I`m changing out my gearing to 20/38 now, on stock chain..
I read in another thread, that the chain is supposed to be "fingertight"..
Does this mean that i pull the top gear in drive-rotation so the chain gets straight/tight on the "long side" before i tighten the tensioner with my fingers?
I did it like that, but got a feeling that the chain got too tight this way, so i had to ask...
Ola
I read in another thread, that the chain is supposed to be "fingertight"..
Does this mean that i pull the top gear in drive-rotation so the chain gets straight/tight on the "long side" before i tighten the tensioner with my fingers?
I did it like that, but got a feeling that the chain got too tight this way, so i had to ask...
Ola
Best/easest way to do it, is just pull the belt off. Then the jack shaft will be free to rotate where it needs to be. 
srx dreamer
New member
u dont want the chain tight. make sure it has play in it. just not so much it hits the case. looser the better from what ive heard. finger snug. It seemed to take up the slack evenly on mine, tensioner side and other side without rotating the chain.
If the chain is to loose it can cause chain breakage in rough terain. Because of the load, un-load shock.
Think if it like it's a piece of string. Grasp a piece of string with both hands. Now pull it tight, then try and break the string in half. Then do the same thing only leave some slack in it so it hangs in the middle. Then try and pull it apart. The time it took to take up the slack, allowed more time for a greater load/speed to be applied to the string (chain).
Reason # 2, excess slack allows the chain to walk/curl around the drive sprocket more. This creates a sharper turn for the chain to make as it changes course back towards the tensioner roller. This put more stress on the chain and also robs horsepower. This is the same reason you dont want to small of a top sprocket.
Finger tight on the tensioner bolt is tight enough.
Think if it like it's a piece of string. Grasp a piece of string with both hands. Now pull it tight, then try and break the string in half. Then do the same thing only leave some slack in it so it hangs in the middle. Then try and pull it apart. The time it took to take up the slack, allowed more time for a greater load/speed to be applied to the string (chain).
Reason # 2, excess slack allows the chain to walk/curl around the drive sprocket more. This creates a sharper turn for the chain to make as it changes course back towards the tensioner roller. This put more stress on the chain and also robs horsepower. This is the same reason you dont want to small of a top sprocket.
Finger tight on the tensioner bolt is tight enough.
srx dreamer
New member
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19426&highlight=chain+tension
LIKE I SAID THE LOOSER THE BETTER.
LIKE I SAID THE LOOSER THE BETTER.
I understand what mtnviper is saying and he is correct, but we are not talking about having slack in the chain, just about how much tension should be placed on the chain from the top sprocket to the bottom sprocket, if ya use the 3/4-1" freeplay method it will work flawlessly.
I bought a 2001 srx off a guy brought it home, never rode it didnt need to it only had a few hundred miles on it, was almost new yet and did all the usual mods I do to them, porting,clutching,jetting, oversize wheels in skid, I usually always stick with the stock gearing on a 121" tracked srx so I never opened up the chaincase, anyways, after I completed my tinkering on it, I took the sled out for a test spin and mashed the gas wide open, let off... and almost ate the handlebars, the sled slowed down so rapidly it was just like the brakes were hanging up. Took it into the shop and checked the brake caliper and pads, they were releasing and were not hanging up, but with the sled on a jackstand the track was almost impossible to spin by hand, opened up the chaincase cover and low and behold if ya would have tapped the chain with a peice of steel, would have sounded like a tuning fork, it woulda rang a high note, that chain was banjo string tight in there, so tight it ruined the gears and chain, after replacing the whole works in there and cleaning out the metal shavings she was as good as new and had a whole lot more speed to it. too much tension will slow the sled down when you let off the gas from added drag of rolling resistance around the sprockets. Thats why I like to adjust them with the cover off, once a year I take off the covers and cange the chainlube out anyways, always good to make sure everything is up to snuff in there, nothing ruins a nice ride quicker then a break down.
I bought a 2001 srx off a guy brought it home, never rode it didnt need to it only had a few hundred miles on it, was almost new yet and did all the usual mods I do to them, porting,clutching,jetting, oversize wheels in skid, I usually always stick with the stock gearing on a 121" tracked srx so I never opened up the chaincase, anyways, after I completed my tinkering on it, I took the sled out for a test spin and mashed the gas wide open, let off... and almost ate the handlebars, the sled slowed down so rapidly it was just like the brakes were hanging up. Took it into the shop and checked the brake caliper and pads, they were releasing and were not hanging up, but with the sled on a jackstand the track was almost impossible to spin by hand, opened up the chaincase cover and low and behold if ya would have tapped the chain with a peice of steel, would have sounded like a tuning fork, it woulda rang a high note, that chain was banjo string tight in there, so tight it ruined the gears and chain, after replacing the whole works in there and cleaning out the metal shavings she was as good as new and had a whole lot more speed to it. too much tension will slow the sled down when you let off the gas from added drag of rolling resistance around the sprockets. Thats why I like to adjust them with the cover off, once a year I take off the covers and cange the chainlube out anyways, always good to make sure everything is up to snuff in there, nothing ruins a nice ride quicker then a break down.
I get the idea, i did actualy go back out again on the tension bolt, to let the chain have a little slack..
But Mrviper700; 3/4-1" play? in a metric languange: 2-2,5cm free play on the long side? That is ALOT of free play, since the "other method" people are talking about, makes the chain almost stiff on the long side..
Or am i misunderstanding you?
But Mrviper700; 3/4-1" play? in a metric languange: 2-2,5cm free play on the long side? That is ALOT of free play, since the "other method" people are talking about, makes the chain almost stiff on the long side..
Or am i misunderstanding you?
yamaholic22
Active member
I like to have 1/2" to 3/4" free play on the long side. I believe FINGER TIGHT is too tight, because then there is basically no free play, and as mrviper said you can feel it big time in rolling resistance.
daman
New member
I do about the same 1/2 to 3/4,, seems right in the sweet spot...
xt700
New member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2006
- Messages
- 262
i always did finger tight then loosen 1/2 turn does this sound good?
Pat
Pat
With many things in life, (including snowmobiles) you can go to far, and "the looser the better" is not always a good thing!
That said, I usually adjust mine with the cover and belt off. Everybody's "finger tight" grip is a little different, and mine 's not real good after 28 years of using impact tools! Combine that will the 75-90 wt thats usually on my fingers and finger tight for me is about 1/2" to 3/4" of movement on the back side. (light finger pressue, not slop)
That said, I usually adjust mine with the cover and belt off. Everybody's "finger tight" grip is a little different, and mine 's not real good after 28 years of using impact tools! Combine that will the 75-90 wt thats usually on my fingers and finger tight for me is about 1/2" to 3/4" of movement on the back side. (light finger pressue, not slop)
Wow I have mine way too tight. I just installed reverse and finger tight seemed to tight so I backed up a 1/4 turn and at least I could wiggle the chain, case is back on now so I'll probably back it out another 1/4-1/2 and I should be good.
srx dreamer
New member
How ive always done mine finger tight then back off a 1.4 or half a turn. Like i have said finger tight is to tight. U need slack.
srx dreamer
New member
Mtnviper said:
LOL ya u definitly dont get 1/2 to 3/4 having the bolt finger tight. Always need to back off after fingertight. Like everyone else says finger tight is to tight always go by the deflection method. .
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