rancidjo
New member
viper coolant bleeding- new ?'s added
I had my engine out this fall. Now I am getting it going and tuned for this winter. I have bleed the back by lifting it way up. It seems to me like the running board exchangers are still running hot. I may be just paronoid but I want to make sure I get this right. Lifted it up, ran it, bled out air few times...now no more air, but when the sled is running the coolant only drips out, is this normal or shoud it be shooting out of there. Also I could not get any air or coolant out of the bleed hole on the head. Going to try and pull the valve out a little tonite to see if that works (as per another post on here). Do I have to take the bolt out at the bottom of the valve to wiggle the valve out or just the top one. Also is there anyway to test the heat sensor so I know it will work when I get on the trail to prevent burndown. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had my engine out this fall. Now I am getting it going and tuned for this winter. I have bleed the back by lifting it way up. It seems to me like the running board exchangers are still running hot. I may be just paronoid but I want to make sure I get this right. Lifted it up, ran it, bled out air few times...now no more air, but when the sled is running the coolant only drips out, is this normal or shoud it be shooting out of there. Also I could not get any air or coolant out of the bleed hole on the head. Going to try and pull the valve out a little tonite to see if that works (as per another post on here). Do I have to take the bolt out at the bottom of the valve to wiggle the valve out or just the top one. Also is there anyway to test the heat sensor so I know it will work when I get on the trail to prevent burndown. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Run the sled up an incline. I use the trailer and loading ramp. Run it up so the front is way high. Loosen the pressure cap and run it till everything warms up good and you see no more bubbles in overflow tank. Works good for me. While you are at it, replace the thermostate. Have had a couple go bad on me.
rancidjo
New member
thanks for the tip...was thinking of replacing the thermostat while i was at it
change_up
New member
Yea... when snomoguy says put the front end up... he means up. I ran mine up a snow bank on a good enough angle so that the bottom of the skis were higher than the top of the seat. If there's air in the system, you will really hear it coming up. Afterwards you should be able to run it and get any small air bubbles out within a couple hours.
Allvipedup
New member
Another sure way to get it done is to loosen the carb heater on.off switch. Pull it out just enough to expose the hole. Start her up and watch. If it is still trickling or bubbling be patient it'll work out and once it's flowing steady...it's burped.
This is messy, so get a cup or bucket to catch the discharged coolant. IT WORKS WELL and is quicker then the other methods.
This is messy, so get a cup or bucket to catch the discharged coolant. IT WORKS WELL and is quicker then the other methods.
rancidjo
New member
Another couple of questions:
Is there better coolants then others? Can I get away by using some el' cheapo wal-mart brand that I have sitting on my garage shelf or should I buy some new stuff? What is the most recommended brand (is prestone ok?)? Is there any reasons not to use a "water wetter" product?
Is there better coolants then others? Can I get away by using some el' cheapo wal-mart brand that I have sitting on my garage shelf or should I buy some new stuff? What is the most recommended brand (is prestone ok?)? Is there any reasons not to use a "water wetter" product?
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1badz
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2005
- Messages
- 179
Allvipedup said:
A couple of questions. Was search here, so may as well continue in this thread.
1. What do you have to do to loosen the carb heater switch. Does the nut on the bottom hold it in place?
2. My on / off switch is very stiff ( almost sounds perverted ). Can I do any damage to anything turning it with a pair of pliers?
Thanks
Concept Carbon
New member
I believe you have to remove the not on the bottom.
also for bledding i hav eflushed my system and changed my rear exchanger. and i found it real easy. i just lifted the back so the back of the track is about 5" off the ground filled the reservoir with the bleed screw in the back off. untill i can see the fluid come up to the hole fo rthe bleed screw. then I lower the back and the fluid squirts out put the bleed screw in while the fluid comes out.
I do this when the sled is not running worked great for me.
also for bledding i hav eflushed my system and changed my rear exchanger. and i found it real easy. i just lifted the back so the back of the track is about 5" off the ground filled the reservoir with the bleed screw in the back off. untill i can see the fluid come up to the hole fo rthe bleed screw. then I lower the back and the fluid squirts out put the bleed screw in while the fluid comes out.
I do this when the sled is not running worked great for me.
1badz
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2005
- Messages
- 179
I have the rear done, but I'm not getting anything through the front bleed hole
yamaholic22
Active member
yes you can run any antifreeze in the there, but personally i like to run the extended life stuff good for 150,000 miles in a car. It is only like 80 cents more a gallon and lasts a lot longer without getting acidic and corrosive to the internal parts. Just a little cheap insurance. I'm a believer that thermostats go bad from having acid antifreeze putting crud and corroded metal particles in with the coolant. Could also be hard on the water pump mechanical seal.
1badz
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2005
- Messages
- 179
theblues said:
Saw this thread in my search too. Just need to know now what I need to do to remove the valve. Remove the top bleed screw??, remove the bottom screw??, just yank on it??. Anyone??
Thanks