Vmax Al
New member
'00 Vmax 700, 10k miles
When I was disassembling to perform the reed notch modification I found that the top brkt. on the reed cage on the pull side of the motor was cracked in the area shown in the picture. Does anyone know what causes this and should I be replacing the others that aren't cracked?
Also I noticed on the center cylinder that the reed petals weren't laying perfectly flat on the top side, that the tip was lifting on the center petal and some on the left one. Should these be replaced? Does anybody recommend anything other than stock?
Thanks,
Al
When I was disassembling to perform the reed notch modification I found that the top brkt. on the reed cage on the pull side of the motor was cracked in the area shown in the picture. Does anyone know what causes this and should I be replacing the others that aren't cracked?
Also I noticed on the center cylinder that the reed petals weren't laying perfectly flat on the top side, that the tip was lifting on the center petal and some on the left one. Should these be replaced? Does anybody recommend anything other than stock?
Thanks,
Al
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Reeds
O.E.M.'s are cheap, replace them all...one of the most moving part in a two stroke engine under heat and pressure...there has been alot of debate on v2, v3 force reeds and what I make out of it there was not much, if any gains from the extra cost...stay oem, and your good to go...
O.E.M.'s are cheap, replace them all...one of the most moving part in a two stroke engine under heat and pressure...there has been alot of debate on v2, v3 force reeds and what I make out of it there was not much, if any gains from the extra cost...stay oem, and your good to go...
daman
New member
I agree,,replace ALL with OEM....
there was talk on here last year about this problem. Apparently there are updated parts available? Something about stainless steel rings a bell. I'm sure someone who knows more will chime in shortly.
That's the exact reason I went with reed spacers instead of the notch. Why would one make a piece that has known to crack thinner? The 60 or so bucks for the spacers is a lot cheaper than a cylinder, piston, rings, case, crank. etc., etc. I check all my reed cages every season when I clean the carbs for extra assurance. I did find one with a crack like you are describing last fall.
That's the exact reason I went with reed spacers instead of the notch. Why would one make a piece that has known to crack thinner? The 60 or so bucks for the spacers is a lot cheaper than a cylinder, piston, rings, case, crank. etc., etc. I check all my reed cages every season when I clean the carbs for extra assurance. I did find one with a crack like you are describing last fall.
Vmax Al
New member
The crack is no where near the notch so that doesn't concern me. The crack is definitely at a fatigue area, just never thought there was much load on a reed stopper!
I just ordered a replacement ($3.60) and there is an updated part they have in place of the original.
I also ordered new reeds, should I replace all or just the ones that don't look to lay flat? I ordered all 6 but at +$7 each I could save a little by not doing them all? I see daman says yes to all.
Thnx for the input!
Al
I just ordered a replacement ($3.60) and there is an updated part they have in place of the original.
I also ordered new reeds, should I replace all or just the ones that don't look to lay flat? I ordered all 6 but at +$7 each I could save a little by not doing them all? I see daman says yes to all.
Thnx for the input!
Al
I did all mine when i did it. Figured if one or two are cracked then the others might be next. And with that milage I would do all the reed pedals too.
cheap and easy,
Tod
cheap and easy,
Tod
daman
New member
I dumped the $$ and did all on mine, i sleep good at night now too.....
yamaholic22
Active member
yup do them all, or the others will be right behind it for failure.