Hydraulic Brakes on 1990 Exciter

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BoB101[H]

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Last year I put a new track on my backup sled, 90 exciter, and right away had tons more hookup. I loved it right till the first corner in the woods... I put new brakes in and it just doesn't stop. That new track is almost a little too much traction and the cable brakes don't cut it any more. Anyone here ever find or make a hydraulic kit for these oldies? I'd like to make it a little safer for any noobs that I drag out on the trails...
 

get your self a arctic cat zr brake set up.....its bascally the same as bender used to sell for the pogo yammies....very easy to modify to fit
 
Funny thing. My friend and I were just sitting staring at my exciter wondering how we could get a hydraulic brake on there. I'll let you know what we work out. What track did you put on by the way? I had a 136 x 2 and I could still lock it up when needed.
 
It's not a 2, just a 1.5" and I can lock it up for the first couple of turns, but after that, forget it. They just completly fade. Up here (Price County, WI) trails are about as twisty as they come so I need something that stays a lot more consistent through the day. I can stay witlh almost any sled until the second turn, then I just get left behind. I will start looking for that ZR setup. Lots of Polaris brake setups on Shmebay so I might grab one of those just to start fabbing something.
 
you should measure the distance between the bolts that hold the brake caliper to the chaincase. then get yourself a hydraulic caliper that will bolt directly onto your caliper mounting system without the use of an adapter plate. any master cylinder should work for you.
 
I have an arctic cat that has a polaris hydraulic brake retro'd on it. I'll have to get you some pics of it as it's very similar to the brakes we have. Pretty simple though. Wouldn't be hard.
 
Isn't brake fade due to overheated pads & rotor if so, how would a hydraulic brake cool any better than a cable system ? All Yamaha's of this era had the rather small, solid and unvented disk's and I've always wondered if there were any aftermarket rotors out there ? Are the Rt. side vent covers still on the underneath of the shroud and not allowing cool air to get to the brake assembly ?
 
hydraulic calipers clamp harder so even with faded brakes it would break better. You could drill it out, actually wouldn't be too hard with a drill press and some enginuity.
 
crimsonride said:
hydraulic calipers clamp harder so even with faded brakes it would break better. You could drill it out, actually wouldn't be too hard with a drill press and some enginuity.
Click to expand...


My plan exactly! I should have a set within the next week, I'll keep you all posted on the progress. Unless by some miracle we get snow this week...
 
definitely let me know what you do. I've got an exciter in the works (about to be revealed) and that was one of my plans.
 
crimsonride said:
hydraulic calipers clamp harder so even with faded brakes it would break better. You could drill it out, actually wouldn't be too hard with a drill press and some enginuity.
Click to expand...

Maybe so, but I have gotten the little/unvented rotors glowing hot more than once and even a hydralic setup won't keep it cool ?!? :( I've thought about drilling one but, would you not need to keep it perfectly balanced and how many holes would it take to make any difference ? Certainly, someone made an aftermarket rotor ?
 
being that it's such a small diameter and you're not going to be drilling very large holes in it I doubt you'll have to worry about balancing issues with it. I'm sure you could make a template on a computer program with the locations of where you want to drill the holes marked on it. One thing you would have to do is make sure you chamfer the holes after you drill them (probably with a counter sink).
 
another idea would be to vent it to the outside somehow. Water on the brake isn't going to cause much a problem with braking if it's that hot. (other than possibly warping a hot rotor). Maybe that's one solution?
 
The 94-96 Vmax's rotors are too large in diameter and the splines on the jack shaft are different........been there ! Unless change the center of the rotor and mod the mounting bracket ?
 
HMMMM,

I am digging deep here. I can't remember exaclty, but it bolted right up.

Since you are in WI, you can try calling Arts Parts, they are located in Ladysmith, Wi.

They might know.
 
1990 Exciter

Here was my old sled.

Bender Pipe (after the Aaen blew out twice),
Bender Race Port
Flat slide carbs
120 studs
Motocross handlebars
1.25" track
Lowered front springs

I think that was it.
 

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crimsonride said:
being that it's such a small diameter and you're not going to be drilling very large holes in it I doubt you'll have to worry about balancing issues with it. I'm sure you could make a template on a computer program with the locations of where you want to drill the holes marked on it. One thing you would have to do is make sure you chamfer the holes after you drill them (probably with a counter sink).
Click to expand...


There are companies that drill motorcycle brake rotors, but they may not want to do a snowmobile rotor because of the small size and having to have a different program plus possibly set up issues. I had a Phazer rotor drilled at a place in California several years ago, but I did not like the job they did (hole placement and size). It was $40 plus the shipping.
If anyone would make a template on a computer. I would be interested in buying one.
The holes should cover the entire swept surface and should overlap each other.
The holes should be sharp edged and not chamfered at all.

To improve the performance of the cable brake: If the brake cable has not been changed recently, put a new one on.
It may feel fine and move freely. but when it tightens up under load, the force to move it can multiply greatly with an old or worn cable.

Remove the brake actuating screw assembly and clean it thoroughly with solvent (brake parts cleaner). Apply some lithium grease to the male and female threads with a brush, not too much and be careful to keep the grease away from everything else.
If the sled has a lot of miles on it, the screw assembly could be worn to the point that it will bind even when clean and lubed.

Make sure that the rotor is free to float and not rusted to the shaft.
 
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