What is the proper way to set track alignment? I've heard and read many posts about track alignment being important to maximize track HP, but I can't find a post detailing the best way to do it. Do I just center the track between the rear bogies? Or is there a better way?
Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks.
Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks.
excel V
New member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2004
- Messages
- 28
langow, To set the alignment:Jack up your sleds rear end securely. Adjust the track tension to approximatley tight enough. Gage your alignment at this time by measuring and making sure your tension adjuster bolts are equally tighened. Now sart the motor & rev it just enough to spin the track at slow speed. Now visually check the alignment by looking at the back end of the track through the track windows to see how centered it is relative to the sliders. If the track is running towards the RH side then increase the tension on the RH adjuster. Repeat this procedure untill the track looks centered to the sliders. Now do your final tension adjustment being carefull to adjust the L7R adjusters the same amount. It's a good idea to reconfirm your alignment after this procedure and again after you first ride.
thanks excel. That's basically what I though, but I thought I read a post by someone, somewhere mentioning that alignment should be checked where the driver wheels run on the track cogs.
Most people have the bad habit of just looking at the gap of the track to outside of the idler wheel, and this isnt the most accurate way, simply because the tracks are not always "cut" exactly on the ends, and by using this method what happens is the gap on each side might be correct but the drive lugs rub against the sides of the rear idler wheels, this scrubs off speed.
Always use the rear idler wheel to drive cog spacing as your guide, this also insure the track clips will be equally spaced from the hyfax. The center to outside drive lugs is where the track has to meet the spec, the outside cut is just that, a cut and if you get one made on friday afternoon, well it could be off 3/8" and this will rub the sides of your idler wheels and eat up speed. I have seen this alot on the aftermarket tracks, asphalt tracks being the worst.
Always use the rear idler wheel to drive cog spacing as your guide, this also insure the track clips will be equally spaced from the hyfax. The center to outside drive lugs is where the track has to meet the spec, the outside cut is just that, a cut and if you get one made on friday afternoon, well it could be off 3/8" and this will rub the sides of your idler wheels and eat up speed. I have seen this alot on the aftermarket tracks, asphalt tracks being the worst.
What about track tension? I replaced the sliders yesterday and will be going for a long ride this weekend. I have the track aligned but I'm not sure how tight it should be. I don't have a guage to hang from the track.
Most people here will say Yamahas spec is too tight. Suggestion is to run it as loose as possible without it jumping the cogs.
snow guy
New member
I've got the rear centered but the front of the rail is off center, how do you get that aligned?
read the rear skid article below and that will explain a little why you cant trust a hanging alignment. they are great for getting started. then go out on the lake or flat trail, drive the sled straight, let it roll to a stop. without getting off, lean over and look to see if the slides are centered between the clips. this is true center. if your sled is hanging and you have straps adjusted a little different side to side, or the skid is wore out which it is when it is new, the supension can hang lower on one side than the other, this will push the track off.
as for tension, you want the track as loose as you can get it without jumping cogs. so, go out to a place where you can get as much traction as you can, keep doing launches. back it off till it jumps, then tighten it up two turns. now, go do some speed runs. tighten it up a half turn each run till you see speed fall off then back it up. some tracks and sleds will want more or less tension as they all balloon a little differently. loose tracks dont allways mean faster if they are bouncing off the guards.
as for tension, you want the track as loose as you can get it without jumping cogs. so, go out to a place where you can get as much traction as you can, keep doing launches. back it off till it jumps, then tighten it up two turns. now, go do some speed runs. tighten it up a half turn each run till you see speed fall off then back it up. some tracks and sleds will want more or less tension as they all balloon a little differently. loose tracks dont allways mean faster if they are bouncing off the guards.