Take a look at this crack in my primary

YAMAHIZAL700

YAMAHIZAL700

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Joined
Feb 12, 2005
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863
Age
45
Location
durham, ME
Is this crack something to worry about
 

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I am having the worst trouble getting these damn pics on here. Ive got them resized on photobucket but how do I get them in my thread. I went to manage attachments but how do I connect the resized pic from photo bucket
 
I SEE IT I SEE IT!!! oh sorry, I thaught I saw something lol. :o| Running with a crack is not good. Your asking for trouble. Get another one.
 
Pics

Try this... it worked for me...
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
All you do is download this link. Then when you post a pic under manage attachments select browse, select a picture you want in you pic folder, you right click the thumbnail of the pic you want and then from the pulldown/popup menu select resize picture...then another pulldown/popup menu appears, select the advance option, select make picture smaller...this adds another pic in the folder but now smaller to be loaded up...remember that there will be two, always select the (small)...Good luck and let us know how you made out...

Now about the clutch, I realy can't see if there is one but the tell-tell sign is there...I think, well if you can post new pics I will be able tell...I have seen a photo of a clutch exploded in the sled. It made a mess, I think the guy had to replace his crank...If I can find the article I will post for ya...you will cry cause his damage was alot more that half a cluth or a whole one for that matter...When in doubt replace, cause things are turning fast, real fast...
 
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Thanks the blues I cant seem to get a great pic of the crack because of the angle. But im going to see if I can find a decent one somewhere on here.
 
I exploded a yamaha primary once, wrote up a few descriptions on what that was like. Only takes one time and you dont want to do that again ;)!
 
That's one nasty looking crack! DO NOT RUN THAT CLUTCH. When they get that big, the clutch can blow anytime. When a primary clutch blows, it usaully takes out the crank, belt guard, belly pan, and sometimes the hood and secondary. It's good that you caught it before it went.
You can replace the clutch sheaves, it would be a good idea to replace the bushings, spider buttons, check/replaced the rollers/weights and spring also. Then you would basiclly have a brand new clutch. When replacing sheaves, I would have the clutch spin balanced also.
RV wilderness sports in Idaho does a good job spin balancing clutches for a fair price.
When replacing sheaves, use 00 and newer SRX/Viper sheaves. They are thicker/stronger then the earlier units, and resist cracking better. Not sure what year your sled is, but the latter style sheave(s) will directly bolt on to the ealier (pre 2000) YVX spider.
 
I dont understand how they its possible to resheave can someone explain the process. Also whats it cost to have that done? IF anyone has a clutch for me please pm me because I dont want to waste my time rebuilding this one if I can find one reasonably priced. When I say rebuild I only mean a different set up I didnt get rollers or any other parts than for my new set up. Thanks fo r the help.
 
The fixed sheave is threaded (left hand threads) on to the spider (shaft). It can be removed using a special spider removeall tool, often called a grunt tool. The grunt tool is required because the sheave is threaded on REAL tight with locktite. I made my own grunt/spider tool that works well, however you can take your clutch into your Yamaha dealer and they can bust it loose for you. Shouldn't take them more than 15 min. or so to do. When you go back together with the new sheave, the tool is required to tighten it down also.
Removeall/install of the fixed sheave takes approx 1/2 hour depending how stuck it is. Heating up the fixed sheave at the threaded area with a propane torch, helps free up the locktite. This makes disassembly a little easier.

If you can find a used clutch, it would be easier. However good used clutch without cracks can be hard to find sometimes. Thats why I perfer to resheave/overhaul the one I have. Then I know everything is new and in top condition. Plus the added bonus of being able to upgrade a pre 2000 clutch to post 2000 specs.
 
I bought a new piece because the cracks are from basically improper machining.. I know that comment will open up a bunch of worms, but lets keep it simple... Stress rizers and improper castings are "normal" when you deal with JAPANESE steel and aluminum... They have been making substandard garbage for years... There is a company here in Illinois called 300 below... go on their website and e mail them. The guys name is Dick mayberry, his number is 1-800-550-2769.. He will GLADLY spend a LOT of time explaning exactly what it does and how much it costs... Basically, it takes the stress out of the metal and virtually molecularly restructures the part... They have been using it in dragracing for a LONG TIME,,, Pistons, cranks, RODS,,etc,etc,etc with DRAMATIC results... Yamaha primary sheaves will CONTINUE to crack no matter HOW MANY YOU BUY and however you take care of them UNLESS you eliminate the rizers (to say the least)... I remember going to a race in New York (from chicago) and driving to BENDER because NOONE had a primary sheave available, and I was on the road to race in New York.. I went to BENDER and got a sheave and DESTROYED one of his guys pickup trucks by doing a u turn in his parking lot.. I basically rolled over his front end with my trailer!!! Sorry about that!!!! but, i have BAD MEMORIES of that weekend in NEW YORK!!!! (good memories too)...Gary Oles nosboy
 
like I said before, you will KEEP going through sheaves if you don't cryogenically treat them.. i don't care WHO tells you WHAT... JAPAN makes some GARBAGE metals, They have for a LONG TIME and they will continue to... ITS CHEAPER!!!! and its all about the money!!! gary Oles nosboy
 
Really glad I got around to showing you guys these pics. 2000srx, I sent you a pm.
I just want to thank everyone for explaining how this is done. Much clearer.
 
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