Belt ride/secondary twist

EricMichael

EricMichael

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
543
Location
Presque Isle, ME
I have my secondary clutch twisted as 70 degrees with a green secondary 51/45 helix. The belt still rides in the clutch alittle...should I tighten it up to 80 degrees to get it alittle above flush? offset and alignment have been checked. I'm running on the lakes and running 1000ft radar also so i'm looking for some good speed..any help?
 

unless im misunderstanding, twist wont affect belt height in the secondary. you need to remove washers from under the 3 bolts to let the sheaves close more if you want the belt to sit higher.
 
ok..i actually put a used belt on but it was better than my old one..so maybe this new one is close to new..i'll slap the old one back on and see where it sits at 70 degrees
 
put the old belt back on and it was fine at 70 degrees, now is this the reason why yamaha put the shims on the bolts for the secondary for the new belt? I just thought say if you had your secondary at 60 degrees the belt would sit in further since there is less force on the belt...
 
as n2oiroc said, changing the wind on the secondary spring will not affect the height that the belt rides in the secondary as long as the secondary is closing all the way. The three bolts on the back of the secondary determine the belt height in the secondary, which changes the deflection between the primary and secondary. However, i think he meant that you need to remove washers if you want the belt to ride LOWER in the secondary, and add washers/remove the bolts if you want it to ride HIGHER in the secondary.
 
well I put an 8dn belt on that a freind left at my place and it looked to be in decent shape, so I put it on and the belt was sucked in the secondary alittle(this is with the washers in the back still) so how would you get that belt to ride higher with the washers installed can't take them out or the belt will ride even lower right?So i just went out and put the old belt back on and run the track on a stand and the belt is perfect ride height..
 
Maybe the belt was worn too narrow, the belt can still look fine and be way out spec on wear. Also, are you sure that the secondary was ALL THE WAY CLOSED, you need the put the sled on a stand and run it and let the clutches shift all the way back on their own, dont hit the brake to stop it or it might not backshift all the way back to where it should. There are so many morons at drag races and speed runs that warm their sled up on the stand doing 100 mph and then nail the brake and lock up the track, then throw it on the ground. It is liking starting out in second gear when it doesn't backshift all the way.
 
yeah i know what you mean about the 100mph morons lol...but no i'll go put the new belt on right now and get it up to 50 on a stand and see where it sits...the old belt seems to sit pefect right now..
 
the correct placement of the belt if the motor is adjusted correctly and you have a srx torque arm(you do have one!!!! dont you?) is just over the edge of the clutch with about 1/32 showing. twist has nothing to do with this adjustment.
dont waste your money on the radar runs, those sleds run 99-101 with a good setup, firecats are in your class and will destroy you by 3-5mph easy with an average setup.

better to just ride around the lake and revel in the glory of looking way better than a firecat, they can never take that away from you.
 
well I dont have a torque arm but the clutches are all adjusted properly..just checked...and put the new belt on..its used but in good shape and it sits in the clutch a very little...the old belt sits just above so..i dont know..all the washers are in too..and as for the firecats at the last radar run had a hell of a time hitting 100 mph..my buddy from mst sports had his firecat there and could only run 96...on the grass in searsport I took first in 700 mod..there was an arctic-cat sponsored girl riding an f7 or as ppl thought f8 and she took second place behind me..I used a set-up from turk and mr.viper..but at those radar runs i was an idiot and tried running 8ca's and was still running with two firecats across the lake...now i'm going to try the 8dn-20's with bigger rollers..the only other thing my sled has done to it is v-force reeds..I weigh about 145-150 so that might make a diffrence
 
Last edited:
The Engine Torque Limiter should have been the 1st thing you should have put on your Viper esp. being PIPED. Alot of guys even put this on there 120hp machines just cause Viper motor twist so much when under a load, without one your clutchs twists and can cause the clutchs to misalign from one another. So with that extra 25-30hp you added, your causeing them to twist even more than a stocker. SRX came stock with a engine limiter, so I would HIGHLY RECCOMMEND you purchase one.

Hit up RichieRich for one, prolly run ya $45-$50
 
where is this placed..maybe the sled has one..it had a bender kit on it..then stock and now i ringed it and put slps on last year..ran it all year no probs..borrowed alignment tool from dealer and they were dead on..so maybe it has one..but yea i'll get er done for sure if not..
 
One bracket attaches to the crankcase behind the PTO/Clutch side cylinder, the second bracket mounts to the side of bulkhead that seperates your motor and clutches, then theres a dogbone style bar that connects the 2 brackets. Thats if you have the OEM Yami Limiter. But if you have one that looks like you can make adjustments to it, I'd suggest buying a Yami one, cause the adjustable ones are known to break, prolly why there cheaper than a Yami limiter.


Your clutches can be dead nuts inline sitting still. But like I said put stresses of a 150hp motor to all that shit is gunna start moving and twisting. Cause your 2 rear mounting holes are rubber mounted, which WILL move when put under a load.
 
Last edited:
so just wondering what would cause that newer belt to ride lower?it looks alot better than my old worn out 8dn..and it to is an 8dn..my old one sits perfect lol maybe i'll keep it on there til it blows..what the hell :P
 
are you trying the belt without it being on the primary, this is the best way to check the secondary for belt height. if you check it installed and the motor is only 1mm further ahead it will try to hold the belt down a bit when checking the deflection.

as for the speeds, they are way low, caribous radar must be off or they measured the 1000ft mark short again.

drag racing without a limiter is uncool man, you can break the front motor mount.

so you have a piped viper, did you go with a red or blue gas can bungy corded to the bumper?
 
the ice was soft...not many people were getting high speeds...srx's ranged around 1000 mph..i was an idiot and ran 8ca's so mine was way to low..and the alignment tool i'm using fits right over the secondary shaft with it removed and over the primary just fine...but your right 1mm prob could make the secondary suck the belt down..shoudl i just run it anyway??the old belt sits perfect..i thinki 'll use that for awhile..I went with the blue gas can cause it matches better haha..they are having a big radar run at portage lake january 14th...alot of ppl attend that..you should come up have lunch and run your sled...what are you running anyway?
 
Belt ride/ secondary twist

How old is your old belt and does it have cracks or glazing. I buy new belt every year and put old belt in spare holder. I've seen sled damage, especially on triples that were running at speed , when belt disentergrated or came apart. We have a blown belt hanging in barn as a souvenior. plowking
 
did you try the belt with it NOT on the primary as stated before?
I would do it that way and use the belt that is slightly out of the secondary
Just so you know most all belts will measure different lengths and that could make a difference on the secondary. I would say if your racing you need to measure new belts, pick three as close to the same length, break them in, re-measure and rotate them each time you run
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top