Hitting the clutch puller?

norwegian

norwegian

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I friend of mine says that to get off the primary clutch, he tightens the clutch puller and then hits the clutch puller with a hammer to get the clutch to pop off.
To me it sounds rather harsh, won't it be hard on the crank bearings/ and/or crank?
 
id think teh same things. the puller should be srong enough to pop it of by its self,. i never hit it and rarely have a problem getting it off
 
I had a primary that was so stuck it took nuclear fusion type heat to release it. This was on a used sled & 1 i bought privately. I tried grease; frozen water at -30 & tapping the clutch puller. I had to get the inner shive blazing red hot & threw ice on it. It banged so loud it allmost deafened everyone in the shop when it popped. On a properly torqued down primary light pressure on the puller should pop it right off.
 
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hey turk just wonderin - what kind of machine was that clutch on ? also i need a clutch puller for a 700 sx, have one for sale ?
 
The clutch was on a 700 MSRX. Don,t have a puller fs but they are cheap to buy locally.
 
for normal "stucks" pump grease into the end of the crank threads. enough so it is tough to screw in the puller by hand. then tighten with a breaker bar, slowly. should pop in all but the toughest stucks. usually the tough ones werent tightened properly and the clutch spins on the crank and they "fuse" together. personally, i would never hit a puller hard while installed in the crank. good luck.
 
Took the primary off a 433GPX and used a pipe on the ratchet and had the motor bolted to a vice. When the primary popped off, it sent me flying and the primary went flying, it was quite violent. Bent the puller as well.

The grease pressure idea seems like a good one, going to use that next time!
 
I don't understand how you pump grease in to the crank threads while the primary is still on??
 
take the end of the grease gun off (the part you put on the fittings) put the hose or tube whichever the case may be, into the hole in the clutch where you pulled the bolt holding the clutch to the crank as deep as you possibliy can. pump 4-5 pumps of grease in. and then thread the puller into the grease. try that first most times it will pop.

as stated above in extreme cases you want to fill the crank hole so you barely can get the puller into the threads. this is hydrolic pressure helping you pop the press fit of the clutch to the crank. it also acts as a lube too, because doing this dry is hard on your puller and ratchets. i prefer a breaker bar over a ratchet as i have broken enough ratchets to fill a warehouse.

make sure to clean as much grease out of the inner clutch hub and threads in the crank end after it is off and before you reinstall your clutch. once it is popped off initially, you may use less grease for ease of clean up. it isnt nearly as hard to get it off after the first time. if you pull it regularly for upgrades, tuning and maintainence, it will remove and install easier. hope this helps. ski
 
I use a 24" breaker bar as well. Cheaper than a good 1/2 inch ratchet.

Good idea to lube the threads a bit to help with wear as well. Even the hardened pullers will either wear their threads or the clutch's threads.

I have had to tap the sheave on one after being tight for a few minutes and not letting go. That stored energy sure goes off with a bang.
 
Just remember that hitting a clutch puller that is threaded tightly into the crank is about the same as hitting the crank itself. They will take a lot, but who knows at what amount of force the berings actually suffer damage. The engine will likely run for a while after this, but if dimples were created in the bearing races they will likely show up as craters after a while. Automotive bearings are more forgiving but can also be damaged this way.
 
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