TJ500
Member
it's been about a month since I ran my sleds.. vacation, too cold etc... anyway, I'm getting ready to go to the cabin next weekend and starting both sleds yesterday to load them onto the trailer (both were covered outside) and I must have pulled each about 50 f*****g times before even a fire of the piston...
every time they are unused for an extended time, it takes forever to get them started..
HAS ANYONE EVER INSTALLED A PRIMER BULB for easier starting? I know the bowls must be empty of fuel and need those pulls to fill them up again....
where is the best place to put one to fill three and two carbs quickly?..
-25C yesterday and very tough to pull over my tripple...
any help with an istallation would be appreciated.. tj
PS...Also tired of spilling fuel in cylinders and replacing plugs to get it to fire... that too must be done three or four times...
every time they are unused for an extended time, it takes forever to get them started..
HAS ANYONE EVER INSTALLED A PRIMER BULB for easier starting? I know the bowls must be empty of fuel and need those pulls to fill them up again....
where is the best place to put one to fill three and two carbs quickly?..
-25C yesterday and very tough to pull over my tripple...
any help with an istallation would be appreciated.. tj
PS...Also tired of spilling fuel in cylinders and replacing plugs to get it to fire... that too must be done three or four times...
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Your lucky you didn't snap your pull rope or you would really be cursing my friend.Goes the same for me.If not running for 2 weeks or so,took me 21 pulls for my SXR.When it gets super cold like this,I will put a halegen heat lamp over the cylinders to warm things up.Then it would fire up quickly.
TJ500
Member
or even an inline water heater/engine heater..... my back is crooked from yanking so damn much... A great day to eat Naproxen and drink beer...
ANYONE?... install a primer bulb on thier tripple or twin?
ANYONE?... install a primer bulb on thier tripple or twin?
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
sockeyerun
Test Dummy
If your saying that your having problems starting your sleds after sitting in cold weather for awhile which happens to my friends and I periodically. I think I have a cure for you to try next time. I have come to the conclusion its the fuel pump needs to be heated up. Believe this or not a hand warmer(the kind you open and shake up) laid on the top will thaw it out in a couple minutes, I always carry several in my pack. Of course a hair dryer works to, but I have done this at remote cabins when it was well below zero during the night. Try it, Good luck Soc
bajardine
New member
I have not tried it yet but I am seriously contemplating it. After sitting for a few days or more my MM700 if tough to pull over. It takes 10-30 pulls. I did install a primer bulb on my powered parachute that works really well. I put a T in the fuel line before the fuel pump that runs to the primer bulb. The 1/8" tubing runs from the primer bulb and T's off to the two carbs. The tubing attaches to the existing barbed fittings already on the carbs. With a few squirts from the bulb the engine fires or pops on the first 1-2 pulls. It's powered by a 583 Rotax engine. I just haven't worked up the nerve to pull out everything on my sled to get to the lines and install it. Not sure where to put the bulb. Thought about the dash next to the hand warmer control. I could take a picture or two tonight of my setup on the powered parachute if you like TJ500. It would be nice to not have to mess with starting fluid, handwarmers, hairdryer, etc.
Bruce
Bruce
USE THIS TRICK WITH CAUTION !!!
A trick that I use after summer storage is to slightly (and I mean ever so slightly) pressurize the gas tank through the vent hose. I keep the cap partially loose just to control the pressure better. This pushes fuel through the pump and fills the carb bowls with fuel. Too much pressure and you can blow the vent fitting out of the tank, or damage you fuel pump or needle valves in the carbs. It is also easy to push fuel right into the engine which could cause a hydrolock condition. However, used cautiously this saves a good number of pulls on the rope.
USE THIS TRICK WITH CAUTION !!!
One thing to note though, if you are seeing this much evaporation or leakdown after only sitting a couple weeks or so, you likely have other problems such as leaking needle valves, or leakback at the fuel pump, etc.
