fordsrx
Member
looking for info on studding my 00 srx. it has a 1.25 ripsaw. is there enough room or do i have to go to smaller drivers.
thanks, Ford
thanks, Ford
richierich
New member
you'll need smaller drivers.
fordsrx
Member
so if i go down to 8 tooth drivers, what gearing would i need to be stock again?
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Check this site out it will answer your ?
http://www.snowmobileworld.com/tools/index.php
http://www.snowmobileworld.com/tools/index.php
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
you dont need drivers, just cut the track down to 1.1 and run woodys 1.175 studs. they are tight but will work and will stick out far enough. the loss of 1/8in off your track is unmeasureable in accelleration, especially when you add studs. 8 tooth drivers kill speed.
lay a piece of flat bar accross the lugs on each side and shave the tops with a fein tool if you have one or sheet rock knife blade.
go with a 168 outside patern or 192.
lay a piece of flat bar accross the lugs on each side and shave the tops with a fein tool if you have one or sheet rock knife blade.
go with a 168 outside patern or 192.
fordsrx
Member
thanks for your help guys, much appreciated
richierich
New member
stock gearing is high.i would run stock gearing and see how you like it.when we did swaps most decided to keep the gears.just trying to save you money.
fordsrx
Member
this sled is going to be used for snow drags only. i really like the ripsaw on hard pack, but with full race porting from Don Pizor, i was looking at more trackion out of the hole. so i'm trying to decide long tracking it or studs. i dont want to much rotating mass. i suppose everything has a trade off
i have a 2002 srx,bought a 1.25 ripsaw
will i have to remove tunnel protectors to use
this track?
will i have to remove tunnel protectors to use
this track?
pro116
Lifetime VIP Member
road king yes
Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
fordsrx
Member
hey maddogs, how tight did you have the 1.25 tracks with 1.175 studs in? i like to run mine alot looser than factory specs
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
The problem is 8 tooth drivers create more friction simply trying to bend the track tighter around the drivers, it is harder to bend the track in a tighter radius, this creates friction. If you ask me the traction gained compared to the loss of drive efficency doesnt work out in your favor, youd be better off running a 1 inch lug with studs in middle belt only and be able to run it looser and gain more, the 1.25 will eat up your speed along with 8 tooth drivers. The other problem is the gearing, your going to need to run a mtn max speedo drive box or your speedo will be out in left field and then buy all new gears to try and get back to stock ratio's. if your going to do just snow drags, then run a bigger lug track like a 1.5 with no studs, but stick with the 9 tooth drivers, you can fit all the way up to a 1.75" lug in a srx with 9 tooth drivers, you do need to remove the pick protectors and tunel strips but with no studs, they are just along for the ride anyways.
Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
I run my tracks extremely loose also. I run them to ratchet then tighten them up just enough so they do not ratchet. I have never had the 1.175's (Woody's) hit anything in well over 10,000 miles on my 00 SRX.
w8tn4snow
New member
I was wondering myself what I could get away with on my Viper S I really like studs but dont want to cough up the cash for the drivers and gears . Im pretty interested in hearing more about BETHEVIPERs post on shaving down the track to run studs . Is it safe ?
Maddogs700srx
VIP Member
Yes, shaving the track down is fine to do. With a Viper S However, I would just install the protectors, shave only the areas of the track where the windows are and run 1.175" Woody's. You will find that this combo will work great with out any track or tunnel rub what so ever.