What do you race guys run for carbides?

GP292Racer

GP292Racer

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Mar 12, 2006
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111
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36
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Well, just finished a weekend of racing. My Yamaha and Sno-Jet can take out any other sled on the straight aways, but I'm getting killed in the corners. A large amount of trail carbide just isn't enough when the 1/2 mile ice oval gets rutted.

What kind of carbide, and how much do you other race guys use?
 
Obviously we run our own carbide on our sleds and it is a good reason as to why we have been doing so well in the past 3 weekends. Ever since we got in this race circuit, we have been selling alot of our own carbide and it is almost coming back to bite us because all of the guys who are running our carbide are the top 3 finishers. We are running 14" on the outside ski and 12" on the inside ski. Our carbide is great for long tracks like the one you are racing on aswell because it is a much harder carbide insert than the other companies are using out there. This picture represents only three weekends worth of racing and many people are absolutely blown away. Each throphy represents one class of racing. Let me know if you have any questions about our carbides. Thanks

 
Bruce and the gang at CB Performance made my carbides now for the past year and 1/2. Done a great job and the carbide inserts really holdup well. Unfortantially for me, its taken this long to finally learn my weight transfer on the SR292. All my handling issues were not to blame on the carbides. The light finally came on and now I see where I've made my mistakes. Looks like I will be ordering up some new bars this summer! I've got sets made in 4”; 6”; 8”; and 10” from the CB guys
All the sanctioning bodies I race with have a 10” max 60 degree rule. But I am also finding that its not in forced an MANY of the guys ahead of me are using either 12” left and 10” right or 14” left and 12” right.
 
I've got 10" on the left an right 60 degree carbides. It's alot about ski pressure. you might have to raise the front of your skid up to get more ski pressure. tighten that limiter strap up or like I did redrill for the front cross member up about an 1 1/2".
 
get yourself a pair of Woddy's "skidoo twin track" racing carbides. 10" of 60 degree carbide will make it turn real good, with enough ski pressure of course. there should be no reason to require any more than 10" of carbide per ski to make your sled turn.
 
Monty, what are the limitations to your carbide under your rules? How far can the insert stick out of the bar and everything? We MAY be making up some sweet Ice racer only carbides for the upcoming year.

The only benefit to running a longer carbide is to be able to have the inside ski find some carbide faster when going around a turn or if your ski is unbalanced in the air and comes down. even though we are running 14" carbide, only ~4" of carbide is in the ice at one time because we bow the ski so that there is more pressure on that section of the carbide. If you are running a flat ski, all of your carbide is going to be in the ice at one time making less pressure on the ice creating your ski not to dig in aswell. Next year should be interesting if we do go through with the racer only carbide.
 
Guess I was wrong about the carbide issue. Somewhere they must have changed the rule again b4 season opener. I gotta start paying more attention:
"Carbides of any length and studs up to 3/8 inch above highest point of lug or cleat are allowed. "
Also looks like there is nothing stating how far below the ski the carbide can hange either. I see where you guys are going with this. Keep me posted
 
Thanks a bunch, I am allowed 5/8" 60 degree carbide. 1 sled runs bogies, so there is not much I can do to raise the track at the front. I have already raised the bogies, but I may go more. On the Sno Jet, I will have to drill higher holes in the front.

If I were to go with CB carbides, could you guys suggest a good amount?
 
As I said and you can also listen to other people too, the more amount of carbide you run does not make you handle any better or dig in better, it offers a quicker reaction to when you feel your track is going to slip from under you and it will act faster. I am not entirely sure how to explain it. A good amount to shoot for generally is 10" to 12". All of the people we have sold carbides to at the track are getting 14" from us but I am not going to say it "performs" any better than a 10" would.
 
Some of the guys I know run 8" on the outside, and 6" on the inside. We run single cylinder sleds, so I guess we don't need quite as much.
 
Have you located the pivot point under your ski yet ??? 1/2 rod under ski find the spot where ski will pivot. Mark the ski have your carbide 1/3 in front of this point 2/3 behind. From there you can try different ratios around this mark. The more carbide in front of the pivot will cause heavy steering ( big arms needed ) but is very effective. Also you can try running a dull ( not super sharp ) carbide on outside ski. This will allow the front to slide if the left ski start to come off the ice.
 
I am running 14" on my enticer lemans sled, only issue I have is everything is bending. Ski saddles are bending, beefed them up, now skis are twisted ect but it turns like crazy.

As for the 73 Gp I ran those for several years I would run 14" if you can find them and balance with the studs in the track. With the track stud we had to raise the tunnel under the motor to stop them from hitting.

With the bogies we ran some without the front set or we raised the bogies up in the tunnel and also heated the springs red hot and flattened the bogies out.

Finding that "balance" is extemely hard on that sled.

Eman
 
The turning point

Not sure if you have ski braces on but you will need them to stop the twist. They mount ahead of the ski saddle bolt to the ski and limit the bending of the ski/springs. If you look back into racing in the late 70 you should see lots of sleds with them on.
 
I have braces on my skis, be very carefull where you put them, mine are just in front of the saddle and when the springs compress the bolt I put above the spring hits the shock and has bent the shocks. Watch were you put the braces. One think I did find with mine is that you need to have new bushing everywhere, any slop gets worse with the additional carbide.

Dennis
 
figured I'd bump this thread and says thanks once again, especially to the guys at CB Performance for their help back in November.
Raced the new setup on the sleds this weekend and it worked out pretty well.
 
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