indianasrxer
New member
I tore down my 2000 srx 700 suspension and found that my W-arm is almost completely broken in half. This is my first time posting on this site but i have found it extremely useful in the past for other issues. I remember seeing a real nice diagram of where to reinforce the w-arms a year or two ago and im wondering if someone still has that picture.
Thanks Caleb
Thanks Caleb
vibeline
New member
W Arm reinforcement
I took some pics of mine, I broke it in the first 400 miles in 1998.
I put about 10000 on it since then and it is still perfect.
I can't find the cable for my camera at the moment.
I will try to post pics tomorrow
P.S. this fix will add about 5 lbs. to the sled
I took some pics of mine, I broke it in the first 400 miles in 1998.
I put about 10000 on it since then and it is still perfect.
I can't find the cable for my camera at the moment.
I will try to post pics tomorrow
P.S. this fix will add about 5 lbs. to the sled
valin
Active member
I welded strips along the entire side of the arm, and it helped out quite a bit. The OEM arms are built quite poorly. If you want to spend the money, think about purchasing a set of aftermarket ones...alot lighter and alot stronger. You can get some at http://www.mountainperformance.com/yamaha_rear_suspension.htm
Concept Carbon
New member
just get triangles welded over the joints
vibeline
New member
vibeline
New member
pics
PM me your email address I will send full size photos
PM me your email address I will send full size photos
vibeline
New member
vibeline
New member
vibeline
New member
taped throttle
Member
Here is the fix from Betheviper. if you run a search you can find the thread.
"If you are going to do it do it right.
The newest and best looking way that I do them is to drill out the lower end, cut out the corners so you can slide a piece of solid stock up inside. I then spot weld it in through holes that are drilled up the arm. Make sure the arm is on plain before you weld it (twist). After you weld the bar inside, re-weld all of the factory welds.
This is only needed for the inner arms, as this is where the largest strain is from bottoming and from the limiters. All cracks I have seen start on the inner arms.
In the past, I have done some with flat bars welded on the outside with spot welds. These lasted fine but the inners still broke the inner welds.
You could do both ifs your worried.
The lower mount you want to drill it out and buy the long bolt and nut that the rx-1 has in their skid. These do not have the problem with loosening one side. The bolt goes clear through.
Also on the lower mount, make sure and re-weld the ears that help locate and keep it from twisting. I have built a few that I welded an extra ear facing forward for more support. This is a weak point as this is one of two points on the skid that keeps the rails from diomonding when one rail is hit and not the other.
The other thing that will cause all this to screw up is the warm bushings and shock bushings being wore out.
The shock needs to have either bearings or regular rubber bushings installed that are tight.
I used to use bearings but have been using the upper shock bushings from rx1 shocks. They are a few bucks, you will need to take them down a bit on the belt sander to get them in. they are a lot cheaper than the bearings (35 to do one shock) shim tight the new bushings in your w-arm and install grease fittings in the lower mounts.
What happens when the shock and or w arm bushings are worn out is that the w arm bends around the bumper before the shock bumper brings up to take the load.
The skid was designed to have the w-arm bumpers and shock bottom out at the same time to share the load. The other thing that happens is when things are loose, things vibrate, and pound and beat cracked or loosens parts to even worse condition. The other thing that happens is your sled does not handle good. The w-arm is the only thing with strength that keeps your rails parallel with the frame of the sled. Also the shock with loose bushings is like having a shock with no valving for 1-2in of travel.
Obviously, this is not good.
Tight bushings = better ride, better handling, longer life, bigger smile."
"If you are going to do it do it right.
The newest and best looking way that I do them is to drill out the lower end, cut out the corners so you can slide a piece of solid stock up inside. I then spot weld it in through holes that are drilled up the arm. Make sure the arm is on plain before you weld it (twist). After you weld the bar inside, re-weld all of the factory welds.
This is only needed for the inner arms, as this is where the largest strain is from bottoming and from the limiters. All cracks I have seen start on the inner arms.
In the past, I have done some with flat bars welded on the outside with spot welds. These lasted fine but the inners still broke the inner welds.
You could do both ifs your worried.
The lower mount you want to drill it out and buy the long bolt and nut that the rx-1 has in their skid. These do not have the problem with loosening one side. The bolt goes clear through.
Also on the lower mount, make sure and re-weld the ears that help locate and keep it from twisting. I have built a few that I welded an extra ear facing forward for more support. This is a weak point as this is one of two points on the skid that keeps the rails from diomonding when one rail is hit and not the other.
The other thing that will cause all this to screw up is the warm bushings and shock bushings being wore out.
The shock needs to have either bearings or regular rubber bushings installed that are tight.
I used to use bearings but have been using the upper shock bushings from rx1 shocks. They are a few bucks, you will need to take them down a bit on the belt sander to get them in. they are a lot cheaper than the bearings (35 to do one shock) shim tight the new bushings in your w-arm and install grease fittings in the lower mounts.
What happens when the shock and or w arm bushings are worn out is that the w arm bends around the bumper before the shock bumper brings up to take the load.
The skid was designed to have the w-arm bumpers and shock bottom out at the same time to share the load. The other thing that happens is when things are loose, things vibrate, and pound and beat cracked or loosens parts to even worse condition. The other thing that happens is your sled does not handle good. The w-arm is the only thing with strength that keeps your rails parallel with the frame of the sled. Also the shock with loose bushings is like having a shock with no valving for 1-2in of travel.
Obviously, this is not good.
Tight bushings = better ride, better handling, longer life, bigger smile."
indianasrxer
New member
Thanks for all the input guys this gives me a better idea of where the stress points are. I think im going to just weld mine up and reinforce it i dont really have the money right now to buy a new one i just spent my money on a 79 srx 440.
Caleb
Caleb
I see this is an old posting but this note will help those with the problem permanently.
Use chromemoly tubing. it's lighter and stronger than aluminum. Just chop out and replace anything steel with it. No angle iron or cold rolled steel is a match for chromemoly.
It also has memory to spring back if attempted to bend.
All Honda motorcycle frames are chromemoly. You cannot gas torch weld chromemoly.
Last mission building drag bikes over 250hp, chromemoly was about $10 bucks a foot. Could be more now.
Use chromemoly tubing. it's lighter and stronger than aluminum. Just chop out and replace anything steel with it. No angle iron or cold rolled steel is a match for chromemoly.
It also has memory to spring back if attempted to bend.
All Honda motorcycle frames are chromemoly. You cannot gas torch weld chromemoly.
Last mission building drag bikes over 250hp, chromemoly was about $10 bucks a foot. Could be more now.