bajardine
New member
I'm looking for a little help dialing in my clutching for a '99 MM 700.
I burn up a belt about every 3-4 days of riding. I suspected my clutch alignment was off but I bought the tools and checked it. It was right on. I bought a set of SLP triple pipes and set up the clutching as their instructions recommended. The only thing I have not done is changed my top gear to a 21 tooth for the elevations I ride. My setup is as follows:
Primary Spring: stock w-s-w
Weights: stock 8CR's with
2.4 gr inner hole
.8 gr outer hole
3 Primary spring shims
Engagement RPM: 4100 RPM
Max RPM: jumps to 9000 builds to 9100
Secondary Spring: Silver @ 100 deg.
Helix: Stock 43 deg
The only thing different from SLP's recommendations is adding the .8 gr to the tip and not changing the top gear yet. I wouldn't think the gearing would affect my burning belts. Am I that wrong or is there something else I am missing? SLP recommends running 8700 - 8900 RPM. I think I need to add more tip weight, how much should I start with? Does anyone on here have a simmilar sled/setup?
I weigh 240 and do about 50% trail riding/boondocking and 50% climbing. Most of my riding ranges in the 7-10,000 ft range. I am planning on gearing down as I want the sled to accel at climbing most. Any help from you guys would be great.
Thanks,
Bruce
I burn up a belt about every 3-4 days of riding. I suspected my clutch alignment was off but I bought the tools and checked it. It was right on. I bought a set of SLP triple pipes and set up the clutching as their instructions recommended. The only thing I have not done is changed my top gear to a 21 tooth for the elevations I ride. My setup is as follows:
Primary Spring: stock w-s-w
Weights: stock 8CR's with
2.4 gr inner hole
.8 gr outer hole
3 Primary spring shims
Engagement RPM: 4100 RPM
Max RPM: jumps to 9000 builds to 9100
Secondary Spring: Silver @ 100 deg.
Helix: Stock 43 deg
The only thing different from SLP's recommendations is adding the .8 gr to the tip and not changing the top gear yet. I wouldn't think the gearing would affect my burning belts. Am I that wrong or is there something else I am missing? SLP recommends running 8700 - 8900 RPM. I think I need to add more tip weight, how much should I start with? Does anyone on here have a simmilar sled/setup?
I weigh 240 and do about 50% trail riding/boondocking and 50% climbing. Most of my riding ranges in the 7-10,000 ft range. I am planning on gearing down as I want the sled to accel at climbing most. Any help from you guys would be great.
Thanks,
Bruce
Last edited:
Silver at 100 can,t be right...no way. Silver at 60 is way lots but 100 is way out there.
gild
New member
01 SXr 700
I ride 7-8000ft and am geared 18/39 and would go lower if not for reverse. I can't imagine busting trail at 10,000 ft with a 21 top gear. I run SLPs and a 51 Dalton silver spring at 70 degrees for the shorter hills or a 51/43 silver at 60 degrees for the longer hills, 8 CRs with ? and spring ? 14.5 rollers, jetted at 138.8 real safe 50 pilots. runs at 9,000 Rs up till around 5,000 ft then 8,700 Rs at 7,000 ft where we ride. Just add gas and oil good milage for Mnt riding. Oh Forgot pulling a 151 Camo 2" too. Still running my 98 MSRX 8DN belt, just wont wear out.
I ride 7-8000ft and am geared 18/39 and would go lower if not for reverse. I can't imagine busting trail at 10,000 ft with a 21 top gear. I run SLPs and a 51 Dalton silver spring at 70 degrees for the shorter hills or a 51/43 silver at 60 degrees for the longer hills, 8 CRs with ? and spring ? 14.5 rollers, jetted at 138.8 real safe 50 pilots. runs at 9,000 Rs up till around 5,000 ft then 8,700 Rs at 7,000 ft where we ride. Just add gas and oil good milage for Mnt riding. Oh Forgot pulling a 151 Camo 2" too. Still running my 98 MSRX 8DN belt, just wont wear out.
bajardine
New member
Okay, so it looks like their specs for the setup are a little off. Should I turn the secondary back to 60 to 70 with the stock 43 helix and silver spring or should I go back to the green spring at 70 deg?
How about the clutch weights? How much should I add to bring my max RPMs down by 300? I'm hoping to go up this weekend and would like to change out the rivets before I go.
When my primary is fully shifted out, how far from the top of the sheave should the belt reach? I suspect the extra tension in the secondary might be preventing me from fully shifting out. I'm new to clutching and have ordered Olav Aaen's book on clutch tuning. I have a few of the basic ideas but I'd like to make some adjustments before this weekend. Unfortunately the book hasn't arrived yet.
How about the clutch weights? How much should I add to bring my max RPMs down by 300? I'm hoping to go up this weekend and would like to change out the rivets before I go.
When my primary is fully shifted out, how far from the top of the sheave should the belt reach? I suspect the extra tension in the secondary might be preventing me from fully shifting out. I'm new to clutching and have ordered Olav Aaen's book on clutch tuning. I have a few of the basic ideas but I'd like to make some adjustments before this weekend. Unfortunately the book hasn't arrived yet.
gild
New member
setup
Get ahold of TURK he is the clutchmaster. I was just commenting on how much more helix I pull with lower gears with no belt issues. I set my sled up this way 4 years ago and havn't touched the setup except for adding more mods. I can check spring and weights but I know the 8CRs work well for a yamaha stock weight.
Get ahold of TURK he is the clutchmaster. I was just commenting on how much more helix I pull with lower gears with no belt issues. I set my sled up this way 4 years ago and havn't touched the setup except for adding more mods. I can check spring and weights but I know the 8CRs work well for a yamaha stock weight.
gild
New member
mountain sled
Read Turks advice on Riding in Revelstoke in the Mountain Sled section in forums above this classification.
Read Turks advice on Riding in Revelstoke in the Mountain Sled section in forums above this classification.
bajardine
New member
gild, Thanks for the link. I read his advice. For anyone else, here's the link:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33098
It looks like I'm close then. I need to gear down and swap out the silver for the green stock secondary spring wrapped at 80. When I do get the gears, how much should I expect the change in gearing to affect my top engine RPM's? Should I bother adjusting rivets in my weights before I drop the gearing? Would I be wasting my time?
Can anybody else comment on how much tip weight would drop my RPMs by 300?
Bruce
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33098
It looks like I'm close then. I need to gear down and swap out the silver for the green stock secondary spring wrapped at 80. When I do get the gears, how much should I expect the change in gearing to affect my top engine RPM's? Should I bother adjusting rivets in my weights before I drop the gearing? Would I be wasting my time?
Can anybody else comment on how much tip weight would drop my RPMs by 300?
Bruce
If you drop you gearing + need 300rpm drop. I would say ~1 - 1,5g more on tip.
I hope Turk can doubble check this.
I hope Turk can doubble check this.
givemeaboost
New member
What belts are you running ? I've run Gates and Ultimax and never been able to get them to last over three hundred miles but put on the good old yammi 8dn and 1000-1500 miles are average.
bajardine
New member
I am running the yamaha 8DN belt. I dropped two teeth on my upper sproket and tested it out this weekend. It did wonders for my belt and clutches having the ratio set right. I guess I was pulling too tall of a ratio and the result was destroying a belt every 3-4 days of riding. Guess I learned a valuable lesson the hard/expensive way!
Bruce
Bruce