Any tips on engine removal?

srxz

srxz

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Joined
Jan 4, 2004
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Location
Georgian Bay
I am going to be taking the motor out of my 01 srx for a rebuild and wanted to know if anyone had some good tips or procedures to make things go smoothly, also what to look for when removing the primary. Thanks, great site.
 

re & re

First, get beer & some good tunes going...make sure you have a manual and a digital camera...I use egg crates to place my parts in and zip lock bags for the bigger pieces...take pics before disassembly and label all your parts. Read up on how things come apart, cause you do not want to be banging anything that you shouldn’t like the crank…get proper pullers and such. As you take thing apart, take the time to clean them up, inspect them and if you need to replace them, then log it in a notebook…remember after the crank is out and you cleaned it up, don’t let it sit around long, cause it’s going to rust- so lube it up ( not syn oil, use reg 2 cycle yamilube ). This is just the start of things…so good luck…
 
all good points, but if you are only freshening up the top end....cylinders on up....removal is not necessary.

coolant makes the biggest mess so draining as much as possible before starting disass. is a good start.
 
Good idea about the beer and camera. I am doing the bottom end as well, want to check the crank and seals. I will be keeping this sled for a while, too much fun!
 
If you are taking the engine out, be prepared to say some pretty creative swears when getting the oil cable off. They can be a pain lots of times. Other then that, it is a not so difficult task. Take the pipes off first. Then if you can get a little pan under the header pipes and pull out the drain plug on the upper right side of your water pump cover. Then just keep filling a bigger container with the little bin so you dont make a mess. Take off the primary if possible. Then take off the airbox, carbs (3 fuel lines, 2 coolant lines, throttle and choke cables) then you can get at the vacuum line on the block and take that off. Also take off the main oil line (not all of them) thne once you get all the six engine mount bolts out, take off the cross bar on the pull start side so you get some movement. Now try to tilt the engine as best you can and you may need two people but get the oil cable line off. Once you do that, there will be your main coolant hose that you still need to take off from either the bottom of the coolant tank or off the water pump cover. Then you can take off your power valves as you probably want to clean them anyway. You SHOULD be able to take it out from there. If I missed anything please throw it in there. Thanks

-Matt
 
ya gotta remove the right side frame top rail its held on with numerous bolts on top and sides, then theres 4 bolts for the motor mounts, you have to REMOVE the primary clutch from the engine as it wont come out thru the frame with it on. Remove the carbs and airbox and fuel/oil lines, next remove the waterpump lower hose from cover,then simply tilt the engine forward and remove the oiltank line and disconnect the oilpump cable.

the checking of the wiring harness is a important one, if its not rubbed thru it will be!! check it and place the harness in automotive black convolute tubing before putting the engine back in.
 
Now would be a good time to take apart the lower steering post bushing. And lube it with a little bit of grease. On mine, the steering post would bind after riding the sled for awhile. When I took it apart, the steering post was rusty and wearing the nylon bushing.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. Everything went better than I thought. Engine is in the truck ready to be dropped off. You are right though, the oil pump cable was the biggest pain. Now, who wants to put that sucker back in(LOL)? I will keep you posted.
 
Install

I'm going through this myself but its a viper. Check this
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27500
I am still waiting on a few parts and will install next week, I will take pics of complete rebuilt engine and empty engine bay and then a few more when re-installing is going back together up until it breathes a little life…Are you doing this rebuild yourself or are you sending it out, cause when you are ready to take the jugs off her-get a second case of brew cause your gonna need it...LoL...be careful when you come to take the jugs off...don't be tempted to pry them off just a steady wrap from a plastic hammer from side to side and front to back, like rocking motion and they will work lose from the stud bolts...work the base gasket off gently, cause you may be able to reuse with a little spray tack…When you get ready to reassemble this beast get on line let us know…We will share info…good luck man…A fare rate of beer consumption on a project like this is one per half hour…you know things are going your way… :rofl:
 
Just for future info, it is WAY easier to disconnect the oil cable at the handlebar and remove it with the engine.

Tom
 
Tombis said:
Just for future info, it is WAY easier to disconnect the oil cable at the handlebar and remove it with the engine.

Tom
Click to expand...

That is exactly what i was just going to say. There is no reason to take it off, just take the cable with the engine, coil it up nice with some nylon straps so its not in the way when you're working on it.
 
Well, I had the motor pulled apart and good thing we checked the bottom end. The top end needs rings(blow-by on pistons) everything else on top o.k. But the crank seal on pto side is ready to fall out! My engine guy says motor could of leaned out any time and went kaboom! Glad i went ahead and checked everything, avoiding a disaster.
 
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