studs hitting the tunnel!

mountainmaxrider

New member
Joined
Mar 9, 2006
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110
Age
36
Location
makkovik, Labrador
hey

i have a 2001 phazer 500 and this sled don't have tunnel prtectors. i have recently installed a track with 144 studs. when i go fast and hit a few bumps i notice that the track hits against the tunnel! maybe just beacuse the track maybe a little slack. would tightening the track up eliminate the studs from hitting the tunnel? theres like a inch of clearance left between the tunnel and the studs. let me know about this as soon as possible!

thanks
 

It may help but ballooning can still occur and you might have to run it real tight to keep it from hitting. I would simply throw some nylon tunnel protectors in there. It is real easy to do.
 
Yup you may still need tunnel protectors, tighting the track too much
to stop track slap could make for fast slider wear too, keep an eye on them.
 
You're taking a big chance running without tunnel protectors!! Even with a tight track, the track will go slack when the suspension in colapsed. Tunnel protectors are easy to install and are alot cheaper than replacing chewwed up tunnel.
 
Someone mentioned nylon tunnel protectors.
Would a pair of old sliders ( hyfax ) work as tunnel protectors.
Only a question as I have never even rode a sled with studs.
 
There are all kinds of things that would work. Using old hyfax is probrably one of the better ideas if you don't want to buy the actual protectors. All these protectors do is provide a surface for the track lugs to rub against which keeps the studs from making contact with the tunnel (most of the time). Just be sure to put them where they will not contact any studs and will catch full height lugs on the track.

You can get a set of protectors from any mail order house for under $30. I see that you are in Alaska, so understand if that is a bit of a problem for shipping costs or time.
 
ok.....i have tunnel protectors now. just an old pair that was lying around in the shed. they are like an inch wide and an inch tall. who said that they wereonly easy to install? this looks like alot of work to me because you have to take off the 4 rear suspension bolts and take off the seat. now that i looked at this, i may have to take off the gas tank now. i have noticed that the holes for the rivots are already drilled. so is it that hard to take off the gas tank? is it just the 2 nuts at the end? let me know!
 
so just rivot it on as far as the tank? and just leave some unrivoted in the front? if so, hwo much should i leave unrivoted? i was thinking of bending it upwards so it won't buckle down. what do you think? would this bring up when i use the reverse?
 
Yea probly wouldn't hurt to bend it up to help with reverse
maybe use a little heat to bend it.

maybe somone will chime in that's done it i have not but remember
reading about it.

yes just to the tank the rest would be unrivoted then.

or you could pull the tank witchever you like.
 


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