Maybe the photos will speak for themselves. I typed out a big description once and I lost it. The bearings spin really smooth. It looks like there are chatter marks on the outside of the bearings and the cases. Aren't these bearings "indexed" so they don't spin but the crank spins inside of them? There was no debris.
Am I screwed?
Am I screwed?
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more photos...
here are the others...
And of course I couldn't help but try to make things worse. When I was putting in the bolts for the puller, I put one in too far and of course I hit the stator.... Did I mess it up? I can blow up the photo if it helps....
here are the others...
And of course I couldn't help but try to make things worse. When I was putting in the bolts for the puller, I put one in too far and of course I hit the stator.... Did I mess it up? I can blow up the photo if it helps....
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daman
New member
It don't look to bad from what i can see
should be guide pins that keep the bearings from spinning.
should be guide pins that keep the bearings from spinning.
So those marks are just marks and nothing to worry about? What about the stator...I might have severed a wire in there....
Holy S! Those stators are expensive....anyway to fix that? The camera wouldn't focus any closer....
Holy S! Those stators are expensive....anyway to fix that? The camera wouldn't focus any closer....
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daman
New member
dnale said:
i've seen them marks before i don't think there any thing to worry about
from what i can remember.
hard to see the stator good from that pic.
That's a relief. I was pricing crank bearing the whole nine yards. It was adding up fast.
From what I can see I pinched and cut some of the strands of the black wire that comes from the harness. It doesn't look like all of them are cut but it's hard to tell with all of the plastic/wax that coats it.
From what I can see I pinched and cut some of the strands of the black wire that comes from the harness. It doesn't look like all of them are cut but it's hard to tell with all of the plastic/wax that coats it.
daman
New member
dnale said:
LOL yea that crap can add up thats for shure.
if it cut some wires you MAY want to hunt for a new one
**edit**
Damn just looked again can't really tell
Let's put it this way...I'm already looking....I'd rather have it right and put it together once than to put it together, have soemthing not work/start/etc and have to tear into it again. I'm not a fan of doing it twice. Hence why I pulled the crank to replace the seals....I'll feel better about the seals now at least...
daman
New member
hopefully someone will jump in and conferm the bearing, but yea
now's the time,good to see your doing it right...
now's the time,good to see your doing it right...
sxviper32
New member
don't quote me, but i think a $100 will get you a re-wound stator that works better than stock (more juice, more efficient, something like that). you may look into something like that if you can't find a used one. see which route is the better one. if the re-wind is about the same as a used, i'd just get it re-wound.
A electrical/alternator service shop should be able to test that stator out for you-cheap...and take a close look at the bearings again...should be a small hole in the outer bearing race so that the pins in the lower or upper case should slip in and hold it from rotating...Some of my bearing looked like that, but it was locktite on it-sort of dual purpose seal and bond-on the outer bearings only...inner ones clean...mine is a tripple, so I have little experience in twins, but have rebuilt a few engines in my time...good luck, keep us posted...Mike
WHere would I find a stator like that? I pm'd 800. He had one....
ouch, that doesnt look good, thats chatter in the bearing cages from either detonation or the motor has been blown up and the crank bearings are sloppy. how do they feel when you hold the outside of the races and wiggle them? is there alot of side to side clearance? while holding the outside races with one hand and the crank from moving with the other, can you move the bearing either up or down or feel any slop what so ever ? When they are bad you can usually feel slop in them if you can feel it they need replaced.
I'll check the bearings again tonight. They looked pretty good actually. I had a piston ring go last winter, hence why I'm rebuilding. It hasn't blown up on me. I've always ran premium (because of the thin hg and pipes). I don't know about the previous owner. I know it was rebuilt once before I got it.
Is it possible that those bearing location pins have been in wrong place. Or wrong sealing glue between cases -> too much cap?
Newer seen nothing like this..
Newer seen nothing like this..
greg
New member
I have seen a similar problem. When someone put a twin back together, they did not locate the bearing locating holes with the guide pins in the cases. When the cases where torqued back together, the guide pins where pushed down into the cases. I was lucky; my brother is a tool and die maker. He tig welded rods to the guide pins and we were able to pull them out (with some heat) and we replaced the pins. The pins usually stick up about 3/32nds of an inch. In that twin; the pins only stuck up 1/64th of an inch. If your pins don't stick up high enough, you run the risk of the bearings spinning in the cases (even with new bearings).
I'll have to see what the pin measures. The bearings are in good shape aside from that. They do nothing other than spin. No slop. This has been a learning experience for sure. What kind of sealant gets on the two halves of the case? There was very little, really it was only noticeable on the ends of the halves.