Need traction without studs/modification

S

SLEDuluth

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Aug 28, 2006
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I really hate to add another "what's the best track" thread, but there are a few questions I have that haven't been answered by the searching I've done.

I have a 98 SRX 600 w/ no mods, but I've gone through the entire machine so it should be making showroom floor power. The only changes that have been made were fixing and reinforcing the w-arm and the fixed crank. I only plan to clutch it (according to Turk's "trail" specs) and add adjustable transfer rods for this season... and add a new track, which brings me to my question.

I really can't stud the track because there is a local paved trail that I will be riding quite a bit that prohibits studs. So, since the pro- action rear suspension supposedly can't transfer weight for #@%* I need some traction without studs. I am looking for suggestions for a track that will hookup on hardpacked trails, which should be most of what I'll be riding on. And will also hold up for a long time.
Also, aside from taking the front heat exchanger guard(s) off and the tunnel protectors I don't want to make any modifications. Such as changing to 8 tooth drivers or clipping lugs.

The tracks I've been looking at include the ripsaw,hacksaw,predator, shotgun(all 1.25), and ripsaw 1.5 (which I doubt will work without mods).

I really don't like they idea of spending $3-400 on myself right before christmas but my track is shot and I'd like to do it right the first time so any help is greatly appreciated.
 

Do what I do. Just say #$%&* on it and spend the money.That's why they invented charge cards for. I have been buying so many things for my sled and I got the Visa bills to prove it. As long as you have a steady income,you will pay it off eventually. See I can't wait to get stuff for my sled,if I need them I go for it.I am not rich,just a little crazy about sledding.You only live once....enjoy it until you crash and burn.
 
If you ride loose trails and powder get the 1.25 predator.For a better packed snow and a track with tremendous overall grip especially side bite get the ripsaw 1.25.You will have to take your front tunnel protectors off, I took the top ones out also, but I am not sure that I needed to.I have ran both of these tracks and for trail riding with the predator I felt that I still wanted studs on really packed corners and such, but I don't feel that way with the ripsaw, its very impressive overall as is.That would be especially good for yoy seeing you can't run studs from what you said.
 
I would definitely go with the predator 1.25 track as it hooks up incredibly on powder or on hardpack. It will take a little off the top end as opposed to your stock track but you will be very happy with the track. Send me a PM if you are interested in a track and I can give you a great price on it. Thanks and hope this helps.
 
Another thing I thought of in regards to durability as you stated is don't spin it if possible.The ripsaw seems to be a durable and well built track, but spinning is a biggie, especially if you catch something solid in or under the snow.This rips lugs off quicker than anything.In my experience you can get excellent life out of any old track if you treat it with respect, besides your not going anywhere when your spinning anyways.My sled hooks up great with the ripsaw even though I have an m-10 which you probably know is'nt known for its transfer.
 
Spinning?????????????????????????????????

How the hell are you going to stop the spinning when you punch it.If you launched it and it had perfect traction,you would lift the front end so high and flip over. My wifes uncle on his 2003 RX1 tells me when he launches his front end is up some 45 degrees(not the front end that you might be thinking of)but the front end of the sled.LMAO
 
please stay away from the ripsaw(ripjunk) and get a predator 1.25, the ripsaws are very flimsy and non durable I had an ripjunk that lasted 600 miles before the lugs started coming off and have 4,800 miles on my predator and it looks the same as it did the day I put it on!!
 
My ripsaw has about 3500 miles on it and is still good.Depends where you ride and what you do when you ride in rough terrain.Have maybe 2 partial tips missing on a couple of lugs,but when you are reving out wot,don't be foolish and do it where there are stones,rocks,debris of that nature under you.Rough ice coditions could chew up track to.
 
3450 miles on my last ripsaw and it looked like new. Don't spin the track and both the track and the trails last longer!

You can run upto a 1.50" track - all you need to do is remove the tunnel strips and any heat exchanger protectors if there are any.

Good Luck! :)
 
1.25 Predator is my top choice, do a search on this topic and youll find a bunch of opinions. But it ALL COMES DOWN TO WHAT KINDA CONDITIONS YOU RIDE IN MOST. I'm trail and off trail and wont ride if theres SNIRT or min. snow conditions.
 
xsivhp said:
Besides - if your track is spinning you're not going any faster doing it anyway.
Click to expand...


Very true and just burning gas for nothing, unless you just like to hear your motor rev. And if thats the case jack if off the ground and rev away. :2strokes:
 
Thanks for your opinions guys, I really appreciate the help. Although I'm still considering the 1.25 ripsaw, I think I'm going to go w/ the 1.25 predator since it sounds like there's a better chance it'll hold up long term.

2000srx: sent you a pm
 
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