mustangzrule
New member
I have a stock 2000 SRX700 and was wondering what the best low-cost trail/lake performance mods I can do. I'm mechanically experienced, but very new to this sled. I am beginning to understand some of the spring color codes, but beyond that I need forum experience. Anyone looking to part with medium performance parts for cash to upgrade to the next level, let me know.
I'm not looking to go extreme, I still want reliability, but I also want those Rev owners to stay outta my way....
I'm not looking to go extreme, I still want reliability, but I also want those Rev owners to stay outta my way....
get it studded if not done, and get it clutched (heel clicker or hauck #3 or #4 clutch kits are good. I have a hauck #3 kit in my 2000 srx, with ported jugs and 144 studs with a 1 inch lug track.
mustangzrule
New member
How much difference between #3 and #4 clutch? Do I need any special tools for the clutch alignment if I do this?
The sled already has a new 1" Camoplast when I bought it. The guy was meticulous about maintenance and the thing is CLEAN. He insisted on leaving everything stock and the launch is the same as the SXR single. I should eat that sled alive with 30 HP more.
1" track should have 1" studs, right? Sorry if I am asking a b00b question, but I am kinda new to sledding.
The sled already has a new 1" Camoplast when I bought it. The guy was meticulous about maintenance and the thing is CLEAN. He insisted on leaving everything stock and the launch is the same as the SXR single. I should eat that sled alive with 30 HP more.
1" track should have 1" studs, right? Sorry if I am asking a b00b question, but I am kinda new to sledding.
the #3 kit comes with haucks supplied primary and secondary clutch springs, helix, and rivets(nuts and bolts) to put in stock weights in primary clutch. If using #3 kit you will have to grind the existing rivets out of stock weights. I have not had any experience w/ #4 kit, just what I have read about it. I have seen a few guys on this sight that are or have used it. The #3 works very good for me with racing and trail riding. The name of the dealership is Hauck Powersports (www.hauckpowersportsinc.com) #(715)234-6195) located in Rice Lake, WI. good luck
You will need a yamaha primary clutch puller tool and maybe a spring press to change out both springs.
yahadriver23
New member
Transfer rods...with that skid, will help big time
SiR X700
New member
upgrades
Traction, depending on the conditions you ride in go to a 1.25 track.MAJOR difference from studded stock track
Traction, depending on the conditions you ride in go to a 1.25 track.MAJOR difference from studded stock track
yamaholic22
Active member
i say a good 1" camo hacksaw or predator track and 144-192 studs.
mustangzrule
New member
Sounds like studs, transfer rods, and a clutch - in that order? NOS is out of my league. If I have to blow a head gasket to win, I'll just keep second place and still have a sled. This thing has enough power to make me happy, I just can't hook up worth a crap on ice OR snow. She'll throw a rooster tail at 60 MPH but has a little missing low end grunt from a takeoff. That is probably the clutch?
I have heard good things about the Hauck clutch kits.
Thanks for all the info.
I have heard good things about the Hauck clutch kits.
Thanks for all the info.
one thing that is always overlooked is did they clip the track when they installed it. camo tracks will hit the guards if not clipped and cost you speed and gas.
also, the next improvement is to raise the bars an inch, and add long travel shocks.
1.175 studs for sure, also better skis.
also, the next improvement is to raise the bars an inch, and add long travel shocks.
1.175 studs for sure, also better skis.
mustangzrule
New member
BETHEVIPER said:
What do you mean by clip? I tried to search the site for track clipping, but could not find anything to help. Could you explain what that means? What guards?
