redsnake3
New member
whats everyones tricks to loosing weight of the ol' viper? i am willing to try almost anything as long as it wont hurt the sleds trailability or is easily reversed. i will only be doin this to loose some extra pounds on the race track. im looking for cheap weight lose, like taking stuff off that aint needed or lightening up a part. i dont want to have to special order anything but wouldnt mind running around town to gather it up. 
put cbperformances full front end kit on there. runs great on the trail and saves you 20 pounds on the front of the sled.
get a boss seat
auji700triple
New member
What about a Lightweight Rotor and Hub, they arn't TOO expensive.
You can get rid of your tunnel heat exchangers and get a u cooler for you tunnel.Chromoly handle bars,lightweight steering post,radius rods ,trailing arm's.mesh hood.The list goes on it depends how deep your wallet is.
redsnake3
New member
im talking about cheap weight loss, im not looking to spend hundreds. just something to lose a few lbs.
sandmanmike1
New member
How much do you weight? You can always loose a few pounds and can do that almost free with diet and exercise.
If your going to spend money or even time on weight removal, do it where your gonna see some gain, ROTATING WEIGHT!! trailing arms, radius rods all that crap cost alot of money and isnt going to make the sled any faster racing it except for the fact your wallet is lighter!!
Or lay off the chesseburgers and twinkies for a month ahead of race......LOL!!
Or lay off the chesseburgers and twinkies for a month ahead of race......LOL!!
woolyviper
New member
replace the stock can with an mbrp trail can - that should save you close to 15 lbs.
Jeff22
Member
the can will cost ya HP though,, no sense shedding weight at the expense of horsepower if yer into racing it......
yamyrider
Active member
rotating mass is going to give you more then weight loss...bigger bang for the buck.
light weight windage plates, light weight brake rotor and hub, bigger wheels.
light weight windage plates, light weight brake rotor and hub, bigger wheels.
redsnake3
New member
well, i can lose more than a few pounds without hurting(lol) but the sled is very heavy to start with also and is too heavy to be throwing around in the snow when im stuck and whatnot.
yahadriver23
New member
Do what i do, go to the gym six days a week! And the ladies love it 
Here's what you do cheaply
Like a few guys have said reducing the rotating mass of your sled will do ALOT more than just shedding pounds. The other thing you need to do is reduce the friction of the driveline and rear suspension/track.
To do this you need to:
Ø Remove the jack shaft and drive shaft. Take them to a local machine shop and have both of them straightened. You would be amazed at how bad they are from the factory.
Ø Have the drivers, on the now straight drive shaft, turned true to the drive shaft. Have them remove the absolute minimum amount to get the drivers ALL the same diameter and true to the drive shaft. Doing this changes the diameter of the drivers slightly which will change your final driver ratio. Remove too much, and the drivers will not engage the track properly.
Ø Check the jack shaft and drive shaft bearings to make sure they are all in good condition – pay especially close attention to the clutch-side bearing on the drive shaft. The speedo drive cover tends to hold water in this area which causes the bearing to fail prematurely. Clean and repack the bearings with lite-weight lithium grease if you can get at them.
Ø When you reinstall the shafts make sure they are as square to the front of the tunnel and one another as you can get them.
Ø Align your primary and secondary clutches to a “gnats-***”.
Ø Remove all of your idler wheels from the skid and have them turned round and all to the same diameter (have them freeze each wheel to make the rubber coating hard before turning them it will be a lot easier).
Ø Remove all the bearings from the idlers and either go buy yourself some “frictionless bearings” to replace them or clean the old ones and pack them with lite-weight lithium grease.
Ø Check to see how square your skid frame is. Make adjustments to it as necessary to get it as square as possible. Also check to make sure it is not offset (one rail farther ahead/behind the other) make adjustments as necessary. Again you wouldn’t believe how out-of-sq and offset they can be from the factory.
Ø Remove all the W-arm and rear shock arm from the skid and put in new bushings or roller-pin bearings depending on which suspension you have. Clean everything and repack with the same lite-weight lithium grease you did the idler bearings with.
Ø Reinstall the arms and making sure they are square to the skid also.
Ø Install the skid and get it square to the drive shaft NOT the tunnel!!!!!
Ø Run your track in making sure it has the right droop and is centered on the skid.
Ø Set your skis square to the TRACK and then give them 0.125” – 0.25” toe out.
Ø If you are not going to change the drive chain and sprockets out to a less friction robbing setup then I would suggest using a synthetic automatic trans. fluid in the chain case instead of the gear lube recommended (see tech page and posts about this).
I did all this to my ’99 SX600 after I did some clutch work Turk suggested along with the air box, silencer and head gasket mod and got another 6-8 mph out of it on top end just from the friction and alignment changes. The drive line is now so friction free that if I put it on a stand while idling the track will spin.
Mills
Like a few guys have said reducing the rotating mass of your sled will do ALOT more than just shedding pounds. The other thing you need to do is reduce the friction of the driveline and rear suspension/track.
To do this you need to:
Ø Remove the jack shaft and drive shaft. Take them to a local machine shop and have both of them straightened. You would be amazed at how bad they are from the factory.
Ø Have the drivers, on the now straight drive shaft, turned true to the drive shaft. Have them remove the absolute minimum amount to get the drivers ALL the same diameter and true to the drive shaft. Doing this changes the diameter of the drivers slightly which will change your final driver ratio. Remove too much, and the drivers will not engage the track properly.
Ø Check the jack shaft and drive shaft bearings to make sure they are all in good condition – pay especially close attention to the clutch-side bearing on the drive shaft. The speedo drive cover tends to hold water in this area which causes the bearing to fail prematurely. Clean and repack the bearings with lite-weight lithium grease if you can get at them.
Ø When you reinstall the shafts make sure they are as square to the front of the tunnel and one another as you can get them.
Ø Align your primary and secondary clutches to a “gnats-***”.
Ø Remove all of your idler wheels from the skid and have them turned round and all to the same diameter (have them freeze each wheel to make the rubber coating hard before turning them it will be a lot easier).
Ø Remove all the bearings from the idlers and either go buy yourself some “frictionless bearings” to replace them or clean the old ones and pack them with lite-weight lithium grease.
Ø Check to see how square your skid frame is. Make adjustments to it as necessary to get it as square as possible. Also check to make sure it is not offset (one rail farther ahead/behind the other) make adjustments as necessary. Again you wouldn’t believe how out-of-sq and offset they can be from the factory.
Ø Remove all the W-arm and rear shock arm from the skid and put in new bushings or roller-pin bearings depending on which suspension you have. Clean everything and repack with the same lite-weight lithium grease you did the idler bearings with.
Ø Reinstall the arms and making sure they are square to the skid also.
Ø Install the skid and get it square to the drive shaft NOT the tunnel!!!!!
Ø Run your track in making sure it has the right droop and is centered on the skid.
Ø Set your skis square to the TRACK and then give them 0.125” – 0.25” toe out.
Ø If you are not going to change the drive chain and sprockets out to a less friction robbing setup then I would suggest using a synthetic automatic trans. fluid in the chain case instead of the gear lube recommended (see tech page and posts about this).
I did all this to my ’99 SX600 after I did some clutch work Turk suggested along with the air box, silencer and head gasket mod and got another 6-8 mph out of it on top end just from the friction and alignment changes. The drive line is now so friction free that if I put it on a stand while idling the track will spin.
Mills
redsnake3
New member
thanks for the reply mills, very descriptive.
vipertripplexxx
New member
stock trailing arms are pieces of lead!