BigMan76
Member
Question:
I just received a widening kit (thank you VMax540) for my 1991 Phazer II LE (Blue plastics) and woudl like to try and color match the panels.
1) How to even paint the plastic?
2) Any idea on the color code for the 1991 Phazer II LE? Same sled as, I believe his tag is: akrievens . . .
Thanks.
Will try to post pics tomorrow when I get back to the shop/office.
I just received a widening kit (thank you VMax540) for my 1991 Phazer II LE (Blue plastics) and woudl like to try and color match the panels.
1) How to even paint the plastic?
2) Any idea on the color code for the 1991 Phazer II LE? Same sled as, I believe his tag is: akrievens . . .
Thanks.
Will try to post pics tomorrow when I get back to the shop/office.
akrievins
New member
That is correct!
There she is!
There she is!
Vmax540
VIP Member
Big you're welcome I'm glad you're pleased ! Take a side panel to an automotive paint supply shop and have them scan the paint color. B.T.W. The Bender wide panels are not a type like some, that are hard to paint from what I remember ?
Vmax540
VIP Member
I have added wide kits to Phazers, Exciters, and V-maxs and firmly believe this is the single biggest improvement to stability, ride, handling, reduced ski lift, and not to mention they look awesome ! I've found the 40" ski stance to be a good all around width for trail riding and trailering. For Phazers Yamaha had rubber fillers on the 40”widened 96 -98 Phazer II’s to fill in the gap between the panel and strut holder.
-You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
-Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison on alignment.
-#2 Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
-I drill 4 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
- Take a dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
-Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
- After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe to double the strength and weld in place.
- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals.
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsc@csonline.net 814 226 – 1595 7-2 eastern or 814 354 – 2687 evenings and weekends
-You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
-Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison on alignment.
-#2 Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
-I drill 4 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
- Take a dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
-Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
- After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe to double the strength and weld in place.
- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals.
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsc@csonline.net 814 226 – 1595 7-2 eastern or 814 354 – 2687 evenings and weekends
