Primary Clutch Spider Removal--Need HELP!

snoden700viper

snoden700viper

Member
Joined
May 18, 2003
Messages
140
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
I need to replace the sliders in the primary (driven) clutch. Their may be bushings too that need replaced but, have to get the spider off first to see.
This clutch has 12,000+ miles on it. The sliders were replaced once @ 6,000 miles. They have a good amount of play (side to side) so it's time to replace the worn parts. It has new rollers, weights and primary spring with about 300 miles on them so once I replace the other worn parts it will be good to go.

My dealer didn't have time to remove the spider for me so he offered to let me take the tool(s) home and do it myself. Well never having done it before it's alot easier said than done. I have the base firmly attached to my work bench as required. I have immersed the clutch in 200*F water as the service manual stats but still can't get the spider to budge.

So what I'm looking for are tips from anyone that has done this.

Thanks as always in advance for any advice or help!

Snoden
 

I just removed mine for the same reason(replace the slides) i used a little
heat, and it broke right loose( clock wise)..hot water is never enough...

there is lock tight on the threads you have to over come...make sure
you put it back on the threads too..
 
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Thanks for the quick reply daman. Where on the clutch are you applying heat? I thought the threads were left handed...lol. Clockwise to remove and counter to tighten? Will medium strength thread locker be OK to use? The service manual points out the top 1/4" of the threads only for loc-tight.
 
Right at the base of the threads on the back side, just a little is all i needed, sorry you need to turn it clockwise to spin it off it off.

i used hight strength but what you have should work fine,,do it like
the manual say's yes..
 
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the clutch is balanced so make sure you mark the sheaves so you get them lined back up. i use a file so the mark stays there, then you can tell if it has moved(if locktited, they never do)

heat up the inside of the spider where it goes on to the crank with a propane torch.

clean all the old locktite out with a pick from the threads

you only need locktite on the top two threads

the locktite is only there so the sheaves dont overtighten and change the balance, it is not there to keep the sheaves from loosening.

in the past i have assembled them with no locktite for testing different neutral settings, they never moved even with no loctite.

use the slide update kit for the rx1 sleds when you do the slides, they always keep in contact and dont let dust under the slides., they go on the unloaded side.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
use the slide update kit for the rx1 sleds when you do the slides, they always keep in contact and dont let dust under the slides., they go on the unloaded side.
Click to expand...
So get slids for a rx1?? are they a little wider(to fit tighter)???????
 
no, they are made with a grove cut in them to accept an o ring. this keeps a little tension on the unloaded side of the spider so there is never a gap to collect dust in. it also fixes the clutch rattle on the four strokes. this was its primary design.
 
if you look up a clutch for a new apex it will be in there, they were sold before as an update so they were not on the fich for any older sleds.
 
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