I have a 97 Vmax 600 xtc that I just had rebuilt (broken ring). Runs great but on a ride yesterday found that a coolant line had not be secured and it wore a hole in it. Can this hose be replaced with any rad type hose or does it need to be Yamaha part? Also, do you run straight antifreeze in these systems or soneting special?
daman
New member
Order one up from yamaha it will be pre-formed to fit right and the right size,VMAXFF said:
No you don't run straight antifreeze use a 60/40 mix with good water(bottled) or other.
i like Prestone
Thanks Daman! Do you need to bleed the system or will that be a problem?
FuzzButt
New member
Ya it needs to be bled. There is a proper bleed procedure in the tech pages.
daman
New member
Yes bleed the system,,(easy to do)try a search or tech pages
on that if not post back..
on that if not post back..
daman
New member
fast on the draw there fuzz..LOL
greg
New member
Check the mixing directions on the antifreeze you buy. At a certain point most antifreezes give less freezing protection when mixed past recommendations. Some brands the protection level drops if you mix above 50/50 while other brands don't drop until you go past a 70/30 mix. (antifreeze being the 1st number)
Check the tech pages for bleeding cooling System. It shows it for Viper. Vmax work the same way?
TJ500
Member
daman said:
be sure it's deionized / distilled water... some bottled water now comes fortified with essential minerals...
daman
New member
Right..thats what i ment..TJ500 said:
thats what the "other".... ment.
yamaholic22
Active member
Yup i always use distilled water so that you don't get fine metal deposits and possible corrosion going on in the cooling system. Also for that coolant line you can use whatever gates or goodyear rubber hose but it would probably be easier to just order it from yamaha that way it already has all the right bends in it. A hose shouldn't be real expensive either.
trapow33
New member
The same thing is happening to my wife's 600 sx and apparently it is user error (I rebuilt the engine a few wks back). I'm unable to find anything about a proper bleed. Please let me know if anyone has the link...
daman
New member
Step 1,
1.remove seat,and bumper cover
2.lift up tail of sled slightly higher than motor
3.remove bleed bolt on rear heat exchanger.
4.slowly adding coolant in bottle ,allow the coolant
to drain from rear bleed hole untill all air bubbles disappear, re-tighten bleed bolt set sled back down.
Step 2,
1. loosen/remove the bleed bolt on the water rail(by the on/off valve,have valve on,you also may...have to pull the knob out of the rail some to get it to flow out of the bleed hole)
2. Add coolant and alow to flow out untill all air bubbles disappear.
3.tighten bleed bolt, make sure system is full and cap is on.
Step 3,
Start the engine and run @ 2500 to 3000 rpm's till warmed up and
coolant circulates good, check heat exchangers should be warm
to the touch.re-check after sitting over night,top off coolant (a) if needed.
if air is still expected repeat above steps..
1.remove seat,and bumper cover
2.lift up tail of sled slightly higher than motor
3.remove bleed bolt on rear heat exchanger.
4.slowly adding coolant in bottle ,allow the coolant
to drain from rear bleed hole untill all air bubbles disappear, re-tighten bleed bolt set sled back down.
Step 2,
1. loosen/remove the bleed bolt on the water rail(by the on/off valve,have valve on,you also may...have to pull the knob out of the rail some to get it to flow out of the bleed hole)
2. Add coolant and alow to flow out untill all air bubbles disappear.
3.tighten bleed bolt, make sure system is full and cap is on.
Step 3,
Start the engine and run @ 2500 to 3000 rpm's till warmed up and
coolant circulates good, check heat exchangers should be warm
to the touch.re-check after sitting over night,top off coolant (a) if needed.
if air is still expected repeat above steps..
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