broken stud help!!

Concept Carbon

Concept Carbon

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Jan 31, 2006
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Ottawa, ON.
Ok i was removing my header flange off my viper and broke a stud, in cyl 2 bottom right if your facing the front.

there is about 3/8's sticking out and i cant seem to get this little bastard out. #$%&*

Its been soaking in mouse milk(crazzy pentitrating oil) for 2 days now, put a propane torch on it an dtryed with vise grips and nothing, went out today and bout one of those stud extracter tools and i cant get it in to remove the stud the stud above it is in the way.

I dont want to have to pull the cyl to get this thing out but I may have to, any sugustions????

If i pull the cyl, do i have to replace the gaskets, and is there any thing to watch for???
 

shocking it with a hammer is ONE WAY of trying to get it loose...Dissimiliar metals and galvanic reactions are working against you... a ACETYLENE torch will give you more heat than propane,,,but you have to be really careful with that!!! You could drill it out and heli.coil a new set of threads,,,but,,,, another REALLY HARD thing to do!!! Best thing is to take it to a machine shop and the machinist will fix it for you!!! PERSONALLY, I ALWAYS REPLACE GASKETS,,, but there are a bunch of guys who REUSE GASKETS!!!! I would NEVER reuse a gasket ( I even replace O RINGS!!!!)
 
well i think i may have to take the cyl out and weld a nut onto the broken stud, or if that dosnt work dril the center of the stud out, and use a easy out.

its just pita to work on it when its on the sled cant get a good grip with the vise grips.
 
welding a nut on there is your best bet. too bad there isn't room to do it in place. i had a exhaust stud on my truck dissapear and the only way to get it out was to weld a nut on what was left.
 
I've been around and around with this problem with aluminum many times. It is usually a real SOB. If the head of the bolt broke off you won't get it out with an easy out or welding a nut to it. I suggest you take the jug off. It will make it a lot easier to work on and minimize further damage. Try heating it carefully so you don't melt it. Use vise grips clamped very tight on the part sticking out. Try to slowly twist the bolt in and out to work it loose. Make sure the grips don't slip on what's left of the bolt. If you are lucky it will come out. If not, you will have to drill it out. File or grind the end flat. Center punch it as perfectly as possible to the middle. Start with a small drill bit and go slow to make sure the hole is perfectly centered. Once through the bolt, go to a larger bit. Try to keep the hole perfectly centered. Drill it out as close to completely out as you can without damaging the jug. Once real close to the threads in the jug, use a small punch from the side to start breaking what's left of the bolt out of the aluminum threads. Try to get it to peel out of the aluminum. You can have some damage to the threads and still make it work. Once done you will need to run a tap into the hole to clean the threads up and get the white powdery junk out of the hole.
It can be done, just be careful and go slow.
If you want to avoid this for the future, use stainless steel hardware.

Good luck
 
stainless will still do this! dissimilar metals is the problem. it creates corrosion i deal with corrosion in boats every day. in the boating world we use sacrifical anodes to try to control the corrosion but it still happens. the best bet is to coat the new stud and create a barrier between the aluminum and the steel.
 
did you get it out? I have never tried it on aluminum, but on rusted steel I have used heating the bolt and then touching it with some wax. Somehow the was works its way into the threads. Worth a try.....
 
