I just installed a rear heat exchanger in my viper today, bled the back fine but can't get any fluid to come out of the bleed bolt on the heads. I read some other posts that said to pull out the on off switch for the carb heater but it won't budge. I took out both top and bottom bolts there. Also the switch is really hard to move, in order to turn the carbs off and on I had to use a pliers. Is that normal? Anything else I should know about removing the switch?
well maybe you have air in the heat exchanger at the rear ??? does it come hot went the motor run
redsnake3
New member
i think the heated carbs need to be on to bleed out of the head.
Millinocket Rocket
New member
i had the same problem with mine-- i just kept bleeding it from the rear till no more air came out. bleed it, ride it, bleed it, ride it-- just keep the back of the sled raised while bleeding
Bleeding head
A good friend of mine, a mechanic at a doo dealer. Is an ex-yami race team wrencher said this…there is a flaw with the valve…under heat and pressure it is almost impossible to turn on or off the valve…but when cooled down, you can turn the valve…hence a tool was made available by Yamaha…also when bleeding some sledheads said to pull out on the valve abit and it will bleed, has anyone tried this, oops they pulled to far and made a huge mess…the fix is to remove the valve and nib a small V-groove on the last piece of plastic (where the top bleed screw would go) and this allows coolant to enter the bleed screw area…I did mine and it works, I did mine while rebuilding the top end…If I was to do it now. I would raise the front up, pinch off the coolant tank line and drain the head by the pto carb line (to lower the level in the head) and then remove the valve and do the mod…replace valve and carb line and fill up coolant tank and turn on carb valve, lower the sled and start it up…you all know to bleed with the cap off, (cap on to circulate, cap off to bleed)...have some rags ready cause it’s gonna squirt…keep an eye on your level and feel the heat exchangers…make sure they are all getting warm/hot…This cut the time spent bleeding…more time sledding…good luck
A good friend of mine, a mechanic at a doo dealer. Is an ex-yami race team wrencher said this…there is a flaw with the valve…under heat and pressure it is almost impossible to turn on or off the valve…but when cooled down, you can turn the valve…hence a tool was made available by Yamaha…also when bleeding some sledheads said to pull out on the valve abit and it will bleed, has anyone tried this, oops they pulled to far and made a huge mess…the fix is to remove the valve and nib a small V-groove on the last piece of plastic (where the top bleed screw would go) and this allows coolant to enter the bleed screw area…I did mine and it works, I did mine while rebuilding the top end…If I was to do it now. I would raise the front up, pinch off the coolant tank line and drain the head by the pto carb line (to lower the level in the head) and then remove the valve and do the mod…replace valve and carb line and fill up coolant tank and turn on carb valve, lower the sled and start it up…you all know to bleed with the cap off, (cap on to circulate, cap off to bleed)...have some rags ready cause it’s gonna squirt…keep an eye on your level and feel the heat exchangers…make sure they are all getting warm/hot…This cut the time spent bleeding…more time sledding…good luck
Concept Carbon
New member
I just tryed to bleed min efrom the back i coul dsee the fluid but it wouldnt squirt out, It would just rise to the top of the screw hole, unless I squeeze the hose then it would squirt.
I had rad cap off, ran it for about 5min and raised the track about 10inches off the ground
I had rad cap off, ran it for about 5min and raised the track about 10inches off the ground