Need more weight in hc's help

SNOWRULES

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Joined
Dec 18, 2005
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361
Age
40
Location
Ottawa. Ontario, Canada
I'm trying to add more weight to the tip of my hc's but i'm out of room to add more washers any suggestions? i'm using the 4.0 gram bolt with 3, 0.8 gram washers right now for a total of 6.4g but i need more. i already ground the bolt head as far as i can and still get it off but there's not enough room to add another washer. i've tried to find different bolts to fit the weight but have had no luck. any tips would be great.
 

You can add weight to the inner hole. When you are out of room at the tip go to the next hole & keep adding weight till rpm,s come in at where u want em. Sometimes you need more then heel & tip weight alone.
 
I forgot I ran into the same problem when I graas dragged.I think srxspec to me thunder products made them for the heavy hitters but they would work on the heel clickers
 
Pro; I just checked in my clutching stuff. Your gonna have to grind a little off the outside of the tungsten washers to make em work. The inner hole is fine but the outer circumference is a little to large. damn; it,s close but 1-2 mm,s off should get ya there.
 
turk i guess adding weight to the middle would also help the midrange pull would it not? right now i'm really close like i need maybe another gram tops. using a 50/38 dalton helix with 5.3 in the shoulder and 6.4 in the tip right now. engagement is a nice low 38-3900 find it hooks well with this on the snow. my motor is case ported by mr. viper and he said to run it at 8400 right now it shoots to 8400 off the line but once she hits about 160km/h the revs go up to like 8550 and i can actually feel it slipping a bit and lose some of it's power. after 160 it pulls to about 180 but alot slower like it needs a little more clamp at the end to keep from slipping. after a long pull out on the lake 3000' plus the secondary is barely warm but the primary is not really hot but pretty warm. i'm using a green secondary set at 60. i was tuning with a 51/36 dalton but found it was a bit much for the sled to pull off the start found i less track spin and better midrange pull with the 50/38.
 
problem youll find when you add weight to the middle hole is the engine will responsivness, the weight acts slower.

try lockwashers from hardware store, instead of the flat washers in kit, they weigh more.

Also I would try a helix with maybe a 39-40 finish and just try it once. That will load the engine more and drop the rpm. Dont change your front weight set up, just bolt in a differnt helix.

This is what you typically go thru when you tune something in to be smack on, lots of trial and error and lots of parts.
 
Mrviper is it wrong to try to add more weight or are you just suggesting that a different helix might work well. the motor seems to have no problem pulling the weight that's in it now no bog off the line and it pulls hard the whole way through. it still seems to top out around 180km/h on the speedo but feels like she wants to keep going if it weren't for that little bit of slip on the topend. like i said it seems like i only need to add at the most another gram i bet if i could get 7 g on the nose in the tip she would be bang on. would taking some weight out of the shoulder make her a little more snappy or would it make a difference? i still have a good quick backshift with the spring set at 60 if i upped the twist though to get a quicker backshift would that defeat the purpose of adding weight as it would make it harder to pull the belt down in the secondary. and my last question would using a softer red secondary help at all?
 
more weight will clamp the belt more, the better way to do it. get some lockwashers, they are heavier then the flat washers, try them first. The helix change is just something to try and see if it picks up mph up top, the motor likes to be loaded hard and tractor its way up in rpm.

The red spring will drop topend rpm some, will make a faster topend speed, but it will be some playing with it to see if it can hold the sled from overshifting in the take off and first part of the shift curve, try it around 80-90 and see what it does.

All this stuff is all trail and error, sometimes when you think you have something perfect, you change something else small and it either gains huge or it fails, this is why I keep notes, so I know what I changed and what the results were from the change.
 
SNOW, why don't you steal my Viper secondary with the 48/34 in it and try it on your machine? Not sure when you plan on going up to the lake, but I'll get you a key to my shed so you can get in.

Also I want to borrow your green secondary spring and try that with my setup. MrViper suggested I try that at 60-70 so I get my 100 RPMs back on the top end. If I haven't switched the spring by the time you go to try it, you might want to consider doing it. I think your machine will over power it the way it is currently setup (red at 80).

Send me a PM and let me know when you plan to go up. I'm not going this weekend either, but I could get my parents to grab the key for you.
 


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