SRX backshift

archer

archer

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Joined
Jul 16, 2004
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270
Location
Brighton MI
2000 SRX 8dn-20 4.5 in each hole, WWW primary, 51/43 Hauck with green spring wound to 70. Launches nice, right to 8100 climbing to 8400 or so before I let off because with the ski's off the ground it pulls to the right (limiter straps must be unequal, right?). I let off throttle till it touches down then right back on it rpms hang at 7800 for a couple seconds them climb back over 8100. Backshift seems a little slow. Is this normall for this setup? RPMs do make it to 8600 on the ice and I dont have to worry about the side of the road.
Recent suspension upgrades seem to work nice, thanks BTV. Smooth ride, corners very nice and no back or neck pains after a day of riding well-used trails. I need to back off rear preload a turn or two to get it perfect! Oh ya, a little darty now at lower speeds, I think a new pair of C&A's from Rich like I put on Kims sled and a little tweaking will fix that up.

Doug

PS. Do you think this will Jinx me?
 

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That is the same setup I am going to run on my 2002 SRX.Gotto change inner rivet to 4.5g which I will do today.Ordered a w-w-w spring from my dealer,should be in Friday.Got the 51/43 Dalton Helix installed at 70 wrap for now.Sled pulls like a madman right now.Still playing with my suspension set-up .Got to get a working tach so I can follow my rpm's.Really lifts up ski's when I launch and usually will twist to the right also.My limiters are set up apprx.1.5 inches.0 preload on center shock,FRA at middle point and rear shock preload is 3.5" tightened up with the nut.I have 144 picks on my track and she hauls a$$.Was lifting ski's 2 feet until I backed off the center shock and tightened up limiters 1/2"If I moved the FRA position to softest,this should help on the bumps I hope.What is your exact positions of limiters and rear shocks.Also what is your pre-load on the front shocks?
 
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Front shocks are real tight, almost all the way, FRA on soft, front suspension sring is almost loose, rear needs to be backed off a couple turns, its about 3/4 tight. I think I'll mees around with the limiters and see what that will do for me. The trouble is that I am in southern MI and my best riding is at the cabin in N MI. The road there is flat, smooth, totally packed snow and no traffic. A few more days of the cold we have now though and I can take it over to the local lake for a few test runs.
 
backshift will improve with more secondary twist, however you will lose topend mph, to get something in clutching you must give something in clutching! You can play with the secondary twist to tune it into the type of riding you do 90 percent of the time, if your not running wide open on lakes all the time dont run a loose secondary spring. So to improve the backshift for tight trails or on and off the gas alot, try 80-90 degrees and see how you like it.
 
When you say 90 degrees or 80 degrees of wrap you are referring to the spring setting on the secondary i'm assuming, My question is this.... When you pull the helix off the secondary and pull the spring out, there is 3 holes in the actual clutch (inside sheave) are these for the different settings?? They are numbered 1 through 3 on mine, and then i have the numbers on the actual helix itself. How would i go about getting a 60 degree wrap?? Number 6 on the helix??? I'm a little confused as to why there is 3 different holes on the sheave itself and they are numbered. Any help on this would be appreciated
 
yes its the wrap I am referring to, for example if you wanted to set 60 degrees wrap youd use #3 in the clutch and #3 on helix, 3+3=6, (x10 with all settings, but adding them up tells you the degree of twist) =60, if you wanted to go to 80 degrees youd use #2 in clutch and #6 in helix,6+2=8, x10 =80 degrees. You get the idea I am sure. the reason for 3 holes and in clutch and other holes in helix are so you can use differnt twist to tune it to what your trying to achive.
 
i have exact setup as metioned above on my 2000

last year, with a 22tooth top gear it was perfect 8500 the whole range, maybe 8700 at top end. this is with red secondary at 70

this year I went back to teh 23 top gear ( easier to cruise at 80mph) and I added Nitrous so I thought that I wouldn't need the geardown

well, at the first half of the shiftout I am right at 8400, but then at the top half, i am pulling to 8900 or 9000 ( this is off the NOS)

with nos i pull to 9200 ( another topic)


So.. Question
are there bigger rivits than 4.5 for my tip, will this help

I am down to 60 on the red spring but still pulling 8900-9000
what about green, will this help drop top rpm, or be even higher rpm

is there another helix that might help?

Ramb
 
you simply need adjustable aftermarket weights trying to do that, but will tell ya one thing, you will never have the sled great running off the NOS as it wont pull the clutch weight the same as when on the bottle so let it be known, its gonna be more of a slouch off the bottle or on the bottle depending on which way you set up the weights. Anything over 8600rpm on a stock srx cdi box =slow sled!
 
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