last years fuel?????

nosboy

nosboy

VIP Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
2,107
Age
63
Location
CHICAGO
I ve been talking about NITROUS and alcohols and fuels for YEARS on this forum, but I don't think I've went off on the LAST YEARS FUEL subject,,, Well,,, here it goes.....I will try and make it "user friendly" instead of getting too technical.....FUEL, (gasoline) that is FRESHLY refined,,,USUALLY stays in the holding tanks for about a week. Considering FRESH FUEL usually (and I will explain "usually) lasts for a MONTH, you have approximately 3 weeks from the time it gets to the filling station.... In the summer, fuel is designed to atomize at around 40 degrees, in the winter, it is designed to atomize at around 20 below zero,,, NOW DIFFERENT AREAS HAVE DIFFERENT atomization points, i am talking "chicago" winters,, if you use a "winter fuel" in the summertime, the fuel will atomize in the fuel line and create an "air pocket" or VAPOR LOCK in the fuel line (usually the hottest part of the fuel line) so,,, different additives are a MUST... Considering that the atomization or "vapor point" is different in the summer and winter,, the WINTER fuel will atomize MORE RAPIDLY in the WARMER WEATHER... Now,,, here's the scenario,,, its MARCH 10th and you are on your "last ride" of the winter,,, Naturally you fill up your sled with WINTER FUEL and put a can of stabil or seafoam or 2=4 conditioner (which slows down the atomization process) Considering you have a tank FULL of HIGHLY ATOMIZATIONABLE fuel,,, NATURALLY, the stabilizer that you put in JUST changed it from a winter to a SUMMER FUEL (charicteristically)... NEEDLESS TO SAY,,, the FUEL IS STILL VAPORIZING,,, but not as fast as "winter blend" does... When OCTOBER rolls around, people usually notice MOST of their "full tank" has VANISHED Through the vented fuel tank and the summer heat cycles... SOME PEOPLE,, (present company INCLUDED) SIPHON that NASTY GARBAGE out of the fuel tank and fill the sled with OCTOBER FUEL (lets call it "fall fuel") We start our sleds (AFTER 40 pulls(another bad idea) )when its around 50 or 60 outside, and it SMOKES UP THE NEIGHBORHOOD!!!! Theres a real good idea , somewhat troublesome, but a GOOD IDEA,, is when its your last ride of the season, pull your fuel line off your fuel tank, DRAIN THE TANK, put another piece of tubing with a connector to the fuel line going to the fuel pump, and STICK IT IN A quart of AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.... CONTINUE to run the sled until the ATF gets sucked into the engine and the fuel system.. THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID in your CARBS will keep them FRESH AS NEW ALL SUMMER, the ATF in your combustion chambers will EAT AWAY YOUR CARBON BUILDUP and the ATF will soften up your SLUDGE on your powervalves.. ATF is HIGHLY DETERGENT!!!! Did you ever see an ATF leak on a car??? PRETTY CLEAN where its been leaking HUH????? YES,,, you will have a HECK of a time trying to get your sled running in the fall,,, but,,, the ATF will not give you 40 DRY PULLS( they will be lubricated) and you could take the plugs out a couple of times and drip GAS AND OIL MIX into the cylinders to get her running again.. YOUR CARBS WILL LOOK BRAND NEW inside,your combustion chambers will be CLEAN,, your motor WILL BE FOGGED ALL WINTER and YOU WILL NOT have to take your CARBS OFF or your powervalves out in NOVEMBER!!!!! YES,, YOU WILL SMOKE UP THE NEIGHBORHOOD and it will smell like BURNING ATF,,,but,,, LOOK AT THE TIME YOU SAVED!!!!! You won't be putting YEAR OLD CRAPPY fuel through your sled and your stuff will run like NEW!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 

The attention defecit disorder (add) really screws with me.. this post was supposed to be about FUEL lasting a MONTH before it turns to garbage... Fuel with 10% methanol lasts LESS THAN A MONTH before it starts it's process.... I gotta go eat dinner now,,, maybe I will post the "your gas lasts a month" topic tomorrow!!!! Sorry guys... Gary Oles nosboy
 
Always good to use pre-mix(down the plug holes) in the fall,winter to fire the sled up for the first time,easer on the cyls. and your back!!!!

she lights in 2-3 pulls... ;)!
 
