Viperscott
New member
Some may have read this in another forum but got no help.
These may be dumb questions but forgive me I'm new. I recently bought a 02 Viper single piped and was looking for the chain case dipstick. Found that but can't seam to get it all the way out without moving it all around risking contaminating the oil with any metal (not to mention the pull cord running over top of it). Also I cannot get at the adjustment bolt either. Now my dumb question here is how do I get at these? Do I have to take the silencer off and if I do is there a risk of damaging the exhaust dounuts? Next it has a new ripsaw on it and I was told that it would have to be adjusted after awhile because it stretches. In the manual it says to lay on it's side and pull it with some spring tool whith x amount of force and measure deflection. Now how long before I should check it and do I really need to do it like this or can I just lift the back and measure it as it hangs?
These may be dumb questions but forgive me I'm new. I recently bought a 02 Viper single piped and was looking for the chain case dipstick. Found that but can't seam to get it all the way out without moving it all around risking contaminating the oil with any metal (not to mention the pull cord running over top of it). Also I cannot get at the adjustment bolt either. Now my dumb question here is how do I get at these? Do I have to take the silencer off and if I do is there a risk of damaging the exhaust dounuts? Next it has a new ripsaw on it and I was told that it would have to be adjusted after awhile because it stretches. In the manual it says to lay on it's side and pull it with some spring tool whith x amount of force and measure deflection. Now how long before I should check it and do I really need to do it like this or can I just lift the back and measure it as it hangs?
Just do it
Don't worry about contaminating the oil when you pull the dipstic out. Most of the fragments will stay stuck on the magnet. It's not a swiss watch, its a snowmobile chain case!!! Just pull the pull cord to the side with your finger and pull it up out. To do the the chain adjustment, remove the two springs that hold the pipe to the manifold and then the ones that hold the pipe to the silencer. Now take the pipe out. You can adjust this without removing the silencer by using a 14mm deep well socket on the jamb nut and a 12mm on the tensioner bolt. Put them on an extension and you can reach right back there. This is the reason why the jamb nut is larger than the bolt itself. It is probably just as easy to take out the silencer to do it though. To do that, remove the other springs that hold the silencer in place and remove it. Although the donuts can be damaged if you arent careful there's nothing to be scared about.....just be careful. Now make the necessary adjustments........don't get that chain too tight. I like to remove the chain case cover (4 12mm bolts) once a year to wipe all the oil & fragments out with a cloth and inspect the chain & gears......plus it's easier to adjust the chain when you can look at it. Just give it a little bit of deflection and you are good to go. Be confident and just do it.
Madmatt
Don't worry about contaminating the oil when you pull the dipstic out. Most of the fragments will stay stuck on the magnet. It's not a swiss watch, its a snowmobile chain case!!! Just pull the pull cord to the side with your finger and pull it up out. To do the the chain adjustment, remove the two springs that hold the pipe to the manifold and then the ones that hold the pipe to the silencer. Now take the pipe out. You can adjust this without removing the silencer by using a 14mm deep well socket on the jamb nut and a 12mm on the tensioner bolt. Put them on an extension and you can reach right back there. This is the reason why the jamb nut is larger than the bolt itself. It is probably just as easy to take out the silencer to do it though. To do that, remove the other springs that hold the silencer in place and remove it. Although the donuts can be damaged if you arent careful there's nothing to be scared about.....just be careful. Now make the necessary adjustments........don't get that chain too tight. I like to remove the chain case cover (4 12mm bolts) once a year to wipe all the oil & fragments out with a cloth and inspect the chain & gears......plus it's easier to adjust the chain when you can look at it. Just give it a little bit of deflection and you are good to go. Be confident and just do it.
Madmatt
Oh, the track question
On the track, when it starts to rachet, you'll know it's too loose. At that point loosten the rear axel up (17mm & 19mm). Now reach through the track windows with a 14mm deep well and give the tensioners about 3 full turns. Now tighten everything up and try it. If it still rachets, repeat process little by little. The looser the better as long as it does not rachet.
Madmatt
On the track, when it starts to rachet, you'll know it's too loose. At that point loosten the rear axel up (17mm & 19mm). Now reach through the track windows with a 14mm deep well and give the tensioners about 3 full turns. Now tighten everything up and try it. If it still rachets, repeat process little by little. The looser the better as long as it does not rachet.
Madmatt
Make sure the track is centered if you make any adjustments. You check this by running it on a stand and letting the track coast to a stop. The check each side for symetrical position on the slides.