--I know its a repost but no one is really in vintage sleds right now--
Hey guys and gals. I'm new to the forum and new to the Yamaha scene. Alright my first question is about my ski width. My dad use to be a Yamaha man until he bought his Skidoo, and he was telling me about a kit you could buy to widen the skis on older srv's. Where can I find this kit? Now my last question. I made a bracket to lift the tunnel up above the track alittle more. Now i can actually feel the suspension move. So where can i find replacement shocks or performance ones?
Zero
Hey guys and gals. I'm new to the forum and new to the Yamaha scene. Alright my first question is about my ski width. My dad use to be a Yamaha man until he bought his Skidoo, and he was telling me about a kit you could buy to widen the skis on older srv's. Where can I find this kit? Now my last question. I made a bracket to lift the tunnel up above the track alittle more. Now i can actually feel the suspension move. So where can i find replacement shocks or performance ones?
Zero
8vo fan
New member
Some sleds are more upgradeable than others. The SRV has quite a few limits. the way to widen a tss is to more the struts out farther. The SRV mounts the struts through the hood. It would be nearly impossible to widen. Struts from a v-max Should give you a little lift.
Hmm? I was hoping to widen it some. Its very tippy and i'm use to it.
Zero
Zero
i know back in the early 90's bender had widening kits for phazer and exciters but was not aware of a kit for srv, not saying they did not . maybe post the question how to get a hold of them cause i heard they sold the business but not sure. good luck!
I will have to check on that. Do the shock towers even unbolt? Or are they welded on?
Zero
Zero
im not sure but i think it is just 2 pieces of pipe that slips over the existing pipe your struts are mounted to cut and weld deal. i think. my buddy did a phazer and i will ask him today
Well to move them out it looks like I will either have to cut the rail between the belly and the hood or just knock it further back and reshape it. I could also use some alum or some plastic to cover the old holes.
Zero
Zero
by looking at the picture they replace the whole front tube that runs from one side to the other that the struts are hooked to
I see I see. How do they cover the body panels? Are the shocks moved out far enough to sit on the outside of the body buldge?
Zero
Zero
srv540
Member
SRV truts can be widened 2 inches and still stay under the hood, tim bender used to do this on his SRV race sled when he was with AAEN. Or you can mount struts outside of the bellypan and run a SS440 hood.
8vo fan said:
srv540
Member
just need to go to a metal shop to get materials.....this summer I am cutting and rewelding the front end to 42" on my SRV, very easy to do.
You mean two inches per strut? Or all together? To do it im going to have to cut and weld correct?
Zero
Zero
srv540
Member
2 " all together so 1" perside to still stay inside the hood
Hmm maybe I will just stay with the stock width.
Zero
Zero
Vmax540
VIP Member
I have added wide kits to Phazers, Exciters, and V-maxs and firmly believe this is the single biggest improvement to stability, ride, handling, reduced ski lift, and not to mention they look awesome ! I've found the 40" ski stance to be a good all around width for trail riding and trailering. For Phazers Yamaha had rubber fillers on the 40”widened 96 -98 Phazer II’s to fill in the gap between the panel and strut holder.
-You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
-Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison with alignment.
-#2 Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
-I drill 4 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
- Take a dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
-Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
- After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame or any pipe large enough to wrap around the smaller extension and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe this is Necessary to strengthen the longer frame then weld it in place.
- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals.
I have all the materials to add a wide kit for $40.00 pus shipping !
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsc@csonline.net W 814 226 – 1595 7-2 eastern or H 814 354 – 2687 evenings and weekends
-You need to remove the hood, side panels and skis. Then lower the front of the belly pan by drilling out the rivets (to weld underneath of frame cuts).
- Scribe horizontal lines around cross member to insure you get the strut holders realigned also, write down some point to point measurements for reference. Note the center to center distance of the top of strut holders and the bottom of struts and you will see the top distance is ~ ½ “narrower.
-Only cut and weld one side at a time to allow for comparison with alignment.
-#2 Cut a straight line as close to the Inside of frame as possible and away from strut holder this allows more frame left on strut holder and allows better realignment when inserting extensions.
-I drill 4 3/8" holes around C.M. only (not) extensions to allow spot welding thru the C.M. into the extension along, with the welds around the cut.
- Take a dremmel or file and chamfer the inside of the cut frame and outside of extension pipe to allow extension pipe to be driven into the frame. Also, there is a seam on the inside of frame that should be smoothed out.
- Lay sled on its side and use a block of wood to drive extension pipe into frame with a mallet or sledge. Yes, it’s tight…. But, I try to get at least 3” or more inside the frame.
- Measure the (cut off) remaining strut holder frame then add the amount you want to widen and then cut off extension pipe. Align the strut holder and tap onto the extension pipe.
-Tack both sides on then use a straight edge on strut top’s, sides and bottom’s to help alignment. Check all scribe marks, angles, and measurements before completely welding. Note that you can pull the alignment off if you weld too much on one side at once and not the other.
- After welding completely around, take a piece of original frame or any pipe large enough to wrap around the smaller extension and slit it lengthwise, pry it open and install it around the extension pipe this is Necessary to strengthen the longer frame then weld it in place.
- On the V-max 540 I found it necessary to grind out and extend the opening approximately 1” back on the right side of the sled where the tie rod goes thru the bulkhead and out to the strut arm.
-You can either buy longer tie rods or cut and extend your originals.
I have all the materials to add a wide kit for $40.00 pus shipping !
Good luck any question let me know. Chuck Schettler cccsc@csonline.net W 814 226 – 1595 7-2 eastern or H 814 354 – 2687 evenings and weekends