Wow-- I must have missed out on the discussion!! Draining the tank and running them until dry works but is a pain in the backside. I tried the stabil thing and lost plugs left,right and down the middle. Then a buddy convinced me to try FITCH FUEL CATALYSTS and no more problem. 45 or 50 bucks per sled seems like a lot of money but it works for me. Find them at Hi-Performance Engineering, www.hiperf.com.
 
Thats all I have to say about Fitch fuel catalyst is two words,,," SACRIFICIAL ANODE" Go to the OUTBOARD motor store and look somewhere on the tail section of an outboard motor and you will find something that USUALLY looks like a piece of LEAD bolted to the tail section... You could order one from the outboard dealer and have enough to last 10 years (providing you pull it out once a year and clean it with a wire wheel or a wire brush!!!).. The sacrificial anode theory CONTROLS the galvanic reaction between dissimiliar metals , thus protecting your aluminum/brass pieces in your carb,,,BUT it does NOTHING for the "cylinder wall" corrosion like ATF or FOGGING OIL DOES!!!! The sacrificial anode theory is NOTHING NEW, boats have been using it for a LONG TIME!!! I AM NOT SAYING 'DONT BUY A SACRIFICIAL ANODE" and I am NOT BADRAPPING FITCH!!!!!! adapting it for snowmobile use was a STELLAR IDEA!!!! It just takes a LITTLE MORE than FUEL CATALYST to store your sled!!!! EVEN WITH a fuel catalyst or a piece of sacrificial anode, your fuel STILL EVAPORATES all summer, and the garbage left that doesn't evaporate is STILL BAD to run through your motor CATALYST OR NOT!!!!a $40.00 piece of anode or a $5.00 can of stabil????? YES,,, the ande will do a LOT OF THINGS that the stabil WON'T DO,,, But draining your fuel tank and a $2.00 quart of ATF will save your carbs, fog your motor, and BEST OF ALL,,SOFTEN and CLEAN your ENTIRE combustion area, exhaust valves and EVERYTHING!!!! a couple of pieces of clear tubing a connector and a quart of ATF will work wonders!!! You could use the tubing and connector for YEARS TO COME!!!! as far as THROWING A FITCH fuel catalyst thingy in your tank and running it ALL YEAR,,,,VERY GOOD IDEA!!!! It keeps your carbs from galvanically reacting with moisture in fuel and keeps the MONSTERS out of your float bowls!!! wich is a GOOD THING. if you ever picked up a piece of junk in a main jet and melted down a cylinder on that frozen lake you'd KNOW WHAT I MEAN!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
WE could get into Ph balances,acidics and alkylines, negative ionization,,,,, OH MY GOD!!!!!!!! ITS A SNOWMOBILE not a SPACESHIP!!!! How about the EMOLLIENTS in your RUBBER parts in your FUEL SYSTEM???? LETS GO THERE if you will,,,, ETHANOL or METHANOL or EVEN ISOPROPYL alcohol absolutely HATES rubber emolients... an emollient is the lubricant (if you will) that keeps rubber plyable... rubber fuel lines and o rings deteriorate RAPIDLY under "envoirnmentally correct" fuels (the fuels that contain 10% methanol).. The ATF helps and replentishes SOME of the emolients in the rubber that the FUEL DESTROYES!!!! as far as putting a bottle of "heet" in your tank,,, I've done posts about that stuff,, as far as iso-heet is concerned,,,well,, lets JUST SAY,,, BUY your gasoline from someone who sells a LOT OF GAS every week and NOT from that marina that sells whats left of their SUMMER BOAT GAS and you SHOULD BE FINE!!!! WATER USUALLY freezes in little white chunks in your sleds fuel tank in the winter and usually stays put all winter!!! You REALLY don't usually have a problem with moisture in the fuel when it's 10 below outside!!!!CONTRARY to what people say!!!! Maybe on newer fuel injected sleds the fuel circulates through the injector (like cars do) and gets heated up a little by the engine,,,but,, I DON'T THINK SO!!!!! seeya Gary Oles nosboy
 
I have used atf as a fuel cleaner before on an old car. suck it through a vac line till it dies, let it sit a while, and fire it back up. does work well, and IS HIGHLY detergent :) good thread, lots of usefull info as usual :) thanks!
 
I pulled my carbs out and cleaned them (as thoroughly as I am capable of). I'm hopefully going to be firing it for the first time maybe this week if I get it all back together (and get a couple of questions answered...) Is this something I should look at doing now or should I wait until I'm done for the year since I already cleaned them?
 
