tukaluk
New member
I am about to stud my 2000 Venture 700, and had a few questions that I can’t seem to find an answer for. My track is 136”x15” with .750” lug. I have a supply 144 of Woody’s .875”inch long - 60 degree carbide traction master studs with Studboy square power plate aluminum backers.
1st – When installing the tunnel protectors – how far do I put them towards the front – right tight to the front? I was going to use the pre-drilled holes that exist in the tunnel (They are about 6” apart). I take it that rivets with washers are ok?
2nd – I guess I have to install front heat exchanger protectors? – I obtained a set (hopefully the right ones) but have no instructions. I have never seen a picture of them installed- and wonder how it’s done. Do I have to remove the whole drive assembly from underneath to drill, or can it be done somehow from the top (then do the Air box and carburetors have to be removed?). Also, does this machine really need Rear heat exchanger protectors?
3rd – The amount of studs for mostly trail riding and a few lake crossings (Woody’s site recommends 108 – but offered no pattern) - Do I really need to put the studs on the outside of the track? I was going to use the Woody’s Long Track 2 template 144 pattern (http://www.woodystraction.com/photos/144-152-single_long.jpg ) – but omitting the 2 outside studs that were to go on every 3rd lug to equal 108. Most people tell me not to bother with the outside ones – mostly because they have seen too many torn up tracks. Does this sound OK?
1st – When installing the tunnel protectors – how far do I put them towards the front – right tight to the front? I was going to use the pre-drilled holes that exist in the tunnel (They are about 6” apart). I take it that rivets with washers are ok?
2nd – I guess I have to install front heat exchanger protectors? – I obtained a set (hopefully the right ones) but have no instructions. I have never seen a picture of them installed- and wonder how it’s done. Do I have to remove the whole drive assembly from underneath to drill, or can it be done somehow from the top (then do the Air box and carburetors have to be removed?). Also, does this machine really need Rear heat exchanger protectors?
3rd – The amount of studs for mostly trail riding and a few lake crossings (Woody’s site recommends 108 – but offered no pattern) - Do I really need to put the studs on the outside of the track? I was going to use the Woody’s Long Track 2 template 144 pattern (http://www.woodystraction.com/photos/144-152-single_long.jpg ) – but omitting the 2 outside studs that were to go on every 3rd lug to equal 108. Most people tell me not to bother with the outside ones – mostly because they have seen too many torn up tracks. Does this sound OK?
SWEDE
New member
Yes, the tunnel protectors just rivet on, put them all the way to the front.The front protectors on my sx-r were riveted on the bottom and tack welded at the top on the front protector.I took mine off when I went to a ripsaw track, I just drilled out the bottom rivets and twisted them a little and the weld snapped.It would seem that you'll have to get at the top to attach those front front protectors, but I am not sure.Maybe someone can chime in on this.There is no rear protector so your good to go there.Yes keeping all studs in the center belt is agood idea and much more durable.You may want more than a 108 studs with a 700, but if you take it easy you should be ok, good call on the template as thats the best way to go.Welcome to the sight, you'll appreciate the wealth of knowledge thats here and the sincerity of the members
tukaluk
New member
Studs are in... But now, what the...
Thanks for Replying – I went ahead and studded the track – Installed the heat exchangers with the rivets and tech screws provided (With Loctite). Had to borrow a torque wrench to tighten the nuts to 180in./lbs. But it’s the tunnel protectors that really got me! I installed them pretty much up to the front – and every thing seemed fine – looked like I had lots of room – even when I put the suspension in and tighten up the track with it raised – was able to move the track pretty freely. However, when I sat on the machine to move it – Man – Did I forget that parking brake again? – Nah, that’s not it – Looked under machine – and right at the front – seems the tunnel protectors are touching the track! So much for the idea of installing them all the way to the front! Now I debating If I should drop the suspension again – crawl over all those studs and chop then at a angle at the front when it seems to be rubbing on the track – or do you think they would quickly wear down? Got 1 last night – before my trip up north. Yes – they still have a bit of snow – Looks like might be doing a fair bit of Lake driving – That’s what da studs were for!!
Thanks for Replying – I went ahead and studded the track – Installed the heat exchangers with the rivets and tech screws provided (With Loctite). Had to borrow a torque wrench to tighten the nuts to 180in./lbs. But it’s the tunnel protectors that really got me! I installed them pretty much up to the front – and every thing seemed fine – looked like I had lots of room – even when I put the suspension in and tighten up the track with it raised – was able to move the track pretty freely. However, when I sat on the machine to move it – Man – Did I forget that parking brake again? – Nah, that’s not it – Looked under machine – and right at the front – seems the tunnel protectors are touching the track! So much for the idea of installing them all the way to the front! Now I debating If I should drop the suspension again – crawl over all those studs and chop then at a angle at the front when it seems to be rubbing on the track – or do you think they would quickly wear down? Got 1 last night – before my trip up north. Yes – they still have a bit of snow – Looks like might be doing a fair bit of Lake driving – That’s what da studs were for!!
SWEDE
New member
I'm not sure what to tell you, the venture must be quite a bit different than my sx-r. I was sharing my experiences with my sled, I think its the same proaction chassis. You should have lots of room in the front, especially with the 3/4" track.Something is definetely wrong. you should get with a local dealer or repair shop and get some help and don't go trying to grind down studs or anything.If you try to run that sled your most likely going to cause some damage.