A trick that I use after summer storage is to slightly (and I mean ever so slightly) pressurize the gas tank through the vent hose. I keep the cap partially loose just to control the pressure better. This pushes fuel through the pump and fills the carb bowls with fuel. Too much pressure and you can blow the vent fitting out of the tank, or damage you fuel pump or needle valves in the carbs. It is also easy to push fuel right into the engine which could cause a hydrolock condition. However, used cautiously this saves a good number of pulls on the rope.
USE THIS TRICK WITH CAUTION !!!
One thing to note though, if you are seeing this much evaporation or leakdown after only sitting a couple weeks or so, you likely have other problems such as leaking needle valves, or leakback at the fuel pump, etc.
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Another easy way to do this is to pull the plugs and then pull it 20times or so. (much easier to pull with the plugs removed).
When I clean carbs and get ready to fire it up for the first time after the cleaning (float bowls are ofcourse empty) I always do it this way and it seems to work fine.. normally starts on 2-6pull.
But, I`ve sometimes started thinking about the vaccum being created inside the engine when the plugs are removed, since the fuel pump is run by vaccum. But, it does deliver gas if you pull it over with the plugs removed.. so.. .
I don`t think the gas in the bowls will disappear if you let the sled sit for long.
On my dirtbike I always lean it over to the side (this makes empties the float bowl, gas flows out of the overflow lines), this way I fill the bowl with "fresh" gas. I personally don`t think old gas is worse then new gas, but on my dirtbike it always starts easier when I do that.
On the other hand, the gas in the bowl is just as old as the gas in the tank (if I didn`t put more gas in it), so basically there shouldn`t be any difference.. but well.. I don`t know.. .
My SRX was so hard to get started after sitting for 6months that I almost thought something was very wrong. But now it can sit for 2 weeks and then starts on the 7-8th pull. If it sits for a day or two it normally starts on 3-4th pull.
But back to topic, primers are great
.
When I clean carbs and get ready to fire it up for the first time after the cleaning (float bowls are ofcourse empty) I always do it this way and it seems to work fine.. normally starts on 2-6pull.
But, I`ve sometimes started thinking about the vaccum being created inside the engine when the plugs are removed, since the fuel pump is run by vaccum. But, it does deliver gas if you pull it over with the plugs removed.. so.. .
I don`t think the gas in the bowls will disappear if you let the sled sit for long.
On my dirtbike I always lean it over to the side (this makes empties the float bowl, gas flows out of the overflow lines), this way I fill the bowl with "fresh" gas. I personally don`t think old gas is worse then new gas, but on my dirtbike it always starts easier when I do that.
On the other hand, the gas in the bowl is just as old as the gas in the tank (if I didn`t put more gas in it), so basically there shouldn`t be any difference.. but well.. I don`t know.. .
My SRX was so hard to get started after sitting for 6months that I almost thought something was very wrong. But now it can sit for 2 weeks and then starts on the 7-8th pull. If it sits for a day or two it normally starts on 3-4th pull.
But back to topic, primers are great
.TJ500
Member
bajardine said:
Thanks... I'm just wondering however, isn't fuel pre-mixed for those ultralight Rotax engines?... If so, queezing fuel into the bowls would work great because 2 stroke oil would already be present... On our sleds with oil injection, getting mixed fuel into the carb bowls with a primer is more complicated....
Might not hurt anything for first moment but that is why I started this post.. Open to all suggestions... thanks
tj..
bajardine
New member
No, on my setup the Rotax engine is oil injected. The oil lines go to the carburetor boots much like the old Phazer setup if I remember the Phazers correctly. The primer lines connect to the throat of the carb after the butterfly/slide. It's really just like pulling the plugs and pouring in a little gas. It would be unmixed but it takes only a couple shots of fuel usually to get it running. With the engine turning over it doesn't take much to fill the carb bowls. I meant to snap a photo last night of my setup but I forgot. I'll try to get to it tonight.
