whats a cold seize?

terret725

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Joined
Sep 29, 2005
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berkshire mass
i just put my motor all back together. re honed it, put on a bost bottle i made and cleaned up the exhaust ports to match up with the flanges for my PI center dumps. i was runing across the lake lake to my truck and it ran fine hit 110 with my buddy on the back. we went got in my truck to go pick something up and about 15 mins later came back. i went to do a quick run cause He was talking to some one and i hit about 100 and the motor seized up. and i coasted to a stop. i felt the motor the heads were pretty hot but the cylinders weren't really. after about 5 mins it started to pull over again. i took the plugs out and they were were tan with no aluminum build up and i didn't see any pitting looking down the wholes. got it started up again and ran fine other then some backfiring when it first started up(i put some gas in the plugs to get it running) figured it was just some built up gas burning off. it ran fine the rest of the day put about 15 miles on or so with out another problem. i was letting warm up alot long then i use to and it seems to have stopped. could it just have been the pistons expanded alot faster then the cylinders cause it was pretty cold yesterday(lean conditions) and they just stuck from the expansion?
 
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Dued, you have to let that engine cool down when you make hard pulls like that...you just can't shut it off...got to idle the heat out of it...same goes when your ready for a hard pull, you got to bring it up to temp...piston expand faster than the cylinders...the way you mentioned that it quit on you and when you did the tear down, there was no sign of four corner piston seizer or piston damage...then I would look into the bottom end could be a bearing tightening up on you...usually a middle one...also I would check to make sure that you didn't melt down a crank seal...do a seal test...good luck and post back please...
 
theblues said:
Dued, you have to let that engine cool down when you make hard pulls like that...you just can't shut it off...got to idle the heat out of it...same goes when your ready for a hard pull, you got to bring it up to temp...piston expand faster than the cylinders...the way you mentioned that it quit on you and when you did the tear down, there was no sign of four corner piston seizer or piston damage...then I would look into the bottom end could be a bearing tightening up on you...usually a middle one...also I would check to make sure that you didn't melt down a crank seal...do a seal test...good luck and post back please...

^ 100% right!!!!!
 
i didnt tare it down yet. i just put it back together wednsday and yesterday(when it seized) was the first ride on it. should i tare it abck down? or just do a seal test with carb cleaner and a compression test?. it seems to run good now pulls hard threw out the shift. it shifts out to 8100 till around 60 then slowly levels off at 7500-7600. i think that just ahs to do with my clutching. also i geared down one tooth on top.

should i def tare it down again and chech every thing out? should i split the case?
 
If it's a bearing, you got lucky...it did not spin in the case...you will feel a little drag ratchet like to the bearing...you will know when you feel it...it not the same as the others...a lot cheaper now than later...good luck...
 
that sled doesn't have a thermostat bro, you can't just jump on them and start beating the hell out of them without letting them warm up, you will pay the price sooner or later. I always let them run without moving at least a REAL 5 mins, not 2 mins that people call 5 minutes. And then even when i do get going i am very nice to it for a couple miles until everything gets warmed up. Never understood all the morons that stop at bars and stuff that just jump on their sled cold and are punching it and beating on it as soon as it runs without the choke. Some people.....Anyway....open that thing up and take a look at everything, something ain't right. And you are definately under revving on top end. Could mean you are down on power on top, or your clutching is WAY off.
 
Not sure if its bad or not but I start them up then let sit for a minute then take off and run slow around the yard and down the drive to let warm up. I usually never get over 25. I never had a problem. I have tried to let them sit by themselves and warm for 5 minutes and then when I go to take off they run like crap. But I am also jetted richer then I should be.
But yea you should not jump on and hammer it.
 
i normaly dont. but we were bringin a grill back so we could cook and every one was hungry.

Ya still had to wait for the grill to heat up.....Right? Were ya feeding Ethiopians or something?

Never understood all the morons that stop at bars and stuff that just jump on their sled cold

Thats probably the biggest motor failure next too burndowns, actually it's probably more common, but since the motor still runs decent most people don't even know they have motor damage.
 
This is excactly what happend to me. After hard pull engine jammed. Couldn't pull rope out. After 10min engine turned ok and started her again with no problems (because i was middle of nowhere) I ride back about 10 miles and everything was ok. After i got back i took jugs out and one piston was made 4 corner seizure. Jug was cracked between exh. ports and cylinder skirt was cracked from both corners.

This is why i suggest to open that motor. Problem with my cylinder was Wiseco piston vs. too tight bore.
 
well just tore the sled apart and it was a little more then a cold seize. lets see im exhaust side im missing a 1/2 inch and a 1 inch piece of ring off my PTO piston. head is smashed in. and lets see 1/4 inch off the the center piston and my PTO cylinder is smoked. good news is my mag is running perfect. now im pretty well set for parts other then the head. may be looking for one of those. i may use the one off my brothers, whats where im getting the other parts. but it heated up alot and warped when he blew his exchanger i think. its like brown instead of red. pistons and cylinders look fine tho.

i think the culprit was the boss bottle i make out of PVC and put on. i didnt do a leak test on the threaded joints after i got it together like i should have. stupid me. it was it was either that or those little clamps they use were strong enough cause i had thoes on the cylinders that blew and the mag which was fine and running perfect(plus nice and tan) i used a hose clamp. but any way bottles coming off. just thought id give u guys an update so u guys can yell at me cause i kinda deserve it and need it. lol
 
Just got my cold seized cylinder from repair... and do yoy think i need to use hydraulic press :o|

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