p85 clutch set up?


Some 50 gram weights with an erlandson red primary spring works very well with a shallow helix, i used a 44/36 with GREAT results with a green sec. spring. Top end was phenomenal on my piped sx. I believe the weights were Polaris 10's, or maybe 10A's, whichever ones are the 50 g weights. The other one is a 53 gram and you would have to run a little stiffer primary spring depending on your power output. What are you running for engine/pipes/hp? I may have some of these weights laying around yet as well
 
thanks but i dont need the weights if they are the ones stamped 10, we have a few sets laying around at the shop and i got 2 of the green springs from sleds i have installed clutch kits in.

im runnin a light trail ported viper engine with cpr pipes, head mod, vforce3's
estimated hp around 210.lol. im guessing around 150-155. sled is extended 136". i got the clutch for free from our shop with about 200 miles on it. a sled had electric start installed and you gotta change out the whole clutchs on them poos to do it.
what about shimming them? i remember something about having to shim them because the belts were different widths or something.
oh and the clutch puller? how do i have to mod it to fit in the viper crank?
 
I dont know about shimming them, i never shimmed mine and it worked perfect for thousands of miles until i sold the sled to a buddy of mine, and then somebody thought it was so nice that they STOLE IT! :o| But anyway, I would think you just shim between the spider and the sliding sheave or something until you get the belt clearance right. I'm sure a polaris service manual would tell you exactly how to shim it, how much clearance you should have, and the part numbers for the shims. As for the puller, i used a polaris puller, put it on a lathe and narrowed down the end of it, and then made a 1.5" extension to go in the crank before the puller. The hole is a lot deeper in the yamaha's than the polaris's, so you need an extension to reach the bottom of the hole. Then just use a small magnet to remove the piece from the crank.
 
you have to get the break down tools to shim the spider there are washers behind it.Put a beldt in the primary and measure the side clearance if it's too excessive you will have to adjust it otherwise you will have a harsh engaement and will wear beldt quickly along with a lot of beldt slippage at engagement.
 
Most of the p-85's you will have to take shims out to get the right side clearance as yamaha runs a 1 3/8 inch belt and polaris is 1 7/16. Get the puller that is used for the fugi polaris motors and you have to cut the end of it off for the right length. Also when reshiming mark the clutch sheaves and spider before disasembling so when you put it back together and tighten the spider that the marks are not more than 1/3 of a turn off as for balancing purposes. It may sound difficult but it can be done and in my opinion they work very well. I am currently running one on my srx 1000 with good results.
 
no problem i got access to a spider tool. so shim it till it is just touching the belt? right now its got a bit of slide back and forth when open and is about an 1/8-1/4" from the top when closed. i also got a poo almond/red? i think red. its somewhere close to 165-310
 
well the spring was a almond/blue 150/310 and i didnt have the offset tool to adjust for the 6mm diference in clutch thickness and could tell the belt wasnt aligned. but it ripped to 9000rpms really easy with the 51.3 gram weights. im gonna try a set of 56 or 58 grams saturday.
 
I thought you said you wanted to run 9000 or so on top end? 58 gram weights will put you way below target if that is the case. With that 136" track that is all the more incentive to run a real shallow helix like i was saying before. For some reason the P85 really seemed to like those shallow angles and i could pull killer top end. Can go a little big more aggressive on the angles than i did for a little harder acceleration, but traction will be your weak link.
 
Yamaholic is right I have tuned many polaris and we raced them for a few years.On stockers I like to to run 48-36 50-36-50-34 but on piped stuff or high rpm run 46-34 or close to that range.You will achieve more mph than running big cams such as 52-38 and 50-40 using the polaris clutches.
 
well the sled was overreving with the 51.5 gram weights so i put in 56 grams tonight and will try it tomorrow. i have a 48/40 on the way. so ill take out the 52/36 as soon as i get it. i race 660' and need all the start i can get.
 
If your over reving aleady why are you going from a 52/36 to a 48/40.Also what brand of helixes are you using?
 
well first off im adding about 5 grams of weight, and i only have a 52/36 from reichards performance center, straight 47 yamaha, 51/43 yamaha and i got a 48/40 advantage on the way. so what exactly do you recommend
 
well i got to try the sled tonight for a run and it rips to 92-9300 rpms and sticks there. i was gonna put some 58 gram weights in but figured i would try that tomorrow and see where it goes. i was gunning for 9100 but thats still where i need to be.
 
So how has it worked for you? Much improvement in any specific area? I know it's supposed to be a good clutch and gets a little more power to the ground.
 
yup Pro is right, advant-edge measures there helices completely different than everyone else, they are much more aggressive than the others for a given angle. One thing to remember is to closely monitor your clutch temps throughout all of this clutch testing and tuning. Wouldn't be a bad idea to get an infrared point and shoot thermometer for quick, accurate readings on temps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top