dabear95
New member
I have a 1998 Yamaha Mountain Max 600 Twin (136'' 1.5'' lugs). It's running great, everything is mint against the factory specifications (throttle free play, oil cable, idle, ski's, belt height, etc) except for engagement. The book indicates 4,000-4,200 RPM before it moves out and I am closer to 3,800. I put the sled away for the year but I want to pull it out this summer and go through the idler wheels, hyfax, wear bars, etc...
Clutching
For the clutch what should I look to replace? I'm happy with the stock setup but would be willing to listen to aftermarket suggestions keeping the following in mind. My number one concern is reliability, my performance criteria are:
0-60 or 70 performance
Quick downshifts (if I am going 30-40 and pin it, I want to hit 60-70 just as fast as from a dead stop)
Don't care as much about top speed
If factory parts are used:
1. Should I get the clutch tune up kit (8CS-00000-50-00 about $115)?
2. Does it have everything I need? If not, what else is needed for the primary?
3. For the secondary, is just a new spring needed? Any other parts?
Suspension
4. Are my stock shocks rebuildable? They are super expensive!
5. There are two springs listed in the parts diagram, which one is stock and which is the "big boy" spring?
8CW-47489-00-00 SPRING 1 (K=3.5-5.3)
8CS-47489-00-00 SPRING 1 (K=3.0-5.0)
The second one indicates MM, the other says AP, so I am thinking the 3.5-5.3 is a stiffer spring.
Tools
6. What do you guys recommend for tools? I do not have any snowmobile specific tools, and I will need some to do clutch work and eventually other work. I only want to buy them once! I know what I need, just not sure if I should buy Yamaha tools.
Thanks!
Jason
Clutching
For the clutch what should I look to replace? I'm happy with the stock setup but would be willing to listen to aftermarket suggestions keeping the following in mind. My number one concern is reliability, my performance criteria are:
0-60 or 70 performance
Quick downshifts (if I am going 30-40 and pin it, I want to hit 60-70 just as fast as from a dead stop)
Don't care as much about top speed
If factory parts are used:
1. Should I get the clutch tune up kit (8CS-00000-50-00 about $115)?
2. Does it have everything I need? If not, what else is needed for the primary?
3. For the secondary, is just a new spring needed? Any other parts?
Suspension
4. Are my stock shocks rebuildable? They are super expensive!
5. There are two springs listed in the parts diagram, which one is stock and which is the "big boy" spring?
8CW-47489-00-00 SPRING 1 (K=3.5-5.3)
8CS-47489-00-00 SPRING 1 (K=3.0-5.0)
The second one indicates MM, the other says AP, so I am thinking the 3.5-5.3 is a stiffer spring.
Tools
6. What do you guys recommend for tools? I do not have any snowmobile specific tools, and I will need some to do clutch work and eventually other work. I only want to buy them once! I know what I need, just not sure if I should buy Yamaha tools.
Thanks!
Jason
dabear95
New member
TTT, wrong section?
yamaholic22
Active member
dabear95 said:I have a 1998 Yamaha Mountain Max 600 Twin (136'' 1.5'' lugs). It's running great, everything is mint against the factory specifications (throttle free play, oil cable, idle, ski's, belt height, etc) except for engagement. The book indicates 4,000-4,200 RPM before it moves out and I am closer to 3,800. I put the sled away for the year but I want to pull it out this summer and go through the idler wheels, hyfax, wear bars, etc...
Clutching
For the clutch what should I look to replace? I'm happy with the stock setup but would be willing to listen to aftermarket suggestions keeping the following in mind. My number one concern is reliability, my performance criteria are:
0-60 or 70 performance
Quick downshifts (if I am going 30-40 and pin it, I want to hit 60-70 just as fast as from a dead stop)
Don't care as much about top speed
If factory parts are used:
1. Should I get the clutch tune up kit (8CS-00000-50-00 about $115)?
2. Does it have everything I need? If not, what else is needed for the primary?
3. For the secondary, is just a new spring needed? Any other parts?
Suspension
4. Are my stock shocks rebuildable? They are super expensive!
5. There are two springs listed in the parts diagram, which one is stock and which is the "big boy" spring?
8CW-47489-00-00 SPRING 1 (K=3.5-5.3)
8CS-47489-00-00 SPRING 1 (K=3.0-5.0)
The second one indicates MM, the other says AP, so I am thinking the 3.5-5.3 is a stiffer spring.
Tools
6. What do you guys recommend for tools? I do not have any snowmobile specific tools, and I will need some to do clutch work and eventually other work. I only want to buy them once! I know what I need, just not sure if I should buy Yamaha tools.
Thanks!
Jason
First thing: the factory specs for engagement and shift rpm are often WAY off from where the production sleds end up. For example, SRX's are listed to have an 8500 rpm shift rpm but the early srx's would easily rev over 9000 rpm in stock form, and desperately need clutching modifications. That being said, if your engagement rpm has dropped from what it used to be or it is just too low for what you desire a new primary spring is the first move. I recommend replacing the primary spring every 2,500-3,000 miles on trail sleds, possibly more often on mountain sleds because of harder conditions and higher clutch temps in that style riding. Check the condition of all the bushings, pins, rollers, and weights in your clutch, making sure that all bushings and rollers turn freely, pins aren't worn, and that there aren't flat spots or uneven wearing on the weights. Check the buttons in the secondary for cracks and excessive wear, and check the helix bushing making sure it is not too loose on the secondary clutch slide shaft. Clean the clutches good with hot soapy water and scotchbrite pad, and then dry with compressed air. As for tools to do all of this, get an EPI (erlandson performance inc) primary clutch puller and if you can afford it, get a Sled Pro clutch alignment and center to center tool, they work amazingly. Secondary springs last a VERY long time and as long as it isn't broken it should be fine. Don't know what you have in it for clutching right now, but if you aren't satisfied with it tell me what is in it right now for weights, rivets in the weights, primary spring, rollers, helix, secondary spring, and secondary spring wrap, and also WOT throttle rpm all the way through from a dead stop. Are you happy with the way it backshifts right now? Like i said if you aren't happy with something we can make changes to get you where you want to be depending on what you want and what kind of riding conditions you ride in. Hope this helps you get started!
dabear95
New member
I appreciate your feedback, thanks for your time.
The problem at this point is I do not have a frame of reference when you say to check these items. For example, I do not know what a helix bushing looks like (I can check the parts diagram) and how loose is acceptable...
Therefore I think the best idea may be to just start asking more questions when I begin disassembly and post some pictures if I have to. It would probably be better/cheaper than just replacing parts that may not need replacement.
Thanks again!
Jason
The problem at this point is I do not have a frame of reference when you say to check these items. For example, I do not know what a helix bushing looks like (I can check the parts diagram) and how loose is acceptable...
Therefore I think the best idea may be to just start asking more questions when I begin disassembly and post some pictures if I have to. It would probably be better/cheaper than just replacing parts that may not need replacement.
Thanks again!
Jason
dabear95
New member
Hi everyone, if anyone else has anymore suggestions let me know!
Jason
Jason