2000 feet radar .....8dn-00 4.5 rivet both hole 50/43 helix 8700 rpm at the end......108 mph
yamaholic22
Active member
You dont tell of suspension setup, studded or not, what kind of track, etc. But that is about average for an srx in trail form stock. Can usually do a lot better with some tuning.
stock suspension ..no studd .1 inch ripsaw ..22 37 gear...
what primary spring? I am looking at your clutch specs and for you to be revving 8700 with a 43 finish and 8dn-00 weights with 2, 4.5 rivets in it, thats 53.25 grams and has me asking. This is the corect weight right?
dalton green spring 57 129 and use red stock secondary at 70 wrap
yes i switch from 8dn-20 to 8dn-00 during the day and i did 3 same run 108 mph
so not sure if it will help tp go from 22 to 23 top gear for top end
your over revving a 98 srx by 400 rpm then, you want 8300 on the 98-99 srx's.Do you have any other helix with a shallower finish angle? do you have any other primary springs to choose from?
i have w-w-w yamaha spring ...shallower mean more close to 47 or like 40
i think it was like 1500 my friend think it was not 2000
??? any other idea
deekersrx700
New member
drill new holes in your limiter straps 2 inches up from the bottom hole, loosen your front shock of your rear suspension right off, loosen rear shock till about 1 inch left in threads, use old sx sliders, add small wheel kit, loosen ski shocks right off, keep your transfer rods tight so you keep the front end on the ground, tape up holes in cab except the 2 next to the headlight, dull carbides, .75 camo track with 120 studs if on ice. You should run your stock gearing, 23-37 for your 98. you'll gain 5-7 mph with this at least, put wife or girlfriend on sled equalls another 3 mph, lol.
those are some good tips. Do you have any other helix to work with? shallower finish means a lower number angle. we can work with the rest of the clutch parts, the w/w/w spring will work better but it depends on what you have for helix's to choose from.
no only have the stock 47 straight ... but why a lower number will lower my rpm at full speed that weird .. was sure it was the opposite
well if you wanted to load the motor more on top end without doing any real clutch tuning, yes you could just increase the finish angle, however the motor may not pull the finish angle and in between the shift from 50 to 47 it may just make noise, lose rpm for a distance before gaining it back and the clutch's get ahead of the power curve of the engine.
I like to use a wide spread helix, doing this with a shallower finish allows the user to run a looser secondary spring(more top speed) and slows the shift down allowing the motor to keep up with the clutch's, this also will enable you to run more tip weight in the front clutch to controll the rpm's, this equates to squeezing the belt in both the primary and secondary clutch.
I like to use a wide spread helix, doing this with a shallower finish allows the user to run a looser secondary spring(more top speed) and slows the shift down allowing the motor to keep up with the clutch's, this also will enable you to run more tip weight in the front clutch to controll the rpm's, this equates to squeezing the belt in both the primary and secondary clutch.
ok i understand !!!!! thnx again
Do you have any 8bu's.I have a a set up that will run 109 in a 1000ft with 8bu weights and a straight 47 but you have to gear way up.
no but ill try to beat that speed next time on a open lake not only 1500 feet
what happend if i'm out of clutch after 1500 feet ..belt is a 1/4 of the top of the clutch... do u think i need to gear up .. or the sled will go faster anyways if the clutch are completly close ????
with stock gearing your not out of gear at those speeds your running.