mountainmaxrider
New member
hey
a friend of mine told me about some trick that makes installing the rear proaction plus suspension alot easier. these suspensions are very hard to put on and i was told by doing this trick everything will line up. anyone knwo about this?
a friend of mine told me about some trick that makes installing the rear proaction plus suspension alot easier. these suspensions are very hard to put on and i was told by doing this trick everything will line up. anyone knwo about this?
xsivhp
Active member
Remove the bolts from the bottom of the transfer rods ...
Not sure what trick he is refering to but I usually loosen the bolt off the bottom of the transfer rod. Start buy bolting up the front arm. Then the shock arm and lastly the rear arm. If you loosen of the control rod bolt it makes it much easier to line up the rear holes. Hope this helps.
loosen drive shaft bearing set screws
back off the transfer rod lower bolts 3/8in
back off rear idler adjustment all the way, move axle ahead and tighten axle bolts.
put fra adjuster in the soft/upper setting.
lift sled so that the front shaft will just fit under the fram next to the drive shaft
put two short pieces of 1/2in pipe, one at each end through the drive lugs on the track
then slide the front into the track so it is headed tward center
now reach through the track and pull the skid tward you while lifting it up and down
lower rear of sled while holding back on skid to pull it behind the drive shaft
now install the front bolts, dont tighten
now go to the rear bolts, lower the sled onto them(two putty knives help to guide it past the inner braces)
install these bolts, dont tighten
now lift the back of the sled, the weight of the suspenion will lift the center/fra shaft into place, you may need to wiggle it a bit to get it up past the rivots(this is the reason for not tightening any bolts and loosening the bearing locks)
now tighten all suspension bolts
lock tight and tighten the bearing set screws
tightening the supsenion first will make sure that the bearing has no side load on it.
back off the transfer rod lower bolts 3/8in
back off rear idler adjustment all the way, move axle ahead and tighten axle bolts.
put fra adjuster in the soft/upper setting.
lift sled so that the front shaft will just fit under the fram next to the drive shaft
put two short pieces of 1/2in pipe, one at each end through the drive lugs on the track
then slide the front into the track so it is headed tward center
now reach through the track and pull the skid tward you while lifting it up and down
lower rear of sled while holding back on skid to pull it behind the drive shaft
now install the front bolts, dont tighten
now go to the rear bolts, lower the sled onto them(two putty knives help to guide it past the inner braces)
install these bolts, dont tighten
now lift the back of the sled, the weight of the suspenion will lift the center/fra shaft into place, you may need to wiggle it a bit to get it up past the rivots(this is the reason for not tightening any bolts and loosening the bearing locks)
now tighten all suspension bolts
lock tight and tighten the bearing set screws
tightening the supsenion first will make sure that the bearing has no side load on it.
BTV has it well covered above . . .
Another tip for the rear bolts is to apply pressure down and forward on the rear axle (just press on the outside of the track). This takes up the slack in the control rods, and brings the holes right in line.
Another tip for the rear bolts is to apply pressure down and forward on the rear axle (just press on the outside of the track). This takes up the slack in the control rods, and brings the holes right in line.
mountainmaxrider
New member
ok....i think BETHEVIPER knows what i'm talking about
thanks for the help!
thanks for the help!
snoden700viper
Member
If you have a shop dolly this works well too. I've been using it for years. Using a tie down strape for adjusting the height of the sled and suspension is the key. The only thing required is removing the rear axle. Just makes getting the suspension in and out alot esier.
Raise the back of the sled to slide the suspension in place, it's real easy with the back of the sled high. Put the front of suspension on top of the drive axle and she just slides right in. Once the suspension is in place lower the sled some and reposition the suspension with the front under the drive axles. Now it's ready to be bolted in.
Place a 4" X 4" under the track towards the front of the suspension and lower the sled slowly to get the front holes lined up, install bolts but don't tighten. Remove 4" X 4".
Lower the sled a liitle more to line up the rear bolts and install but dont tighten.
You will have to push up on the middle axle some, it don't take much and install those bolts.
Now you can torque all bolts and install the rear axle with the back of the sled up.
When you have no one to help you find ways to make it easy. This way is easy with very little effort (manhandle) those suspensions.
Raise the back of the sled to slide the suspension in place, it's real easy with the back of the sled high. Put the front of suspension on top of the drive axle and she just slides right in. Once the suspension is in place lower the sled some and reposition the suspension with the front under the drive axles. Now it's ready to be bolted in.
Place a 4" X 4" under the track towards the front of the suspension and lower the sled slowly to get the front holes lined up, install bolts but don't tighten. Remove 4" X 4".
Lower the sled a liitle more to line up the rear bolts and install but dont tighten.
You will have to push up on the middle axle some, it don't take much and install those bolts.
Now you can torque all bolts and install the rear axle with the back of the sled up.
When you have no one to help you find ways to make it easy. This way is easy with very little effort (manhandle) those suspensions.
VenomMod
New member
I use the same method snoden700viper, it works really great and smooth when you're doing it yourself.
BETHEVIPER said:
Still don't understand why you loosen the bearing set screws?
because the front drive axle bearing holds the front of the tunnel together. this alows the tunnel to spread making the suspension go in easier. you tighten the set screw down after bolts are tight so it puts no side load on the bearing.
What torque specs for the skid, rails, wheels? What color LOC-tight? Thanks
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
specs should be in your service manual and also in the Clymer Shop manual for Yamaha.
terret725
New member
best way i found takes like 20 mins comapried to the 1 to 2 hrs i spent befor is
flip sled on side
lossen transfer rods
put rear wheels in first the front lossen rear wheels if nessasary
then line up front then middle then rear ( flip sled back and forth on its side if nessasay)
10 times easyer then lifting the rear.
i learned this from working as a sled mechanic this year. i can do a track change in a little over an hr on a polaris(which the skis are real easy to get in and out) but could do mine in maybe 30 mins more. i use to spend hours on hours using ratchet straps and pry bars lineing the skid up befor. kickin the skid pulling a total pain in the butt sled on its side is 100 times easyer then lifting the rear.
also have atleast one person there to drop a bolt in when u line it up
flip sled on side
lossen transfer rods
put rear wheels in first the front lossen rear wheels if nessasary
then line up front then middle then rear ( flip sled back and forth on its side if nessasay)
10 times easyer then lifting the rear.
i learned this from working as a sled mechanic this year. i can do a track change in a little over an hr on a polaris(which the skis are real easy to get in and out) but could do mine in maybe 30 mins more. i use to spend hours on hours using ratchet straps and pry bars lineing the skid up befor. kickin the skid pulling a total pain in the butt sled on its side is 100 times easyer then lifting the rear.
also have atleast one person there to drop a bolt in when u line it up