SLP Pipes on Viper Clearance issue

V

Viper_Guy

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Oct 18, 2006
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17
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53
Location
Upstate NY
Ok... now I was lazy last year and had a dealer install a site of SLP ceramic pipes on my 02 Viper. And the dealer never checked hood clearance... 10 miles down the trail and I had a burnt hood... (new one shipped courtesy of the dealer).

**Now that I have everything adjusted as best I can I am still uncomfortable with the closeness of the pipes to the center of the hood (just below the headlight)... has anyone had to deal with this, and found a nice clean fix to the issue?!!! I would love to hear and a pic of the solution would make me sleep a lot better before that first ride!!! Thanks all.
 
Tried that.... got the tape so hot it just melted through the mess... never even installed the foam on the new hood for that purpose! I checked the install procedures and even ordered a second PTO pipe to make sure that wasn't the issue.
 
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hmmm.... I tried shimming the hood on the tank side, and had to shim it so far to get the clearance that it looked ridiculous, but I haven't tried shimming the hinge side.
 
I have an 02 viper with slps, it had benders before and they messed the hood up, I just followed slp's instructions with the heat tape and everything was fine for one winter so far...i believe the used set of slp's I bought from a friend had to be cut and re angled near the silencer to fit properly, not 100% sure though
 
Eric,
Interesting reply... I really am starting to believe that to get this pipes to fit well enough to be "worry free" that I am going to have to cut the tail of the stinger to get it to fit properly... now I have to run home and see if that will cause other clearance issues with the pipes below it! Love the product, but can't blieve people aren't having issues... EVEN after following their install instructions perfectly
 
I bought two 3/8" high nuts larger then the hinge bolts, longer hinge bolts by 3/8" to raise the front of the hood. Then you know how the tub fits up into the hood where it is slotted back by the straps under the word viper in hood photo. I put a 6" piece of rubber gas line with a outside diameter of 3/8" on both sides. It is a tight fit and will not fall out. This raised the hood 3/8" all the way around. Put a 1/2" tall piece of self adhesive foam insulation around the hood where it seals to the air box. The hood stays closed and in proper alignment, no problem. Unless you really know how the hood normally looks and look really close you will never notice. SLP sells a really good heat tape for your hood and tub. I will post pictures of the hood when I have some. It helps clearance a lot and keeps things much cooler under the hood. I never had a problem before, just did it to cool things down a little and for some hood protection insurance.
 
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I got a Piped viper, Bender Pipes. installed them along with the Heat tape and Shim kit. never had 1 problam. nothing. i was skeptical at first but got over it.
 
ive had my slp pipes on for two years on my viper, removed all under hood foam and replaced with reflective heat tape. no problems, good fit and finish. i wouldnt start hacking and whacking on the pipes, or stingers, might lead to a larger more expensive problem. recheck all your fitment issues. doesnt hurt to look again. ski
 
Checked them, rechecked them, then checked it again. Everything is snug and where it should be. Are your pipes the same as mine? The one pipe for the most part sits right against the mag plug cap too!
 
slp viper pipes are slp viper pipes. and yes one pipe runs close to the mag plug cap and you should wrap it with reflective heat tape to protect it too. if you havent removed ALL of the requested removal foam under the hood, make sure to do that. i removed more than they said and cleaned all adhesive off (super time consuming and a pita) then replaced all foam with reflective protective tape. go crazy under there with the stuff, it wont hurt, it will only help. couple layers around the bottom of the headlamp wont hurt either. ski
 
I did everything SKI has posted above. Whole hood is heat tape with DEI heat tape its pricey but its quality stuff, got it from Summit Racing. And when I remove all the grim from the foam I used stripeze gop, pour on a towel, spread evenly, let it sit but not for any longer than 3 minutes cause this stuff eat through stuff like nothing, and comes off with a putty knife like nothings there. Foam is only there for sound and holds some heat, plus attraches rodents. My pipes arent mounted yet but I'll be paying close attention is clearance issues.
 
A K... that does look good. Have you had any issues with the one pipes rubbin gon the plug cap. Again, I have exchanged this pipe once, it rubs it just a little... just a matter of time before it wears thru... needless to say I carry electrical tape!
 
I ground a little off the chain case plug cap. Also If you wiggle the chain case pipe after it is installed you will see that you can get a little more clearance (1/4"), by pushing it forward and down gently. the spring that holds that pipe and the clutch pipe can be assisted by a piece of strong wire to hold the pipe away from the spark plug cap. My chain case cap is normaly wrapped with heat tape. Click on image to enlarge.
 
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Trust me underhood foam is not an issue.... I am on the new hood and never installed the OEM foam in the replacement hood.... but let me tell ya the paint is already to starting to look like things are a little too warm. Couple layers worth or foil tape too
 
I use header warp fabric (the woven 2" wide stuff) between the hood and foil tape. Takes up minimal amount of space, and insulates well.
What I do is cut the header warp to length(s) and epoxy it to the under side of the hood. Then glue the heat tape foil to the header warp fabric with high temp silicone.
I also scuff the underside of the hood with rough sand paper to help the epoxy stick.
Worse part of the whole job removing the OEM foam glue, what a PIA.
 
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