archer
Member
Quick one... is the rear shock pre-load the correct adjustment to make to get a little more space on the bottom of the transfer rods, in order to get equal spacing on top and bottom of the rods? I am close after bushing replacement and fixes Per BTV posts. I set rear preload high and front (skid) preload soft, FRA on light (175 lbs suited up) limiters just snug with sled on the ground with no other load. rear bumper seems a little high at 23 inches but settles in to 18 inches with me on it.
Thanks
Doug
Thanks
Doug
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archer
Member
Any thoughts on this BTV or anyone?
seca
New member
i was under the impression that you had to max pre-load on front of rear and loosen the pre-load on the rear of rear to get more weight transfer. is your sled long travelled?
archer
Member
Yes, long travelled. I dont need the skis 2 ft up in the air, too hard to steer that way! A couple inches on the occasional lake race is all I need. I had it all apart this fall and have not been able to ride it yet. I guess I will ride it this weekend and make adjustments as needed. I was just looking for a little info on the transfer rods. After reading countless posts on the subject I think I have an idea on how it works, and that is a good start! Thanks for your reply. Hows the weather in St Johns been this season? Snow is FINALLY starting to pile up in Michigan.
seca
New member
it has been really cold here for the last 2 weeks and we just received our first real amount of snow(8-9 "). i am hoping to get out this weekend on my first real run of the season. seems like everyone is in the same boat--no snow!! like i said , what you want to do is open up the gap on the top side of the rods, tighten up the front pre-load and loosen up the rear pre-load.this will let the rear shock compress under hard exceleratin and let the weight transfer to the track.if you get to much ski lift, tighten up the pre-load on the rear of rear in small amounts untill you get it right for your weight. hope this helps. somebody please but in if i am steering Archer in the wrong direction!!
Rambunctious
New member
If you just long traveled and are now trying to dial in the transfer rods, you need to extend them due to the higher ride height.
I made 10mm extensions ( 10mm steel cylinders with thru hole for the bolt.) the cylinders are the same diameter as the shaft so they travel into the rod housing
then you can mix/match nylon bushings to get the right gaps.
changing the preload (ride height) will affect cornering so I would get that right, then dial in the gaps.
I found that the stiff FRA setting made the sled VERY tippy. I adjusted it to the softest setting and it corners on rails again.
Ramb
I made 10mm extensions ( 10mm steel cylinders with thru hole for the bolt.) the cylinders are the same diameter as the shaft so they travel into the rod housing
then you can mix/match nylon bushings to get the right gaps.
changing the preload (ride height) will affect cornering so I would get that right, then dial in the gaps.
I found that the stiff FRA setting made the sled VERY tippy. I adjusted it to the softest setting and it corners on rails again.
Ramb
archer
Member
rods and shocks were put in by the guy I bought it from, Im not sure of the rod length but he was meticulous on the maintenance of the sled so I assume they are correct. Right now, with gear, I have about a... I'll go take a pic.
archer
Member
pics of suspension
OK looks like my lower gap is about 1/4" or less, top under 1". Ride height looks like I should loosen up my rear shock, front shock spring is loose without rider and you can see where my limiters are. What do you think? First 2 are with me on it (that was fun) and the shock one is unloaded.
OK looks like my lower gap is about 1/4" or less, top under 1". Ride height looks like I should loosen up my rear shock, front shock spring is loose without rider and you can see where my limiters are. What do you think? First 2 are with me on it (that was fun) and the shock one is unloaded.
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Rambunctious
New member
without changing the rear preload, change the FRA slot to the softest position ( closer to the shaft) this will give a little more seti-n ( creating more gap in teh bottom of the transfer rod) and also making your ride softer. if you don't bottom out this will be perfect, making more weight transfer and softer ride. this adjustment made NIGHT AND DAY difference in the cornering ability of my 2000.
mine is on this softest setting, and I weight 185 without any gear. I occasionally bottom out in a real dipper.
you may be pleasantly surprised.
Ramb
mine is on this softest setting, and I weight 185 without any gear. I occasionally bottom out in a real dipper.
you may be pleasantly surprised.
Ramb
for a long travel sled it looks like you dont have enough total gap.
you want atleast 14mm no more than 18mm. also put a thinner spacer on the bottom.
front preload on that track shock should be little to none. for your weight, use the fra on soft or middle to start. fra is not for adjusting ride height, it is for shock valving only. by moving it up you decrease the speed and distance the shock travels and acts like softer shock valving and a softer rate spring.
use spring preload only to adjust ride height.
with all your gear, and total gap set, you on the sled you should have roughly 50/50 spacing, a little bigger on the top if you dont want your sled to handle good in a corner.
the tighter the gaps, the better handling the sled will be, also stiffer feeling it will be..
14-16 is good, more is worse
on the short travel sleds, less gap is used as there isnt the suspension travel there to use any more offset between front and rear.
if the sled is set up correctly, you should bottom it out several times a day. any thing else means your riding on a stiff sled for the rest of the day.
for the easiest way to adjust the rear shock, remove it. way faster to adjust.
you want atleast 14mm no more than 18mm. also put a thinner spacer on the bottom.
front preload on that track shock should be little to none. for your weight, use the fra on soft or middle to start. fra is not for adjusting ride height, it is for shock valving only. by moving it up you decrease the speed and distance the shock travels and acts like softer shock valving and a softer rate spring.
use spring preload only to adjust ride height.
with all your gear, and total gap set, you on the sled you should have roughly 50/50 spacing, a little bigger on the top if you dont want your sled to handle good in a corner.
the tighter the gaps, the better handling the sled will be, also stiffer feeling it will be..
14-16 is good, more is worse
on the short travel sleds, less gap is used as there isnt the suspension travel there to use any more offset between front and rear.
if the sled is set up correctly, you should bottom it out several times a day. any thing else means your riding on a stiff sled for the rest of the day.
for the easiest way to adjust the rear shock, remove it. way faster to adjust.
archer
Member
Yes BTV I did find out that removing the rear shock was the only way to adjust it, and taking it off is an easy job. Did I understand correctly that more gap on the bottom is achieved by using a thinner spacer on the bottom? I then need to reduce rear preload a little and then adjust rod for almost equal spacing on top and bottom? FRA is or was on softest but I also learned the lesson about not letting the bolt on the FRA adjust turn whiloe the nut is being loosened. Will it have a tendancy to slip now?
Thanks for help BTV, Ramb and Seca. I might be a new guy but I'm learning Fast!
Doug
Thanks for help BTV, Ramb and Seca. I might be a new guy but I'm learning Fast!
Doug
Rambunctious
New member
BTV is correct, but i think we are saying the same thing. ( at least i am trying to
)the softer spring rate will give more set in (ie. lower ride height) and softer rate at same time. adjusting the rear spring will give lower ride height, but keeps the spring rate the same.
either method will add gap to your transfer rods
Ramb
archer
Member
After riding it this weekend I am happy with the outcome. A couple of things though. On a ski's up launch it pulls a little to the right. Can I assume either my track tensioners and/or my limiters are not adjusted the same? The track seems to be centered on the skid when measured with various methods posted here. The other thing is it seems to be a little more darty now, certainly not uncontrollable but I know it can be a lot better. I am loosening up the rear shock and tightening the front one and see if this helps. I like Kims C&A's so much I think I will get a pair for myself so that might help too.