. so don't get dissappointed on your first ride. play around and use the adjustment available and you will be happy
my first ride I though the sled was going to tip over at every corner, slow or fast. thought.....what have I done !!!!, but teh change from stiff FRA to the soft FRA completely change the handling. a 30 second adjustment at our first riding break.
Ramb