In fact I was thinking about this more yesterday. I am now determined to do this to my sled. My brother has a pair of Mountain Max's as well and he has a hard time as well starting them when they're cold. I'd sure like to show up to go riding and be able to push the bulb a few times and pull it over. Man, I hate starting them cold.
Bruce
In fact I was thinking about this more yesterday. I am now determined to do this to my sled. My brother has a pair of Mountain Max's as well and he has a hard time as well starting them when they're cold. I'd sure like to show up to go riding and be able to push the bulb a few times and pull it over. Man, I hate starting them cold.
Bruce
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bajardine
New member
Primer bulb setup
Here are two pics of my primer bulb setup. You'll have to ingnore the dirt and grime. The powered parachute's been sitting in the garage collecting dust for months. The first pic shows where I put a T in the fuel line before the fuel pump. The 1/8" fuel line runs over to the primer bulb from there. From the bulb it runs over and tees off to each carb. I attached the primer line to the barbed vacuum fitting on each carb throat that was already there. It is in the carb throat just after the slide.
The system works great. I used to have a hard time starting this engine but not anymore. After a couple of squirts the engine fires. It may take 1-3 times to fill the carb bowls and stay running but it's no sweat. I was looking at my sled last night for a place to put one. I was thinking about the dash right next to the hand warmer knob. I could tee into the fuel line coming from the tank before it hits the fuel pump. I could then run the primer line up to the bulb, back down around the side of the airbox, and across the rack of carbs, teeing off to each carb. I think I'll do this the next time I pull the carbs. Dennis Kirk sells the kit for $15. I'll attach a picture and the web address of the kit.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...Id=311&productId=p1861&leafCatId=31104&mmyId=
Hope this gives you some ideas TJ500.
Bruce
Here are two pics of my primer bulb setup. You'll have to ingnore the dirt and grime. The powered parachute's been sitting in the garage collecting dust for months. The first pic shows where I put a T in the fuel line before the fuel pump. The 1/8" fuel line runs over to the primer bulb from there. From the bulb it runs over and tees off to each carb. I attached the primer line to the barbed vacuum fitting on each carb throat that was already there. It is in the carb throat just after the slide.
The system works great. I used to have a hard time starting this engine but not anymore. After a couple of squirts the engine fires. It may take 1-3 times to fill the carb bowls and stay running but it's no sweat. I was looking at my sled last night for a place to put one. I was thinking about the dash right next to the hand warmer knob. I could tee into the fuel line coming from the tank before it hits the fuel pump. I could then run the primer line up to the bulb, back down around the side of the airbox, and across the rack of carbs, teeing off to each carb. I think I'll do this the next time I pull the carbs. Dennis Kirk sells the kit for $15. I'll attach a picture and the web address of the kit.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...Id=311&productId=p1861&leafCatId=31104&mmyId=
Hope this gives you some ideas TJ500.
Bruce
Attachments
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TJ500
Member
thanks.. for pics and link... I'm just sick of pulling..
M-Max
New member
I think you guys have other problems.
My 01 MM always starts by the 6th pull.
Usually on 3 or 4.
The only exception is in the fall. I then pull 1 plug and pour
50 to 1 gas oil into the cylinder. Takes 2 or 3 times.
I don't think the carbs should evaporate or drain in a couple of weeks.
My 01 MM always starts by the 6th pull.
Usually on 3 or 4.
The only exception is in the fall. I then pull 1 plug and pour
50 to 1 gas oil into the cylinder. Takes 2 or 3 times.
I don't think the carbs should evaporate or drain in a couple of weeks.
mustangzrule
New member
Honestly, I just shoot about 1 second of starter fluid in the airbox, pull half choked 1-2 times, then full choke. Starter fluid will not ruin the engine if used sparingly and anything is chepaer than a replacement back. It works great to clean off fouled plugs as well.
Why cut and reroute fuel lines if you don't have to?
Why cut and reroute fuel lines if you don't have to?
