Canuck
New member
Sled - 1999 Vmax 600 Triple, clutches are clean, no visible wear, weights have no flat spots, everything moves freely, offset is good, centers are at 10 9/16" (Spec 10.570 +/- .059). Sled was purchased this year, it was owned by an 82 yr old man and probably never saw over 100 km/h.
Problem - 500 RPM over rev (9000), it pulls hard to 140 km/h and then seems to stop accelerating. This is with a used 8DN belt (belt is in good condition 34.5mm wide).
Changed to a new 8DN 34.5mm wide, over rev is gone (8500), but the belt squeals at idle and deceleration. Sled still seems to stop accelerating at 140 km/h but runs really strong to that point, sled has a 1" Camo on it and runs neck and neck with my Viper to 140.
Checked the belts and the inside of the cogs on the old belt are worn down about 1mm. My first thought was the clutch centers are too far apart, but they are right on spec. So do I try another 8DN or do I move my clutch centers in to 10 1/2"?
Here are some pictures showing that the primary isn't shifting out far enough and the worn cogs. The OEM belt for this sled is an 8DN but it's almost like it's the wrong belt, maybe I should try the 89L on it?
Problem - 500 RPM over rev (9000), it pulls hard to 140 km/h and then seems to stop accelerating. This is with a used 8DN belt (belt is in good condition 34.5mm wide).
Changed to a new 8DN 34.5mm wide, over rev is gone (8500), but the belt squeals at idle and deceleration. Sled still seems to stop accelerating at 140 km/h but runs really strong to that point, sled has a 1" Camo on it and runs neck and neck with my Viper to 140.
Checked the belts and the inside of the cogs on the old belt are worn down about 1mm. My first thought was the clutch centers are too far apart, but they are right on spec. So do I try another 8DN or do I move my clutch centers in to 10 1/2"?
Here are some pictures showing that the primary isn't shifting out far enough and the worn cogs. The OEM belt for this sled is an 8DN but it's almost like it's the wrong belt, maybe I should try the 89L on it?
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Concept Carbon
New member
my sx700 did the same thing ended up being the adjustment bolts on the back of the clutch where worn down, get new ones and remove some washers.
Canuck
New member
I shall give that a try....thanks!!
The squealing is likely caused by not enough belt deflection which is adjusted by changing washers on those bolts mentioned above. Those bolts only affect how far the secondary is allowed to close. While this may be the problem with the belt squealing, it should not affect shift out. The change in belts may have affected shift out if the fully closed primary did not cause the belt to ride all the way up.
Did the new belt remove the the mark on the primary at full shift out?
If it did not, then I would suspect binding in one of the clutches, likely the primary.
Did the new belt remove the the mark on the primary at full shift out?
If it did not, then I would suspect binding in one of the clutches, likely the primary.
Canuck
New member
No, the new belt didn't remove the mark but it also never had a long full throttle run with the new belt. You can see the old marks in the primary where the belt had ridden higher at some point in the past, you can see where it normally ran and where it occasionally ran higher.
I just removed 1mm of shim washers from the secondary, I'll get him (my son) to go out and give it a try. We're in the middle of a snow squall so I don't know if he will be able to do a good run.
I'm going to order new bolts and some .5mm shim washers to get it spot on.
I will post what happens.
Thanks!!
I just removed 1mm of shim washers from the secondary, I'll get him (my son) to go out and give it a try. We're in the middle of a snow squall so I don't know if he will be able to do a good run.
I'm going to order new bolts and some .5mm shim washers to get it spot on.
I will post what happens.
Thanks!!
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Concept Carbon
New member
Ding said:
i thought this also but my sx was shifting at 9100 to 9200 untill i changed the bolts then it was fine if the belt is real tight it will not ride up the primary right.
Canuck
New member
UpDate
Took it out for a run lastnight with the adjusted secondary and a new 8DN on it.
- no squeal
- shift was about 8600 on a WOT run
- sled now tops out at 150 km/h
- it's shifting further but not as far as it should
It feels like there is more top end there (seems to stop accelerating at 150 now) but we'll need a longer run to test it.
The only other thing that may have some effect on this is the gearing, we removed the reverse and ended up going up a tooth on the top gear. The sled pulls really strong but maybe the slightly higer gearing is having some effect on the top end shift out?
Thanks!!
Took it out for a run lastnight with the adjusted secondary and a new 8DN on it.
- no squeal
- shift was about 8600 on a WOT run
- sled now tops out at 150 km/h
- it's shifting further but not as far as it should
It feels like there is more top end there (seems to stop accelerating at 150 now) but we'll need a longer run to test it.
The only other thing that may have some effect on this is the gearing, we removed the reverse and ended up going up a tooth on the top gear. The sled pulls really strong but maybe the slightly higer gearing is having some effect on the top end shift out?
Thanks!!
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daman
New member
Whats your wrap at?
gild
New member
helix
I thought there was an issue with OE helixs botttoming out on the brg shoulder affecting full upshift. We see a lot of machined helixs on trail sleds set for speed. Mnt riding not an issue.Gearing up can slow you down if you don't have the power
I thought there was an issue with OE helixs botttoming out on the brg shoulder affecting full upshift. We see a lot of machined helixs on trail sleds set for speed. Mnt riding not an issue.Gearing up can slow you down if you don't have the power
Canuck
New member
Daman - It's at 60. The spec for that sled is 90/80/60 for some reason, SX and ER both had the triple that year but slightly different gearing.
Gild - I was wondering the same thing about the helix and the gearing. I wonder if cutting/clearancing the helix does anything on a stock sled? I think I'm geared to high. It's interesting that the SX 600 triple is geared lower than the ER 600 triple.
99 ER - 21/39 (1.85)
99 SX - 21/40 (1.90)
00 SX - 20/39 (1.95)
I just ordered a 21T top gear.
Gild - I was wondering the same thing about the helix and the gearing. I wonder if cutting/clearancing the helix does anything on a stock sled? I think I'm geared to high. It's interesting that the SX 600 triple is geared lower than the ER 600 triple.
99 ER - 21/39 (1.85)
99 SX - 21/40 (1.90)
00 SX - 20/39 (1.95)
I just ordered a 21T top gear.
Be carefull if you cut the helix. If you take too much away, secondery will open too much and belt will slip.
gild
New member
helix
You only cut up to the bushing about 1/8 " That is so the helix and sheeve do not hit which allows the sec clutch to open more. I don't think it affects belt slippage because nothing else changes.
You only cut up to the bushing about 1/8 " That is so the helix and sheeve do not hit which allows the sec clutch to open more. I don't think it affects belt slippage because nothing else changes.