sxtheviper
Member
Hello!
As some of you know, I extended my sxr 700 from 121 to 136. I'am really
happy with the sled, but it's one thing I want to improve.
The thing is: When the sled get stuck in the snow, you try to pull it
out and you use a little trottle to help getting it out. Then it's like the
primary clutch don't add enough force on the belt, because the belt is just
slipping in the primary clutch. It's really irritating sometimes.
I guess you should be able to hold your hands on the clutches after
riding the sled for a while?
Well, I can't do it
They are getting really hot. Especially the primary
clutch.
I got Turk's setup on this sled:
51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip,
2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 2 layers removed from head
gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains. 14.5 mm rollers.
Also changed the stock secondary for a Team roller.
I went from a 121 1.25 Fullblock to a 136 1.5 Ripsaw.
The sled has stock 9 tooth drivers.
Other than this the sled works great! Really crisp and quick sled.
Since I just changed the track without touching the gearing/clutching, I guess
the problem is here?
I got a 70L and 68L chain, 20, 21, 22, 39 and 40 gear and I want to try to change
the gearing as a first move.
My gearing is now 22/40. Gear ratio: 1.81.
I figured I could go with one of these setups:
Gears/Gear ratio
20 39 - 1,95
20 40 - 2
21 39 - 1,85
21 40 - 1,90
22 39 - 1,77
22 40 - 1,81
Any suggestions on what the problem could be and what gear ratio I should try?
I would think a place around 1.95 - 2 would be good, or?
A picture of the sled as it is now. Still need hooks and the blue mtn.max plastic covers for the hoses.
Thanks
Simon.
As some of you know, I extended my sxr 700 from 121 to 136. I'am really
happy with the sled, but it's one thing I want to improve.
The thing is: When the sled get stuck in the snow, you try to pull it
out and you use a little trottle to help getting it out. Then it's like the
primary clutch don't add enough force on the belt, because the belt is just
slipping in the primary clutch. It's really irritating sometimes.
I guess you should be able to hold your hands on the clutches after
riding the sled for a while?
Well, I can't do it
They are getting really hot. Especially the primary clutch.
I got Turk's setup on this sled:
51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip,
2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 2 layers removed from head
gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains. 14.5 mm rollers.
Also changed the stock secondary for a Team roller.
I went from a 121 1.25 Fullblock to a 136 1.5 Ripsaw.
The sled has stock 9 tooth drivers.
Other than this the sled works great! Really crisp and quick sled.
Since I just changed the track without touching the gearing/clutching, I guess
the problem is here?
I got a 70L and 68L chain, 20, 21, 22, 39 and 40 gear and I want to try to change
the gearing as a first move.
My gearing is now 22/40. Gear ratio: 1.81.
I figured I could go with one of these setups:
Gears/Gear ratio
20 39 - 1,95
20 40 - 2
21 39 - 1,85
21 40 - 1,90
22 39 - 1,77
22 40 - 1,81
Any suggestions on what the problem could be and what gear ratio I should try?
I would think a place around 1.95 - 2 would be good, or?
A picture of the sled as it is now. Still need hooks and the blue mtn.max plastic covers for the hoses.
Thanks
Simon.
What are your rpm,s at wide open throttle? You should be 83-8600 rpm. Your clutches get hot after a wide open throttle run no matter how good your clutching is; especially in deep snow.
Is your secondary sticking open?
You lost me
I got Turk's setup on this sled:
51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip,
2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 2 layers removed from head
gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains. 14.5 mm rollers.
Also changed the stock secondary for a Team roller.
So does this mean you have a 51-43 or a team roller secondary.
I got Turk's setup on this sled:
51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip,
2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 2 layers removed from head
gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains. 14.5 mm rollers.
Also changed the stock secondary for a Team roller.
So does this mean you have a 51-43 or a team roller secondary.
I guarnte the beldt is sucked down in the secondary
sxtheviper
Member
Turk said:
Hi Turk!
I'am not sure about the rpm's, but I will check on them later today and let you know. I'am pretty sure they are close to 9000, but will get the correct numbers soon.
BBlueSRX said:
Hello BBlueSRX!
What do you mean? Do you mean while driving or how the belt lies in the secondary after the sled has stopped moving?
The belt lies either equal or a little above the clutch-disc's in a horizontal level(If you know what I mean.) after the sled has stopped moving.
pro116 said:
Oops
Sorry about that. I got a team roller secondary. My mistake.pro116 said:
You mean the same as BBlueSRX?
