Da_Moose
New member
I want to start changing the suspension set-up on my 01 Vmax Deluxe. I've read quite a bit about setting it up but I've never touched suspension set-up before. I'm about 280 lbs (or more) and the snow flap is almost on the ground when I'm on the sled. From what I understand I should move the FRA to the C position (currently on B), crank up the front shock preload to max, then adjust the rear shock preload for a 50/50 gap on the transfer rods. Please let me know if I've misunderstood something.
Do I need to do anything with the limiter straps or can I leave them until I get a better idea how it rides? Also, how can I adjust the preloads and FRA without removing the skid?
BTW, the preload adjustment is the notched style (like on the front) not the double-nut style if it makes any difference.
Sorry for the long post but any help would be appreciated
Moose
Do I need to do anything with the limiter straps or can I leave them until I get a better idea how it rides? Also, how can I adjust the preloads and FRA without removing the skid?
BTW, the preload adjustment is the notched style (like on the front) not the double-nut style if it makes any difference.
Sorry for the long post but any help would be appreciated
Moose
daman
New member
Sounds like you got a good start there, with you sitting on the sled
you have a 50/50 gap in the transfers?
you can do all that with the skid in the sled.
and
you have a 50/50 gap in the transfers?
you can do all that with the skid in the sled.
and
Da_Moose
New member
For some reason I cannot get a 50/50 gaps on the transfer rods. Before I started I checked the gaps and I believe there was no gap on at the bottom. After moving the FRA from position 2 to 3 (heavy) I cranked up the rear shock from the lowest setting to about 50% preload. The front-rear shock preload was at about 50% from the beginning. When I got on the sled there was no gap on the bottom and all at the top on the transfer rods.
After this I started experimenting. I adjusted the front-rear shock preload to 100% and retested the gap...no change. Adjusted the Rear shock to max (front still at max) preload...no change. Backed off the preload on the front to lightest setting on dial...no change. Backed off the rear preload to lightest setting...no change. I don't understand this.
I haven't adjusted the limiter straps but there is about 1 inch of thread from the end of the thread to the base of the first nut. The ski shock preload is on the lightest preload setting.
Please help me get this right!!!
Moose
After this I started experimenting. I adjusted the front-rear shock preload to 100% and retested the gap...no change. Adjusted the Rear shock to max (front still at max) preload...no change. Backed off the preload on the front to lightest setting on dial...no change. Backed off the rear preload to lightest setting...no change. I don't understand this.
I haven't adjusted the limiter straps but there is about 1 inch of thread from the end of the thread to the base of the first nut. The ski shock preload is on the lightest preload setting.
Please help me get this right!!!
Moose
daman
New member
Hmmm...thas funny,,keep your FRA at 3, front(skid shock) at med.Da_Moose said:
and loosen up main shock(preload) try position 2 or 3 with your
weight it's gota sag down to give you 50/50???
shouldn't need to tuch limiters
Da_Moose
New member
UPDATE:
I ended up having to go to the dealer to get a few bushings and a nut that I screwed up on Saturday. I asked one of the guys that's really good with suspensions about the problem. He told me to crank both shocks to max preload, and recommended that I have zero gap at the top and also recommended adding another bushing at the top. So I did, took it out yesterday and it felt amazing.
I do have one more question though. I had mentioned that I had read that it is recommended to start with a 50/50 gap set which he basically agreed however when I told him what was happening with my set-up he said it the gaps wouldn't change. I'm not sure what exactly he meant by that though (didn't ask though
). I assumed he meant no change between being on the sled and not being on, but it cleary changes (from one extent to the other). He probably meant something else...any ideas? Just trying to get a good idea of what is going on down there.
Also can somebody explain to me what exactly coupling is, or refer me to an easy to read tech article on the subject?
Moose
I ended up having to go to the dealer to get a few bushings and a nut that I screwed up on Saturday. I asked one of the guys that's really good with suspensions about the problem. He told me to crank both shocks to max preload, and recommended that I have zero gap at the top and also recommended adding another bushing at the top. So I did, took it out yesterday and it felt amazing.
I do have one more question though. I had mentioned that I had read that it is recommended to start with a 50/50 gap set which he basically agreed however when I told him what was happening with my set-up he said it the gaps wouldn't change. I'm not sure what exactly he meant by that though (didn't ask though
). I assumed he meant no change between being on the sled and not being on, but it cleary changes (from one extent to the other). He probably meant something else...any ideas? Just trying to get a good idea of what is going on down there. Also can somebody explain to me what exactly coupling is, or refer me to an easy to read tech article on the subject?
Moose
archer
Member
I kinda liked this one, though I'm sure that someone here can and will add something to it...http://www.hartmaninc.com/suspension.html
Da_Moose
New member
Thanks for the link, I think I'm starting to get the idea now. From what I understand not having a gap at the top means that the suspension will be coupled when the bump hits the back end of the suspension thus reducing the secondary kick. This does however mean that the suspension will have a stiffer feel to it, but I guess considering my weight it won't feel that stiff for me compared to someone regular sized.
the dealer didnt understand what he was telling you. if you sit on the sled and the gap is all on the top, you are not compressing the suspension all the way to correct ride height.
on that sled the first thing you should do is replace the center shock spring to a stiffer one. sled will handle better.
go to the thread at the top of FAQ section and read it through. if you have any questions after, ask away. i answered most questions i there.
on that sled the first thing you should do is replace the center shock spring to a stiffer one. sled will handle better.
go to the thread at the top of FAQ section and read it through. if you have any questions after, ask away. i answered most questions i there.
Da_Moose
New member
He told me to NOT have a gap at the top which if I understand it right, the front and rear arms are coupled all the time except maybe under acceleration or a hard hit on the tail. I am considering getting the stiffer spring but money is holding me back. When I rode it last weekend it felt pretty good but I'm used to a 94 Vmax suspension so I really don't know what good feels like for this sled. I'm just wondering if having the transfer rods at such an extreme could hurt the suspension at all and what negative effects it has in terms of suspension performance. As far as I know, the only negative is a lack of track hook-up.
BTW nice write up, just wish it was there a few days earlier LOL.
BTW nice write up, just wish it was there a few days earlier LOL.
you want equal gap, if you dont you will have a harse ride.
CaptCaper
VIP Member
I'm in the same boat and working on it.. I'm easily 250lbs. and drag the flap with my 03 vmax..600er.. also when I back up it catches the flap and shred's it.
They have two optional springs. Does anyone recommend one for our size? The sizes they have opt. are K=3.0-4.5 and the other is K=3.5-4.3.
They have two optional springs. Does anyone recommend one for our size? The sizes they have opt. are K=3.0-4.5 and the other is K=3.5-4.3.
CaptCaper
VIP Member
BETHEVIPER said:
By going to a stiffer spring and keeping the preload down it would allow the transfer rods to have equal gap produceing a better ride?