It really isnt HARD to clean a carb, and by the time you get done with the third one, you've ALMOT become an EXPERT at it... there are only SO MANY parts and they can only go together a FEW WAYS (just kidding).. a thorough cleaning should suffice Providing you do a GOOD CLEANING.. A gallon of HYDRO SEAL works WAY BETTER than a can of gummout does and TORCH TIP CLEANERS through your pilot jets and main jets also help!!! A LONG time ago I had a friend that rebuilt some carter carbs for his 70 dart 340 with a BLOWER!!! He left the carbs in TOO LONG and it ATE AWAY the bores for the accelerator pumps and we COULDNT figure out WHY the motor had a BAD BOG!!! FINALLY AFTER rebuilding them a half a dozen times,, SOMEONE decided to measure the accelerator pump bores and THERE IT WAS!!!!.. I just had to tell that story,,, Getting back to the ATF thing.. USUALLY the ATF has to be in there for a WHILE (like a few months) for you to get the total effect.. Just sucking it through a vacuum line (like a previous post) will work well on a 4 stroke,,, TWO STROKES have a LITTLE different "crud" or should I say,, needs a little more time with the ATF.. There is a product that they use on COMBUSTION chambers. Its called MARINE MOTOR DECARB. I wouldn't spray that into your sled and let it sit for any period of time.. Its JUST TOO STRONG!!!! TOO VIOLENT!!!! I'm NOT going to recommend that idea,,, I kinda like the ATF sucked into your fuel system until your motor starts trying to burn it and it kills your engine!!! A HOT MOTOR flooded with ATF for the summer months SAVES YOU from doing all that cleaning and prepping for the start of NEXT WINTER!!! There is stuff by Yamaha called RING FREE and also stuff called SEA FOAM that you could ADD ALL WINTER or MAYBE EVERY FEW TANKFULLS that will HELP DRAMATICALLY with your carbon buildup and help with keeping your carbs clean... but there are also DETERGENT GASOLINES that ALSO help with that (mobil super unleaded!!!) You could always use RACING FUEL also... its around $10.00 a gallon (for VP c 14) BUT race fuel (in a closed container) DOES NOT experience the SAME DECOMPOSITION CHARACTERISTICS as REGULAR (or super) gasoline does!!!! Race fuel, because of its TETRAETHYL lead content, TURNS BLACK when it is EXPOSED to SUNLIGHT!!!! Because of it's HIGH VAPORIZATION POINT, it doesn't evaporate as easily either... THE BAD PART IS>>>>>> If you try and start your sled when its ZERO outside,, IT WILL FLOOD your motor REAL BAD and you probably NEVER get it started until the summertime... Race fuel DOESN'T work well in the wintertime!!!! ESpecially in a sled that is designed for 93 octane fuel... NOW 100LL (one hundred LOW LEAD) from the local airport DOES HAVE the additives you are looking for in the wintertime,,, BUT,,, 100ll is HARD TO GET because the airports DO NOT PAY federal government MOTOR FUEL TAXES (MFT) and there is a WHOLE OTHER story about sleds and MFT's!!!! You could buy it for OFF ROAD USE ONLY,,, BUT,,,,the airport people USUALLY think you want to put it in your CAR and they don't want to get into trouble selling it to you.. There is also probably some CRAP with the airports SECURITY nowdays,,, so,,, lets say its REAL HARD to get!!! The race fuels in the 5 gallon cans are designed for SUMMER USE race cars and DO NOT work well in the wintertime...Octane boosters,, you have to watch yourself and DON't put too much and try and raise MORE that 8 points,, THATS A WHOLE OTHER THREAD!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
I read through these threads after I write them , I think you could tell that I read a LOT OF BOOKS and ALSO smoked a LOT OF REEFER. I'm just trying to remember if it was MORE books than REEFER or MORE REEFER than books????? I think THE LATTER!!!! WHAT DO YOU THINK????? Gary Oles nosboy
 
Wow, I'm sure the answer to my question is in there somewhere..... I think it was if I did a good job, I should be ok for this season and then at the end of next, try the ATF. I noticed alot of very yellow looking "liquid" coming out of the carbs when I took them off.
 
anyone have a nice "how to" with pics for carb cleaning? if it was for a viper, all the better lol!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top