Easiest way to remove Studs

EricMichael

EricMichael

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2005
Messages
543
Location
Presque Isle, ME
hey guys, I've read several post about the plastic backers not sucking the studs in far enough and causing the same vibration problem i'm having..this is the last thing to do on my list. I never noticed but I have about 96 studs with plastic backers and the studs aren't sucked in like the other 48 with metal backers. I'm having a hard time getting the studs out, keep stripping the allen wrenches. Would heating hte studs up and then wrenching them out help?they seem to be in there pretty good..just looking for some techniques that you guys have used, thanks! :winterrul
 
Just based on the principals of mechanics I would say that heating them up would help to get them out, but I don't know if you will be able to get them hot enough without burning the rubber on the track. That is the last thing that you want to do. Try penetrating oil.
 
Do NOT heat the studs. You will melt your track. Why are you taking the studs out? If you want to change the backers to alum. Just change the backers.
 
viper7mi said:
Do NOT heat the studs. You will melt your track. Why are you taking the studs out? If you want to change the backers to alum. Just change the backers.
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Your right, thats all i'm doing, but getting the lock nut off seems to be giving me a hard time..they spin out alittle then get real hard like the threads are messed up, but thier not, and i end up stripping the allen head if i put anymore force on them. It just seems ot be a pain :o|
 
a little trick to try, spray them with pb blaster and let them soak good, then get a small piece of flat steel stock about 3/16" thick, maybe 1" wide, and 15 to 16 " long. Now lay this flat inside the track across the heads of the studs, and in between the drive lugs. Spin the track by hand so the steel bar will be in the back of the rear idler wheel, between the track and idler wheel. This will apply alot of pressure to the head of the studs in the track, now using a impact air gun, try and remove the nuts, the impact is a must as it will spin the nut off fast enuff to break it loose and clean out the goop in the threads.

if this doesnt work, youll need a die grinder with cut off wheels.
 
I pulled 192 stud out with Impact wrench and only had to use the allen wrench on about 15-20. Studs where about 3 years old and had about 4500 miles on them.I did WD-40 them first.
 
There is always a couple that don't come out. i always try with a pair of visegrips on the head of the stud but usually have to cut them with a die grinder. watch not to cut the track though.
 
I always do as others said and use an impact wrench. By far the best method because it will tear right through the threads whether they are worn or not. Somebody else mentioned a vise grips but i dont see how the heck you would ever get a vise grips on the head of an installed stud if they are installed correctly. They should be flush with the track.
 
when i use the visegrips its when the nut gets a little bit loose but the head strips. then i try the visegrips first. they usually dont work though. so i cut the nut with a die grinder.
 
I just replaced 10 broken washers today and since you need to use new nuts anyhow I just heated the nut on the stud until the plastic nyloc started bubbling sprayed the stud with WD-40 held the stud with the allen and just turned the nut off with ratchet (no air compressor) Just be carful where you hold the torch.I needed to melt the ice out of the allen hole also so this kills two birds with one stone.I tried with out heating and it was damn near impossible.If you think your gonna start your track on fire then don't do it but it definitly is the easiest way if you wan re-use the stud and track. ;)!
 
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heat in the right areas wont burn your track.... i used a butane torch directly on the lock nut until the nylon started bubbling out and then it came right off.... make sure you aim the flame away from the track (between ribs) and down so it only hits the acutal nut, i did it right after sled came out of cold so the track was cold... and after i took each stud out i checked if track was hot and it was actually cold as ice..... by far easiest way to get em off

edit ^ that post was same concept as mine whoops..... and i used 18V dewalt drill with 3/8s adapter and a 1/2inch long socket
 
Bernz-o-matic the nut, use a t-handle allen wrench, and use a deep well 6 point socket with rachet. It's a slower process but most always positive for me on such conditions.
 
yamaholic22 said:
I always do as others said and use an impact wrench. By far the best method because it will tear right through the threads whether they are worn or not. Somebody else mentioned a vise grips but i dont see how the heck you would ever get a vise grips on the head of an installed stud if they are installed correctly. They should be flush with the track.
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yeah, the vise grips i've tried awhile back..def. a finger pincher if your not careful. You said the studs should be flush with the track, the studs i'm replacing had plastic backers and it didn't pull the stud down flush, it was leaving quite a bit sticking up, as the studs/backers I installed tonight brung the studs flush with the track. So hopefully no more broken boggy wheels and no more vibration, with them sticking up like that, I can just about imagine thats what was causing the vibration hitting on the drive cogs/boggies etc. Thanks for your guys's help, I ended up using a grinder and held it on the tip of the stud for awhile, didn't have to cut all the way through, just enough to heat it up and spin them off, worked pretty well!
 
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