9k rpm,s is wayyy too high & thats why the belt is slipping. Your helix is really shallow & your gonna need more weight in the primary. Change tip to a 4.5 gram & try a new belt. That secondary changed everything & you may not be able to load those weights enuff to get proper rpm,s. You should have checked the angles on that helix before you bought it.
sxtheviper
Member
I crossed the flu and took a quick ride in the fields to test the rpm's.
Tried in 25-35cm powder and on a hard track with the same result, 8900 - 9000 rpm at WOT. It went really quickly up to about 8500, after that it went a little slower up to 8900 - 9000 and stayed there.
How can I check out what helix the team roller secondary got?
I will have to order rivets and belt from US, since the local yamaha dealer has closed. The new dealer will start up in May.
Do you think the stock secondary is better than the team roller?
I regret that I sold my stock secondary now.
What do you think about the gearing? My friend got a 136" sxr 700 00' and he got 20 - 39. gear ratio at 1.95. Mine is 22 - 40. gear ratio 1.81. He doesn't have the same problem as I'am. All I can remember of his setup is: 8DF - 00 weights (don't know rivets), primary spring Y-R/P(Red or Pink)-Y.
And it seems like the belt is slipping much easier in the primary now, than it did when the sled was 121.
Thanks
Simon.
Tried in 25-35cm powder and on a hard track with the same result, 8900 - 9000 rpm at WOT. It went really quickly up to about 8500, after that it went a little slower up to 8900 - 9000 and stayed there.
How can I check out what helix the team roller secondary got?
I will have to order rivets and belt from US, since the local yamaha dealer has closed. The new dealer will start up in May.
Do you think the stock secondary is better than the team roller?
I regret that I sold my stock secondary now.
What do you think about the gearing? My friend got a 136" sxr 700 00' and he got 20 - 39. gear ratio at 1.95. Mine is 22 - 40. gear ratio 1.81. He doesn't have the same problem as I'am. All I can remember of his setup is: 8DF - 00 weights (don't know rivets), primary spring Y-R/P(Red or Pink)-Y.
And it seems like the belt is slipping much easier in the primary now, than it did when the sled was 121.
Thanks
Simon.
You went to a more shallow helix & slowed the upshift of the secondary. You must now add weight to the primary to overcome the slower shift of your team clutch. The only way to fix what u did is to add more weight to the primary. Your going to need a 4.5 gram in tip & you may even need to remove the inside rivet & peen over a 1 gram washer over a new 4.5 gram rivet. You should allways check what exactly you are buying 1st because that roller changed everything in your clutching. it is not neccesarily a bad thing but it will take some changes to get everything dialed back in.
sxtheviper
Member
Aaha, I see.
I mainly bought the team roller because it was used on the sled that I bought the gearing and the primary clutch(Including:weights/rollers and spring.) from.
At first I thought this was because of the 136" track I added, because it was really great with the 121 track. But maybe I didn't notice it that easy with the shorter track.
Does Rich sell rivets?
So my moves would be: change from 3,1g to 4,5g in tip, and maybe 4,5+1g in the inner.
Anything more? should I just leave the gearing like it is?
So that setup I got in my primary/chaincase is based on a stock secondary with the 51/43 Helix? Right?
I don't know really much about a team roller. but how can you tell what type of helix you got in it? Could this be changed for something that suppose to work with my setup?
Simon.
I mainly bought the team roller because it was used on the sled that I bought the gearing and the primary clutch(Including:weights/rollers and spring.) from.
At first I thought this was because of the 136" track I added, because it was really great with the 121 track. But maybe I didn't notice it that easy with the shorter track.
Does Rich sell rivets?
So my moves would be: change from 3,1g to 4,5g in tip, and maybe 4,5+1g in the inner.
Anything more? should I just leave the gearing like it is?
So that setup I got in my primary/chaincase is based on a stock secondary with the 51/43 Helix? Right?
I don't know really much about a team roller. but how can you tell what type of helix you got in it? Could this be changed for something that suppose to work with my setup?
Simon.
You will be fine after just adding more mass to the primary. I don,t know if he sells rivets but u need some.
SWEDE
New member
Get them from Port Yamaha, they are advertisers on here and excellent to deal with, you name it they probably have it.
sxtheviper
Member
Turk said:
Ok, I will do it. Thanks for helping me out on this, really appreciate it.
I will make a reply on the result.
SWEDE said:
Hi SWEDE!
Thanks! I will e-mail them.
I visited their website and they got a lot of parts.
Do you know if they ship parts to Norway?
Simon.
SWEDE
New member
I'm not sure, but would think they'll do everything they can to help you out.They have always got me what I needed in a very timely manner. Josh