Rambunctious
New member
mustang..
there are good recommendation for clutch compoent combinations ( kits) on this board.
the easiers, and cheapest is
WWW primary - raises engagement to 4200 ($20?)
replace 3.6 gram rivit with 4.5g rivit in clutch weights ( adds significant midrange accelleration) ($3.00)
replace 47Deg helix with 51/43 secondary helix off an RX1 ( works with aded rivit weight above)
and stock red secondary spring or green ( stiffer) secondary spring
I went from have Rev800Ho's beat me to beating all three Rev buddies with this combo and a 1" track ( which you have)
bottom line. on your 2000. tyou want the rpms to be 8300-8400 at the low end and hold 8500 ( no more) at the top end
playing with weight transfer off the line makes a big diff on these sleds too
( limiter straps, and gaps on transfer rods)
small changes make big differences
Ramb
there are good recommendation for clutch compoent combinations ( kits) on this board.
the easiers, and cheapest is
WWW primary - raises engagement to 4200 ($20?)
replace 3.6 gram rivit with 4.5g rivit in clutch weights ( adds significant midrange accelleration) ($3.00)
replace 47Deg helix with 51/43 secondary helix off an RX1 ( works with aded rivit weight above)
and stock red secondary spring or green ( stiffer) secondary spring
I went from have Rev800Ho's beat me to beating all three Rev buddies with this combo and a 1" track ( which you have)
bottom line. on your 2000. tyou want the rpms to be 8300-8400 at the low end and hold 8500 ( no more) at the top end
playing with weight transfer off the line makes a big diff on these sleds too
( limiter straps, and gaps on transfer rods)
small changes make big differences
Ramb
camo tracks will rub on the tunnel protectors and heat exchanger guards in stock form. clipping referes to cutting a relief for the guards to clear enough to alow the track to baloon a little without rubbing but leaving enough so the guards will keep the stud tips from hitting the tunnel and heat exchanger. pro action tunnels and guards were designed around a 3/4in track, if you trim your lug so it is 3/4 high where it will interfere.
if you have u style tunnel guards, you may want to remove them, they require you to remove alot more material from the track. use a table saw to make they into an L and align the guard so it is lined up with the front guards. then you will only need to clip the track about 3/4in wide.
dont let anyone tell you it will wear down, it takes forever. just did a venture that had 2200mld on the track and it might have had 1/8in cut down on it from wear.
if you have u style tunnel guards, you may want to remove them, they require you to remove alot more material from the track. use a table saw to make they into an L and align the guard so it is lined up with the front guards. then you will only need to clip the track about 3/4in wide.
dont let anyone tell you it will wear down, it takes forever. just did a venture that had 2200mld on the track and it might have had 1/8in cut down on it from wear.
mustangzrule
New member
I just ordered the WWW spring and the 4.5g rivets. For future reference anyone reading this thread, it's Yam P/N 90501-583L1-00 for the spring.
The helix is gonna have to wait till I get more $$$. I just had to replace a drive belt and have some other unexpected expenses come up.
Hopefully the stock helix will give improved performance with these mods.
I gotta look to see if anything's rubbing underneath. I have not noticed anything unusual. Then again, by the time the track balloons, I'm cruising too fast to hear anything but the roar of the wind....
Love this toy. Can't wait to get out on the lake this evening after **cough*** work.
The helix is gonna have to wait till I get more $$$. I just had to replace a drive belt and have some other unexpected expenses come up.
Hopefully the stock helix will give improved performance with these mods.
I gotta look to see if anything's rubbing underneath. I have not noticed anything unusual. Then again, by the time the track balloons, I'm cruising too fast to hear anything but the roar of the wind....
Love this toy. Can't wait to get out on the lake this evening after **cough*** work.
Rambunctious
New member
go to the TY 4-stroke site, or here on tY to their "wanted sections"
and ask for a 51/43
the 51/43 is from the RX1. so anyone who clutched their rx1 might have a 51/43 for sale cheap
MrViper or Turk or others may comment on the affect of your primary parts without the 51/43.
the"51" portion of the helix contributes allong with the 4.5g rivits in the heel to get the faster midrange shiftout( and therefore better midrange accelleration)
should still see improvement with your new parts to date.
Ramb
and ask for a 51/43
the 51/43 is from the RX1. so anyone who clutched their rx1 might have a 51/43 for sale cheap
MrViper or Turk or others may comment on the affect of your primary parts without the 51/43.
the"51" portion of the helix contributes allong with the 4.5g rivits in the heel to get the faster midrange shiftout( and therefore better midrange accelleration)
should still see improvement with your new parts to date.
Ramb