Sheermadness03
New member
I have disassembled the primary clutch (stock) for cleaning on my 03 Viper and notice that in the yamaha service manual it says to lube the weights with "molybdenum disulfied grease", in the illistration it looks like they are talking about putting grease on the face of the weight (roller contact portion). I have always been told to NEVER put any kind of lube on the weights or rollers. What do you guys know about this or what are your opinion's?? -Ed
Mac
Member
I clean everything in the primary and secondary begining of each season and then run bone dry about 2500 miles a season. No lube. I also remove the belt at the end of the season and spray both clutches with a silicone spray.
Sheermadness03 said:I have disassembled the primary clutch (stock) for cleaning on my 03 Viper and notice that in the yamaha service manual it says to lube the weights with "molybdenum disulfied grease", in the illistration it looks like they are talking about putting grease on the face of the weight (roller contact portion). I have always been told to NEVER put any kind of lube ON the weights or rollers. What do you guys know about this or what are your opinion's?? -Ed
See the word ON.
Grease ON a bearing, is different than grease IN the bearing.
A bushing is a bearing, correct?
And is why it's called a plain bearing.
Why would you want that bearing to wear out by not using lube?
Lube on the surface vs in each roller is the key.
No different than cycle chain rollers.
So simply spray in lube to the pivot points to protect those
bushings. I use TriFlow, A quick shot of teflon is clean. If the
joint bleeds out dark after applying, it's showing you powdered
metal wear.
You can hit it with some each time out or not.
Or plan it getting fuel.
As long as you never see metal bleed out, then your timing
is perfect.
Lube isn't Loctite in the bushing. Lube is your friend.
I'll bet any amount, clutch builders don't send them out dry.
Dry is the best way powdered metal could build up enough
to lock up the weight.
A small 6 oz can will last all season.
I use it on all moving parts.
Bearing ends on steering, cables, any pivot, brake lever, etc.
The reason moly is used is, it lasts a long time.
Moly is microscopic bearings, so is teflon.
Now silicone on the clutch faces, this is going to raise issues
if it gets onto belt. And depends on the grade. Consumer grade
is nothing like industrial grade. If it foams, it's the cheapest form.
This has water in it.
If you apply silicone on the bottom of your Nike's on the tile,
You'll have fun for quite a while.