snow guy
New member
I'm having trouble getting to the needle clip because I can't get the linkage rod and throttle spring assembly out of the way. Can someone tell me the trick? It doesn't look like I can take the slide out unless I take the rod out. I was able to do this to the outer carbs as they just slid off the rod, but the center carb has all the linkage bs attached to it and I can't see how to get it loose. Help!
It is not necessary to remove the carburetors from the machine or from the rack to change the needle position. You will need to purchase a BONDHUS 2.5mm ball nosed allen wrench (the long one)to do this procedure. If you do this very often you will want to purchase a set of knurled thumb screws from Northern Lites @ http://nlites.com/ to replace the screws that hold the top covers of the carburetors. They look kind of cool anyway and work great!!
1. Remove the two screws that hold the top cover of the carb you wish to adjust. Put them someplace safe. Remove the top of the carb.
2. Remove the Phillips head screw that holds the arm to the shaft. Make sure your screwdriver fits this screw nicely. Don't strip the head!! The slide will now move freely up and down but you will not be able to lift it out.
3. Using the new BONDHUS tool, reach down on top of the slide and completely loosen the two allen headed screws that attach the linkage from the arm to the top of the slide. Don't try to remove the screws individually.
4. Very carefully lift the arm and linkage to the slide, with the allen screws in their holes, up and out of the carburetor. IMPORTANT! Watch for the plastic needle shims that may be stuck to the bottom of the linkage!!
5. Flip the link over and let it hang with the screws in it. Keep your fingers on the screws while you do this so they don't take off. If you don't you will hate yourself!!
6. Lift the slide out of the carb and make your needle adjustment, noting the placement of shims according to the Yamaha Needle Jet adjustment chart for your machine or any instructions you might have received with aftermarket performance parts.
7. Place the slide back in the carburetor. Don't drop it in. The needle may jump out.
8. Now flip the arm back over with your fingers on the screws and let the linkage down on top of the slide.
9. With the BONDHUS allen wrench tighten the two screws that attach the linkage to the slide.
10. Replace and tighten the Phillips headed screw that attaches the arm to the shaft. Don't over tighten it. They seem to be a little soft.
11. Reinstall the top of the carburetor and tighten the two screws that hold it down.
12. One down and two to go!! This may seem like a pain, but after a couple of practice runs you'll be a PRO at it.
Oh, one last piece of advice. When you get a chance, buy a few extra of the allen head screws that hold the linkage to slide, a few extra plastic washers for the needle and a few spare circlips for the needle. That stuff is CHEAP and the day comes when, yes you guessed it , one of them disappears. Put them in a plastic bag in a secret place that only you know about or your buddies will want to take advantage of your stash. Good luck!!
1. Remove the two screws that hold the top cover of the carb you wish to adjust. Put them someplace safe. Remove the top of the carb.
2. Remove the Phillips head screw that holds the arm to the shaft. Make sure your screwdriver fits this screw nicely. Don't strip the head!! The slide will now move freely up and down but you will not be able to lift it out.
3. Using the new BONDHUS tool, reach down on top of the slide and completely loosen the two allen headed screws that attach the linkage from the arm to the top of the slide. Don't try to remove the screws individually.
4. Very carefully lift the arm and linkage to the slide, with the allen screws in their holes, up and out of the carburetor. IMPORTANT! Watch for the plastic needle shims that may be stuck to the bottom of the linkage!!
5. Flip the link over and let it hang with the screws in it. Keep your fingers on the screws while you do this so they don't take off. If you don't you will hate yourself!!
6. Lift the slide out of the carb and make your needle adjustment, noting the placement of shims according to the Yamaha Needle Jet adjustment chart for your machine or any instructions you might have received with aftermarket performance parts.
7. Place the slide back in the carburetor. Don't drop it in. The needle may jump out.
8. Now flip the arm back over with your fingers on the screws and let the linkage down on top of the slide.
9. With the BONDHUS allen wrench tighten the two screws that attach the linkage to the slide.
10. Replace and tighten the Phillips headed screw that attaches the arm to the shaft. Don't over tighten it. They seem to be a little soft.
11. Reinstall the top of the carburetor and tighten the two screws that hold it down.
12. One down and two to go!! This may seem like a pain, but after a couple of practice runs you'll be a PRO at it.
Oh, one last piece of advice. When you get a chance, buy a few extra of the allen head screws that hold the linkage to slide, a few extra plastic washers for the needle and a few spare circlips for the needle. That stuff is CHEAP and the day comes when, yes you guessed it , one of them disappears. Put them in a plastic bag in a secret place that only you know about or your buddies will want to take advantage of your stash. Good luck!!
snow guy
New member
Thanks for the play by play it's great. I just got everything back together today after taking the carbs out and basically tearing them apart. I see what you are saying about removing the top cover and going after the slides from there and that works, except for the center carb. It has a wider, fatter, aluminum linkage arm where the outer two carbs have a thin metal linkage. The problem with the middle one is that even with disconnecting it as you say and rotating the slide up, the one screw is still completely hidden, I mean completely, there is no way to get to it no matter what kind of allen wrench you have. The only way I was able to get to it was to take the carbs out completely and slide the linkage rod out from the carb. Once you get that far you've got all the carbs out and there is no trick in getting to the other two when they are out.
Do MM700, it's an'00, have different carb linkage that what you're familiar with? I sure wish there was a different way, maybe I'm missing something but I'm not seeing it. Thanks a bunch for your relpy.
Do MM700, it's an'00, have different carb linkage that what you're familiar with? I sure wish there was a different way, maybe I'm missing something but I'm not seeing it. Thanks a bunch for your relpy.
you take one allen bolt loose with the slide closed and the other with it open. It will work if you have the ball end allen wrench. Maxdlx
I'm playing with a '99 mountain max. I don't think that it is much different than yours. The comment that maxdlx made is correct. The ball nose is the key.
I know it's a pain, but hauling the carbs out and dissasembling them is to. Glad I could help.
I know it's a pain, but hauling the carbs out and dissasembling them is to. Glad I could help.
resinking the carbs is alot worse than getting the center needle out. Maxdlx
..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
done it that way many times, with the ball end allen & like Max says