its called galvanic reaction!!! THE HIGHER the carbon (the better the grade) the LESS CHANCE of an galvanic reaction or CORROSION (as you like to call it)... The SACRIFICIAL ANODE thread I posted a WHILE AGO and apparently NOBODY payed any interest to that!!!!! ALUMINUM/brass,,, aluminum/steel will create PROBLEMS unless you can control the oxidation!!! IAHACKER is correct when he says about STAINLESS hardware.. Although NOT IMPERVIOUS to corrosion or OXIDATION,,, STAiNLESS has a MUCH HIGHER tensile strength than your average METRIC YAMAHA bolt!!!! Yamaha and THE WHOLE COUNTRY OF JAPAN has been making SUBSTANDARD steel since 1973/1974 When the BIG STEEL problems hit AMERICA!!!! Don't you remember the 75,76,77 OLDSMOBILE Delta 88's????? They used JAPANESE steel for sheetmetal fenders and quarter panels and they were ROTTING OUT AND FALLING OFF in 5 or 6 years!!!! (at least here in Chicago they were).. Japan has NEVER BEEN A COMPETENT supporter of STEEL or even HIGH CARBON STEEL for that matter.. You could buy METRIC HARDWARE made in AMERICA with AMERICAN STEEL and SEE THE DIFFERENCE in only a YEAR on your snowmobile!!! SACRIFICIAL ANODES are a MUST on a snowmobile!!! They are also a MUST on a BOAT MOTOR!!!! ALTHOUGH (most of the time, never submerged),,, nevertheless,,, sacrificial anodes are EXTREMELY BENEFICIAL to your WHOLE SLED!!! How do I go about geting a sacrificial anode for my sled???? You may ask????? Its called FITCH fuel catalyst... you can throw it right into your fuel systemz!!! You can also go to the boat dealer and get one from an OUBOARD (like a 15hp Johnson) (J15redg) (model#) and BOLT it right to WHATEVER ALUMINUM you want to!!! one for the motor nd one for the tunnel!!! MAKE SURE you have a good connection and KEEP IT CLEAN with a WIRE TOOTHBRUSH!!!!
 
ok this is gotten way :offtopic: ,

im gonna try one more time with heat and vise grips, the penitrating oil im using is heat resistent dosnt burn with the torch. if not i will remove the cyl and drill it out at work im not worried about drilling it out as its what i do for a living.

wish me luck
 
Sometimes weldig a washed to the stud and a nut to the washer works better if the studs does not stick thourgh the nut. Otherwise its hard to get the weld down into the nut.
 
i will just tig weld a 1/4" 20 nut to it tommorrow its a little bit bigger and will slip over the stud.

but if the stud snaped from loosening it it will prob break again. at least i will be able to put heat on it.

Took the cyl out tonight will do it tommorrow at work, thanks for all the help everyone, wish i would of just taken the cyl out in the first place only takes like 10min, i think im gona re ring while its apart.
 
this has turned into a major PITA f**K, so i spent about 2hrs heating it up last friday with a torch till it was glowing, tryed heating the casting and cooling the stuc and vice versa, and nothing wouldn even budge so welded a nut to the stud and it just broke again on monday after soaking the cyl all weekend in penitrating oil. so today drilled the stud out for a 5/32 Snap On easyout and guess what the easy out snapped off inside flush(should off used a 3/16 or just drilled and re tapped or used a helicoil), so now im ****ed burnt 17 colbalt drill bits trying to drill this mother fffrrr out. welded 6 nuts to the broken easy out and they just brak off.

so what are my options.

-maybe mill out the stud where at the threads. and put a 5/16 stud inplace.
-or weld a smaller stud to the broken stud.
-buy a new cyl
-or just leave it broken.


im going crazzy any sugestions
-or weld a
 
You now have only one option: Someone who is real good with a cutting torch. You can not drill out broken bits or broken easy out. Seen many guys try it and it don't work. This is why I didn't suggest you try an easy out or weld a nut to the stud. These tactics only work on mildly stuck hardware. As I said, the only choice you have left is a cutting torch. The easy out and the remainder of the stud can be blown out by someone who knows how to do it and still save the threads. I have done it successfully many times. Or, take it to a machine shop and see if they have some other trick for this.

BTY...stainless bolts do not stop the corrosion or the reaction between the metals. However, they won't corrode like a mild steel bolt and won't stick as bad in the aluminum. It's kind of like using brass nuts on your car's exhaust pipe connection. The studs still rust but, the nuts don't rust to them. I've never had a stainless steel bolt break off in aluminum. This is from nearly 30 years of experience of working in food plants where the clean up knuckheads spray hot water and cleaning chemical on anything they see.
If you put oil or anti seize on them, they will vibrate loose and fall out.

Good luck and sorry for your troubles.
 
i will see if my boss can torch it out, he is a about th ebest metal worker ive seen he and is a blacksmith on the side.

what about heating it out anough to aneal the easy out so its soft again.

thanks fo rthe help, thank god the snow is gone.

if possible i will install a new steel stud but i will install with NOX, its nasty yellow shit, or zinc chromate.
 
Machine shop

How about EDM? I'm sure it will work. Bring that cylinder to a machine shop and have someone qualified give you the answer your looking for. I always use Never Seize on exhaust bolts with lock washers with no problems.
 
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