Chewed up idler wheels?

jnow454

New member
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Messages
26
Location
S.E. MI
Anybody know why my inner idler wheels got chewed up (01 srx)? This never happened on my '98 srx. Bought this sled used, wheels don't look stock.
Track to loose, to much heat, ice chunks, studs, wrong wheels?

I'll probably buy new wheels with bearings. I don't have a press, any good ideas how to remove and replace without damaging the shaft or the new wheels.

THANKS!!!
 

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Is it studded?
If it is, then its probably from where the stud heads run under the wheels. I had one go bad b/c of where my studs ran.
Remove the circlips and pound the wheels off. Put them on with a large socket and tap em with a hammer. Take the bearing out of a damaged wheel and use that to protect your new wheels from the hammer. Put the shaft in the freezer for a couple hrs and the bearings seem to slide easier.

mul.
 
get a set from richie. rich motor sports

could be track alignment.

If your riding on alot of gravel they will get chewed up very fast.
 
those look like urethane wheels. if you have transfer rods on that skid taht are set with too much transfer the rear arm can chew up the wheels.
 
These wheels appear to be a one piece design. No rubber wheel and hub combination. I was going to replace with stock or should I replace with the same?

Bearings sounded "crunchy" when spun. One wheel with bearing came of very easy, the other wanted to be difficult.
 
Anybody know what kind these are or where to order new ones? I would have liked the new ones to match, but no big deal if they don't.

One last item, I think these are oversized. Are stock idlers 5.25 and SRX slider saver oversized 5.325?

THANKS!!!
 
I dont know if you can get oversized wheels anymore as maxx perf. went out of business, but allen ulmer (srxspec on the site) picked up a lot of their inventory, so maybe you could try him and see if he has any of them. Otherwise maybe the polaris ones that people use for oversize wheels on yamahas will work on there, i know for the other idlers people just throw their plastic spacers in the polaris wheels so they should work for that cross shaft as well i would think. The other thing you could do is just get factory wheels for the rears since hyfax wear isn't near as much of a problem back there as it is at the front.
 
jnow454 said:
These wheels appear to be a one piece design. No rubber wheel and hub combination. I was going to replace with stock or should I replace with the same?

Bearings sounded "crunchy" when spun. One wheel with bearing came of very easy, the other wanted to be difficult.

Mine did the same thing, never had a problem until I put plastic backers on. Didn't suck the stud down far enough in the track and at high speeds thats hard on them wheels..replaced the plastic backers with metal and no more broken wheels or vibration!
 
those are maxx perf wheels. the issue is heat build up due to lack of snow or sustained high speed running. the wheels would get so hot that they would actually melt and fling blue plastic everywhere in your suspension and it was impossible to get off. melted many of these wheels before i went to pioneer perf drop brackets and just started using stock wheels. and no the bearings would not have to be bad for this to happen. IMO, don't use these types of wheels because there are better options out there to save your hyfax and last a long long time.
 
Thumper1 said:
those are maxx perf wheels. the issue is heat build up due to lack of snow or sustained high speed running. the wheels would get so hot that they would actually melt and fling blue plastic everywhere in your suspension and it was impossible to get off. melted many of these wheels before i went to pioneer perf drop brackets and just started using stock wheels. and no the bearings would not have to be bad for this to happen. IMO, don't use these types of wheels because there are better options out there to save your hyfax and last a long long time.

what i meant to say is the melting of those wheels could be an issue as well.
 


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